Lidl Plunge Saw Question

[phil p]

Hi,

Did anyone buy this saw today?

Stupid question, however, how do you line up the guide rail against the line you want to cut to?

There's a rubber strip on the edge of this guide rail,which I believe is a splinter guard or something, do you put this to the line you want to cut, or do you line up the edge of the metal guide rail?

And if you do line the metal edge of the guide rail against the line you want to cut, will this not cut through this rubber strip?

Or am I (which I think I am) doing something stupid.

Thanks
Phil

 

[HornBen]

Hey Phil,

I'm pretty sure the idea is that you make your first cut on a piece of scrap wood. This then trims the rubber back to the 'cutting line' of the saw. This rubber edge can then be used as your guide line for future cuts.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ben

 

[artie]

Hey Phil,

I'm pretty sure the idea is that you make your first cut on a piece of scrap wood. This then trims the rubber back to the 'cutting line' of the saw. This rubber edge can then be used as your guide line for future cuts.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Ben

That's what I did.

Someone on another thread suggested replaceing the blade with a more expensive one.

Here is a cut I did this morning, four sheets of cheap Chinese plywood, which is not recommended for re cutting.

I don't think it is too bad.

 

[mickthetree]

the blade supplied is a ripping blade (which is the correct blade for trimming all sides of a modern door), but a finer tooth crosscut blade will product a much cleaner cut in crosscuts and sheet goods.

Try to get the same kerf blade if you can otherwise the strip will only work best on the wider of the two blades.

HTH

 

[JSW]

These are my observations so far, C&V'ed from the HUKD thread.

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My Lidl had 2 on display, although they may have had more in the back.

Arrived at 07:50, young lady and elderly couple in front of me, so felt reasonably safe

On first inspection it looks rather well made, certainly the depth stop, plunge action etc are spot-on, fitted the track together and passed the saw along it, very very minor bind as it passes along the join, well not so much bind as hiccup, if you know what I mean.

The only thing I can fault is on one end of the track over the last 4-6", the middle rubber appears to protrude further than the outer ones, which when the saw is sat on it, gives a slight side to side rocking action, fine across the rest of the track though. I may be able to find a remedy, if not am aware of said iffy end and can compensate.

Not had chance to actually test yet, but be aware a test cut needs to be made to trim the break out rubber edging.

Edit: Just ran a quick test cut in my lunch break, straight edge 6' spirit level says the track is straight and true, the test cut however the same straight edge shows 2mm run off, this maybe down to not cramping the track to the test piece of mdf, and it may have slightly slipped, if not, ugh, dunno.

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(Quote) mjbuckhurst
Mine looks good, no rubber track issues on my tracks, tested the motor and it spins, which is good, it will be a couple of months before I can use it in earnest, time to purchase a pair of clamps and I'm ready to go.
Thanks to the OP, best deal in ages as far as I'm concerned.
mike

Go down the bottom of the track every 4-6" with a steel rule or similar guaranteed straight edge, are the rubber strips definitely all the same level? Could just be mine I suppose.

I don't think the entire length of the track can be used, there are two turn screws front and back of the saw to 'tighten' the saw to the track laterally, until the rear one is engaged, there's 2mm or so of play in the saw left to right of the cut, so if using the full length of track, the saw is already 7 or 8" into the workpiece before the rear turn screw engages, guaranteed failure, so be warned.

TBH though I'm trying to replicate the accuracy of a table saw, which I don't believe this can do, given it's limitations.

 

[Steve Maskery]

I set my track with a setting gauge, like this:

I have another one for cutting strips that are narrower than the track itself, both work in the same way and take into account the kerf of the blade.

 

[phil p]

Thanks for all the info lads.

Tried a few test cuts and my initial impressions were that it's not too bad, for the price, and for how often I'll use it, I think it was worth the outlay.

Might also think about upgrading the blade to a Freud.

Thanks again.
Phil

 

[Rjcagnew]

Hi Steve any chance of a close up of the setting guage , I see you have a tape measure attached to it, seems a good idea esp if set up to include kerf of blade

Thanks richard