Low angle planes

[Dazzy]

It’s regarding low angle jack and jointer planes. Having not really used one but read so much about them, I was wondering if I was to purchase one what one would be a good choice to make.
I have been looking at the lie-Nielsen range and the Veritas and not totally sure what would be the right one, I have a Lie-Nielsen No: 5 ½ and love it to bits, just that the Lie-Nielsen’s Low angle jack plane is a little shorter than the No: 5 ½ so would lighter making it graceless to use, so I have been looking at the low angle jointer but think that they might be a little too long and even heavy. I know that using a plane is a personal choice like most tools, I would be very grateful for you opinion on this matter.

 

[Smudger]

I was given a LN LA Jack as part of my retirement present a couple of weeks ago. I've only used it for some bits and pieces like cleaning up edges (and I haven't even honed it yet) and it's a cracker. It just feels right, and handles very well. It isn't, for me, too light and I use a Record 4½ regularly.
I suggest you try one.

The reason I was given it is that some time ago my Wood Guru Andy England gave me a comparative planing lesson using a well fettled Record 05, a Norris and a LN 62. The Norris and the LN came out about equal (but they didn't collect enough to buy me a Norris...)

 

[MarcW]

Dazzy,

Why go for another jack plane - same length, if you can have a jointer or a smoother or...

There is difference between a #5 1/2 and a LA Jack. First bench plane versus low angle plane implying different frog angles - 45° to 12°, then handling. Adjusting the iron on depth and laterally is awkward with a low angle if you are used to work with a bench plane. Installing the iron is easier though.

Now the width between a #5 1/2 and a low angle jack which is the same on the #5 is more a thing of practice better habits. A narrow iron is easier to push, a wider iron can be usefulf on large stock, though...

First thing I'd do is thinking of the work to be done. Jointing stock longer than half a meter is better done with a jointer. Smoothing is well done with the LA Jack, lighter than the #5 1/2, but then why not thinking of a #4?

I'm making furniture - a sofa table at the moment - and if I had a #5 1/2
and had to choose a second plane, it would be a jointer.

 

[bobscarle]

Dazzy

I have an LN 62 and to be honest I don't like it that much. Let me explain that a little. The plane is exceptionally well made, has a great blade and performs wonderfully. The problem is the way it feels in the hand. I prefer to use my Clifton number 4 as this just feels right.

What I would say is that if you can get to try one (if you are somewhere near me you are welcome to try mine) and see if it suits. Its a lot of money to spend just to leave it in the drawer.

Bob

 

[woodbloke]

I've got the LV LA jack and it takes some getting used to, but once the odd handle configuration is mastered it's a fantastic plane, so good in fact that it's the first one I reach for under the bench. Equally good btw is the BU smoother and the long jointer, in fact I've got all three not that I'm one of those collector type people you understand...it's just all the other ones under the bench don't get used much now - Rob

 

[newt]

LV LA Jack great plane and it is used more than any other of my planes.

 

[Anonymous]

Dazzy

I have loads of LN planes and prefer them to all of the other other planes manufacturers I have tried (LV, Clifton, Record, Stanley), except for their LA planes. For those, I find Veritas superior.

I have owned a couple of LN LA planes (sold one) and three LV LA planes (sold one).

 

[Dazzy]

Thanks so far for all your advice to date. The true reason for contemplating a LA plane is for figure / difficult woods and end grain. Just that i keep reading that the LA Jack or Jointer planes would be the best type of plane for this type of work. Would a LA plane do a far better job on this type of wood or would a LN No: 5 1/2 do the work just as good as the LA plane? I just don't want to spend money on a plane that I will only use every so often.

 

[woodbloke]

I think you'll find that the LA jack will cope far better than a standard BU plane on end grain (mine does anyway) but as I said earlier, once you get used to it, it will do almost anything and will become your 'plane of choice' - Rob

 

[Paul Chapman]

While convention has it that bevel-up planes cope better with end grain, in my experience that is not always the case and it's worth trying out different planes to see how you get on with them.

I've been planing some end grain oak today. It was made up of three piece of oak laminated together, which was too thick to plane on the shooting board (which is how I would normally have done it). I had to plane it free-hand, so what I did was to mark the exact length with a marking knife then chisel a 'V' groove up to the marked line.

When sawn off, the channel that I'd chiseled gave me a surface to plane to. I planed the end grain with my Clifton #3, which is a bevel-down plane, with a very finely set mouth

I did try my Veritas low angle block plane, which is bevel-up, but found that the Clifton #3 worked better for this job.

I think it's very hard to generalise and each job is different. I would add that I don't have any bevel-up planes except the block.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Karl]

Would a LA plane do a far better job on this type of wood or would a LN No: 5 1/2 do the work just as good as the LA plane? I just don't want to spend money on a plane that I will only use every so often.

Personally, i've always found a standard bevel down plane to be just as good at end grain planing as a LA BU plane. I have also used a HNT Gordon plane (with 60deg bedding angle) on end grain, with superb results. I think the main factor in planing end grain is the sharpness of the blade.

For surface planing, have you tried a back bevel on your 5 1/2 blade? This gives really good results in difficult woods.

Your last comment made me . I've been there (and probably still am!). It's so tempting to think "oh, i'll try that one, and that one, and maybe one of those". I honestly believe that, in terms of bench planes, there is no need for more than two - a Jointer and a Smoother (or Jack in my case).

HTH.

Cheers

Karl

 

[woodbloke]

Karl wrote:

I honestly believe that, in terms of bench planes, there is no need for more than two - a Jointer and a Smoother (or Jack in my case).

Agree...but don't you just love the 'Slope' :x though... - Rob

 

[bugbear]

...so what I did was to mark the exact length with a marking knife then chisel a 'V' groove up to the marked line.

Dear $DEITY, I wouldn't like to argue with the marking knife that cut 1/4" in oak!

I did try my Veritas low angle block plane, which is bevel-up, but found that the Clifton #3 worked better for this job.

I suspect that's down to the superior ease of handling (and thus application) of the #3, more than the cutting action per se. Which doesn't mean it didn't happen of course.

It would also depend on the bevel angle of the LV - it might not (in fact) have a low EP.

BugBear

 

[Karl]

Agree...but don't you just love the 'Slope' :x though... - Rob

:lol:

When I first started perusing the delights of this site I thought you were a bunch of weirdo's, always talking about The Slope. 12 months later, and my eyes are wide open.......... :lol:

Cheers

Karl