Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
2M hole for lamp standards.
Any particular recommendations or ones to avoid?
Any particular recommendations or ones to avoid?
long hole boring kit recommendations
- Thread starter Jacob
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transatlantic
Boom!
I wouldn't go with the Record.
If I was to buy again, I'd go with the Axminster one
If I was to buy again, I'd go with the Axminster one
JandK
Established Member
+1 for the axminster longhole boring kit, works very well.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
What are the essentials? Is it just the long auger and the hollow tail stock centre bit? Seems to be lots of other stuff to consider.
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
As you will often drill the hole from both ends, you would also need a drive centre with appropriate centre pin too.
I have some surplus augers if you're looking for second hand.
I have some surplus augers if you're looking for second hand.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
yes please let me know what you have. Not sure what I want yet though.
Cooper
Established Member
With the boring kits what's the technique to stop the hole from wandering off centre? Are the augers much stiffer than long bits? I tried making slide whistles a while ago and had real difficulty achieving a straight barrel, they were only about 20cm long. I tried boring all the way from one end and also coming from both. I started the holes with a centre drill bit and then an ordinay length twist bit and only for the beepest part used the long bits. I held the work in my chuck and it seemed to stay on centre but I didn't have a hollow centre. I gave up after making only half a dozen as the action wasn't smooth enough to play a tune easily.
PhilipL
Established Member
In engineering a long drill only has one cutting side. Stops the drill moving back and forward and going off center. Do woodworking drills use the same technique?
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Most of them are shell augers, though I use one made from a standard 8mm hss drill bit brazed to a long piece of mild steel. It is a straightforward butt joint but they are better made with a tenon turned on the hss and a mortice in the bar if you have the facilities. Shell augers don't tend to sharpen very well or easily. The usual practice is to drill from both ends and hope the holes meet - on occasion they don't - on a 30" piece I've had them miss by an inch. Any holes are drilled before the turning is done, 1/ because the hole then is guaranteed to be on centre, and 2/ you don't waste your time turning a piece that gets ditched anyway.
Richard_C
Established Member
I wish I had read this before I made my first table lamp last week! Only about 30cm, Yew.
I had to hand a not very good drill bit extender which always wobbles and realised if I were to drill from both ends the chance of meeting was remote - or was it? I started from the bottom with a 40mm forstner as far as I could, followed by a 16mm spade bit with the extender until I was a drill but length from the end. Then turned it round and the 40mm hole mounted nicely on the pin jaws of my chuck. Then I went from the top with a 10mm hole that at least started in the centre: 10mm meets 16mm, so they met, not centrally but good enough to get the cable through and nobody sees the inside.
But reading this I now know of the existence of long augers and hollow centres (the middle can be knocked out of the live center that came with my lathe, must investigate further)
This forum is a wonderful place. Easier next time
I had to hand a not very good drill bit extender which always wobbles and realised if I were to drill from both ends the chance of meeting was remote - or was it? I started from the bottom with a 40mm forstner as far as I could, followed by a 16mm spade bit with the extender until I was a drill but length from the end. Then turned it round and the 40mm hole mounted nicely on the pin jaws of my chuck. Then I went from the top with a 10mm hole that at least started in the centre: 10mm meets 16mm, so they met, not centrally but good enough to get the cable through and nobody sees the inside.
But reading this I now know of the existence of long augers and hollow centres (the middle can be knocked out of the live center that came with my lathe, must investigate further)
This forum is a wonderful place. Easier next time
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
If you use a centre like this one, you can bore the hole from both ends and use the pin to centre the drive when reversing the piece. The four prong drive can be used as a counterbore making it much easier to line up the bored hole from the side for the flex (and it puts a more gentle bend in the flex) - slightly off line doesn't matter. You can start the side hole from quite close to the base sloping slightly upwards which makes the flex lie nicely flat to the table or shelf the lamp is used on.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-evolution-series-counterbore-drive-kit-2mt-717545
Incidentally, I prefer a 3/8" one.
https://www.axminstertools.com/axminster-evolution-series-counterbore-drive-kit-2mt-717545
Incidentally, I prefer a 3/8" one.
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
I've taken a gamble on this one. WOODTURNING LONG HOLE BORING KIT - 1MT & 2MT - MADE IN UK | eBay he gets good rating and sells a lot. Seems I've bought the last one!
Other suppliers seem out of stock of one bit or the other
Other suppliers seem out of stock of one bit or the other
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
gregmcateer
Established Member
Could I dive in on this thread - related, if not exactly on topic.
I wanted to make a pen for Bic refills - needs a 4mm bit, that needs to drill a longish blank, as not a two part pen.
I've tried several bits, including a more expensive Bosch bit, but cannot get the holes to meet - can anyone recommend a good drill bit type and or any pointers for best technique?
I wanted to make a pen for Bic refills - needs a 4mm bit, that needs to drill a longish blank, as not a two part pen.
I've tried several bits, including a more expensive Bosch bit, but cannot get the holes to meet - can anyone recommend a good drill bit type and or any pointers for best technique?
Jacob
New Luddism. Awake and resist!
Thanks for that Paul but I ordered some new kit, but may be back!
Doug B
Shy Tot
I bought a long series drill bit when I turned a few pens with Bic refills, drilled the blank on the lathe from just one end, worked a treat
Lazurus
Established Member
The trick with longer augers or drill bits in the lathe is not to force them, as they will then wander off centre. Slow and easy does it.
Richard_C
Established Member
Thinking aloud here, could you use 4mm from the end that matters and 5 mm from the other end? Or drill 4mm from the nib end as far as you can, leave the blunt end undrilled and cut the bic refill to length? (file idea under "extreme bodging").
gregmcateer
Established Member
Lazarus and Richard,
Thanks for the hints.
I had a dig around tinterweb and seems some suggest a brad point bit, but with the point ground off, to stop the point trying to follow the softer grain.
Lazarus, I'm happy to go slow and easy. Would you suggest right down to as slow as the lathe will go? (Mine will do 50rpm)
Thanks for the hints.
I had a dig around tinterweb and seems some suggest a brad point bit, but with the point ground off, to stop the point trying to follow the softer grain.
Lazarus, I'm happy to go slow and easy. Would you suggest right down to as slow as the lathe will go? (Mine will do 50rpm)
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