Lovely old Walker Turner band saw

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I've bought a lovely old Walker Turner band saw, the 14" model and would love some advice about how best to dismantle it when I go and collect it. I don't want to damage it, but there are only 2 of us, and it needs to fit into the SUV.

What tools should I take with me, and what do I need to know and avoid?

Many thanks
 
I've bought a lovely old Walker Turner band saw, the 14" model and would love some advice about how best to dismantle it when I go and collect it. I don't want to damage it, but there are only 2 of us, and it needs to fit into the SUV.

What tools should I take with me, and what do I need to know and avoid?

Many thanks
My standard tool list for collecting a bigger older tool on my own. Imperial and metric spanner, socket and allen key sets. Flat head, phillips and posi drive screw drivers. Electrical screw driver. Pliars (regular and needle nose), mole grips, and hammer (hope you don't have to use them). Drill and metal drill bits (just in case). Impact driver.
 
My standard tool list for collecting a bigger older tool on my own. Imperial and metric spanner, socket and allen key sets. Flat head, phillips and posi drive screw drivers. Electrical screw driver. Pliars (regular and needle nose), mole grips, and hammer (hope you don't have to use them). Drill and metal drill bits (just in case). Impact driver.
Thank you very much!
 
Take the table off beforehand, trunnions can break on most saws, not to mention the cast iron table with the big slot in it,
and bring some carpet or lots of cardboard or whatever padding you can get your hands on.
Might be helpful to have some short bits to get your hands under without getting fingers pinched.

Don't forget the fence (if it exists) on the way back.!
,
large-used-walker-turner-metal-band-saw.jpg
 
Are those smaller vintage saws worth having?
How much would one expect to pay for one??
 
Take the table off beforehand, trunnions can break on most saws, not to mention the cast iron table with the big slot in it,
and bring some carpet or lots of cardboard or whatever padding you can get your hands on.
Might be helpful to have some short bits to get your hands under without getting fingers pinched.

Don't forget the fence (if it exists) on the way back.!
, View attachment 154631
Thank you very much indeed!
 
Just remove the legs/stand, I got a RP350 into my estate car that way, can't think yours will be any bigger. So just a socket set and spanners, or if you well off two sockets sets. 🤣

For reference the RP 350 is a 14" bandsaw, without the stand should fit into the back of your SUV with the rear seats down without dismantling the forth bridge.
 
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Also, if your phone has "record" take spoken notes ( like a pathologist would ) as you dismantle . Take a roll of zip lock baggies ( and a marker pen to mark on the outside what is in them ) and a couple ( or more if they'll stack inside each other ) of plastic bowls ( the kind that you'd use for washing up, make sure not to take SWMBO's "best" ones .And a roll of paper towels and some swarfega.A few drops of brake fluid is good for freeing stuck nuts and bolts etc.If there is power available, take a soldering iron and an extension cable, and small and large mole grips.And of course duct tape, and some "clicky straps". "How to keep your Volkswagen alive" was a guide to life, long before zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance, and the illustrations in it are gorgeous. Nice find :)
 
Tip for taking things apart. Take photos with your phone as you go to help get things back together again. Especially the electrics.
Regards
John
Especially so if it's a DIY get'r done job regarding what I'm guessing is an American machine
which would have needed a motor swap to run on our 50hz supply.


Not as friendly a design as the modern steel framed saws, in regards to transportation for multiple reasons, for the Joe Soap without lifting equipment + in a car with only a socket set and adjustable spanner.

I haven't looked to see if this machine was heavy or not, pretty popular so guessing not much more than modern machines, but if by chance it might be, might as well post since it may be useful to someone if doing so single handed, should friend not be available.

(I'd have a google inputting OWWM, old wood working machinery that is,
a popular forum and likely most prolific in regards to WT bandsaw threads, wot you won't have to pay for)

to see if it's best to do the same as with modern saws below?

i.e no tallest point to tip the machine onto the column,
and more importantly, to lay the machine down thereafter...
as to stop chance of rolling when near or at horizontal, one needs to keep the widest point
(the base/floor of chassis) in contact with the ground/vehicle bed, 100% of the time or helper at hand instead, whats aware of what can happen.

Having a chok somewhere in the middle will encourage a fulcrum effect thus lifting the
widest points (the chassis floor) which can cause a roll,
so if needing to do so, best to approach with chok from as far away as you can from it..
i.e somewhere around the top hinges on the machine.

That's all really for larger machines, but some of it might ring true in regards to this one.
Good luck

Tom
 
Take the table off, wrap it in something like an old piece of carpet. Couple of suitable lengths of 4x2 to lay against the load deck of the vehicle, then just lay it on its side, whichever side has less sticking out, or less stuff that might get damaged and so needs to be removed, and slide it up the boards and in. Probably a good idea to put some ply or similar on the boot floor as well. Have moved loads of similar kit in a Cherokee Jeep without any issues.
 
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