Lidl Alert!

[MattRoberts]

well.... against my better judgement I went for the chisels and Japanese saw.

The japanese saw is (IMO) very flimsy, and will probably be used for no more than pruning in the garden.

How flimsy is flimsy? Japanese saws are supposed to be very flexible as they give a very thin kerf. As they cut on the pull stroke, they don't need to be as thick as western saws which cut on the push stroke.

 

[ED65]

...spent 15 mins doing the back and bevel as per Paul Sellars approach.

Not intended to ignite the debate on flattening but I would still recommend you aim for this to take less time. I've prepped the back of many a rusty old chisel, with lots of pitting and a rounded edge, in well under 15 minutes.

On a new blade the least time it has taken me to get the back flat enough for work was about five seconds, or however long 10 strokes back and forth takes.

 

[memzey]

More to the point a hollow back (face or non-bevelled side) is quite handy. Remember you only need it to be even across right at the cutting edge and a slight hollow makes this easier.

 

[Graham Orm]

Bought the little drill press to make an MFT drilling jig. Watch this space.

 

[pollys13]

A proper flush cutting saw also has set, but only on one side, it's indicated on the saw plate which side should be visible, i.e. which side has the set. Uum, interesting, thanks, Custard, think I'm going to need to be getting one.

 

[fezman]

well.... against my better judgement I went for the chisels and Japanese saw.

The japanese saw is (IMO) very flimsy, and will probably be used for no more than pruning in the garden.

How flimsy is flimsy? Japanese saws are supposed to be very flexible as they give a very thin kerf. As they cut on the pull stroke, they don't need to be as thick as western saws which cut on the push stroke.

It could be me / my technique, but i was worried that the blade was going to snap when pushing. Pulling was a breeze and it seems very sharp. Plastic handle feels poor too.

 

[fezman]

...spent 15 mins doing the back and bevel as per Paul Sellars approach.

Not intended to ignite the debate on flattening but I would still recommend you aim for this to take less time. I've prepped the back of many a rusty old chisel, with lots of pitting and a rounded edge, in well under 15 minutes.

On a new blade the least time it has taken me to get the back flat enough for work was about five seconds, or however long 10 strokes back and forth takes.

Hi Ed65 - it wasn't a race.... - i guesstimated 15 minutes and was taking my time. One of the reasons for buying this set was to sharpen them without a honing guide, so i could practice without damaging more expensive chisels. Moving towards getting faster i.e. not having to set the honing guide on the chisel.

I did the other 3 this morning and spent 5-20 minutes on each. One took a bit more work than the others to get all the edge flattened, but other than that they have sharpened like a dream.

 

[Graham Orm]

...spent 15 mins doing the back and bevel as per Paul Sellars approach.

Not intended to ignite the debate on flattening but I would still recommend you aim for this to take less time. I've prepped the back of many a rusty old chisel, with lots of pitting and a rounded edge, in well under 15 minutes.

On a new blade the least time it has taken me to get the back flat enough for work was about five seconds, or however long 10 strokes back and forth takes.

Not wishing to continue the debate that you didn't wish to start ;-) You can flatten a back quickly, obviously it all depends on it's state when you get to it, but it also should be polished to the same degree as the secondary bevel on the front. Pointless just flattening it if you ask me.

 

[ED65]

[a back] should be polished to the same degree as the secondary bevel on the front. Pointless just flattening it if you ask me.

Agreed. Obviously a certain someone doesn't but bevel and back should be taken to the same level, whatever that is.

 

[Benchwayze]

It's just habit for me to leave a tiny amount of waste, which I can flush down with the flat of a sharp chisel; using a slicing cut. Providing the chisel is held flat, not problem.

John

 

[Bodgers]

I had the Lidl saw. It was ok. I bought the Shogun flush cut from Workshop Heaven. £12 I think. Lots better. Sharper and doesn't scratch the surface as much.

 

[Jim S]

They had a tablesaw in the other day too. Typical as I'd just bought one!