Liberon Finishing oil & Briwax Conflict?

[Aden30mm]

I have just completed a rustic yew side table. I have finished it with 4 coats of Liberon finishing oil, flattened with fine wire wool between coats. To take off the high gloss final finish I used Briwax applied with fine wire wool, and left it to dry overnight to buff up in the morning.

Trying to buff it off have proved very difficult, I have used soft cloths, buffing brushes and even one mounted in an arbour fixed to a drill. The results were very bitty and patchy. I have now stripped it back and will apply another coat of the oil to finish.

My question, is there a conflict of application between Liberon finishing oil and Briwax?

Please note the location where the finishing took place is a well ventilated warm place. I may question the use of this wax as it does contain some Carnauba wax, could this be the issue?

Rgs

Aden

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I found it necessary to buff up Briwax very soon after application otherwise that is exactly what happens, I don't think incompatibility comes into it. Personally, I think it's beastly stuff. Easier and better (imo) to use a microcrystalline.

 

[Aden30mm]

Thanks Phil.

I've sent an email to Liberon asking for their advice. The Finishing oil was wonderful to use.

I was pretty hacked off after taking 4 days to finish the table only to have to strip it back. Briwax is in the bin, I don't know why I used it as I do produce my own wax finishes and a hard stick wax for word-turning.

If I get a reply from Liberon, I'll post it here.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Briwax does work well on saw tables, wrought iron etc.

 

[CHJ]

I have never used Briwax, I assume it is a paste wax. Could it be the solvents/volatiles reacting with the uncured/unpolymerised oil.

 

[Aden30mm]

Yep its a paste wax.

You may be correct Chas, it would be interesting to know if any one else has experienced similar issues.

Liberon advice identifies that the oil will take a finishing wax finish (Liberon Black Bison Wax).

Hopefully I may get an answer from Liberon, but my takeaway from this is I will not use these two products together again.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I suspect it is no more than the solvent evaporating very quickly leaving the wax thicker than needed and being quite hard, difficult to buff off.

 

[Aden30mm]

This is what came back from Liberon (I've omitted the name for privacy reasons)

Thank you for your email.

Unfortunately because we do not produce Briwax we cannot guarantee compatibility with it and our products, it could be down to the carnauba wax in it as this is a hard wax unlike a beeswax.

I hope this information is helpful.


Must admit I was impressed how quickly I received a reply.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Phil.p is right, the problem is the solvent ( Toluene ) evaporates very quickly so you need to buff straight away. You need not have stripped it off though, another application of the wax would have softened the first application. This can happen with any wax if it is left too long before buffing but some waxes are thinner and easier to buff out. Briwax is not my favorite but it does have its uses so if I were you I would fish it out of the bin and keep it at the back of the cupboard.

 

[Aden30mm]

Many thanks for the advice, tin dug out of the bin. I'll use it for machine tables.

Finally, what general wax do you guys recommend for finishing?

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

The best commercial wax I have found in the thirty odd years in the trade is Harrells, made by W.S. Jenkins in Tottenham, it comes in a variety of colours but I only use two, 'Antique' W009. It is a very dark reddish brown and suits antique furniture made from medium to dark woods. The other one I use is 'Khaki' W010. It is a slightly greenish yellow colour and I use this on all light coloured woods.
Liberon 'Black Bison' waxes are also very good but I can't stand the smell, some people love it though!
Renaissance wax is excellent, it is completely clear, buffs easily and can be used on leather and metal as well.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Of course Chestnut and others do microcrystalline wax which are good as well.

 

[MIGNAL]

There is certainly a chance that the solvent in the wax reacted with the finishing Oil. You can test that on an off cut but it might be a better idea to let the finishing Oil fully cure - a couple of weeks rather than days. Don't forget that Oil finishes cure very slowly even though they can be touch dry in a matter of hours.
I can't say I've had a problem with Bri wax but if it is evaporating rapidly you can always buy the Toluene free version or do the waxing in smaller areas.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

That's a good point - I'm using Finishing or Danish Oil at the moment, and finding it much easier to finish after it's been left for two or three weeks.

 

[Aden30mm]

I no think that letting the finishing oil dry out for a couple of week sound advice, so many thanks for that tip.

I must ask Santa for a parcel of patience, and not rush the final finishing.