LN 140 Plane - How Useful?

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Rather than copy paste this article I'll just provide a link. Everybody has their own opinion and is entitled to it, there is no 100% right or wrong! but that's just mine. I stiil don't think there is anything wrong with what was shown or how it was carried out.

http://blog.lostartpress.com/CommentVie ... cd33b.aspx

Forgot to add, sorry that the thread seemed to be hijacked from your original topic!
 
As I get older I get more sceptical about tools.

My first question would be ....."What tool do I already have which could do this job"

A few come to mind.

regards
Alan
 
Rod
I've had a 140 for a few years. Its a pretty plane (it does have a spur for cross grain work- the earlier ones a star shaped (stanley type) one, the newer one have a circular spur) has a nice fence, etc. Once set up right it is a fun plane to use - the cool curly shavings are unique.
Downsides are - It is awkward to set it up correctly and is fairly weak around the open side of the plane. Taking a thick shaving can flex the body giving strange results.
It's not a plane I use regularly (although I'm glad I have it :roll: ) and is not really suitable as your only block plane (if that's your intention).
Oh, and they do a left handed version as well for the collectors. But we won't talk about that..... :lol:
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 
beech1948":x4jx8vol said:
As I get older I get more sceptical about tools.

My first question would be ....."What tool do I already have which could do this job"

A few come to mind.

regards
Alan

A router :) - Rob
 
Router as Rob says though you are only taking off a couple of shavings - but no problems keeping the cut parallel?
Shoulder plane against a wooden fence - Rob C shows this in his book.
Record 078, 044, 405 etc. - though I have not tried them?

I asked the question as it seems an expensive (£146) tool just to have for cutting a rebate to aid dovetailing? Derek uses a Stanley 140 for trimming tenons, but as I do most of mine using a bandsaw or TS I find I hardly ever need to trim - but if so would use my shoulder plane or LV LA Block?

And by the way, in the book Rob C calls his saw a Fret.

Rod
 
You can either skim tenons on a router table, which is what I do or use a hand held router with a large base extension. The other side of the extension rests on an off-cut which is the same thickness as the tenon rail (both cramped suitably to the bench in the form of a T, the tenon is at the top of the vertical part of the T) The problem with using a plane to trim a small surface like a tenon is that there's no reference for the plane to use so unless you're really careful, the tenon will end up 'out of kilter' (in other words skewed) with the surface of the rail - Rob
 
woodbloke":16i2f516 said:
You can either skim tenons on a router table, which is what I do or use a hand held router with a large base extension. The other side of the extension rests on an off-cut which is the same thickness as the tenon rail (both cramped suitably to the bench in the form of a T, the tenon is at the top of the vertical part of the T) The problem with using a plane to trim a small surface like a tenon is that there's no reference for the plane to use so unless you're really careful, the tenon will end up 'out of kilter' (in other words skewed) with the surface of the rail - Rob

Here's somebody using this technique "to the max" (as I believe young people would have it)

Router%20plane%20appliance%2002.jpg


http://www-personal.umich.edu/~amidkiff ... ppliances/

BugBear
 
BB - what I was blathering on about but with a hand tool :lol: The hand router will do the job just as effectively...I might have changed the cutter for the 'V' shaped one though to give a slicing cut across the grain...doesn't make a lot of difference though. Thanks for the pic - Rob
 
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