LED downlights too bright - can I dim?

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Joe Shmoe

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I just installed these 10w LED downlights and now my room is too bright half the time.

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/enlite-en-ddl1019-40-10w-led-cool-white-dimmable-fixed-downlight
It says they're dimmable. Can I install this dimmer switch to tame them?

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products...s-2g-2w-2x60w-va-300w-300-va-wh-dimmer-switch
I'd like some advice as it's £58 and don't want to order if not suitable? Will it be a straight swap and nothing else needed? For the record, I have two sets of three, with each set controlled by a 2 bank switch.
 
I just installed these 10w LED downlights and now my room is too bright half the time.

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products/enlite-en-ddl1019-40-10w-led-cool-white-dimmable-fixed-downlight
It says they're dimmable. Can I install this dimmer switch to tame them?

https://www.edwardes.co.uk/products...s-2g-2w-2x60w-va-300w-300-va-wh-dimmer-switch
I'd like some advice as it's £58 and don't want to order if not suitable? Will it be a straight swap and nothing else needed? For the record, I have two sets of three, with each set controlled by a 2 bank switch.
No, you need a trailing edge. Link from gcusick are fine, just beware the total load. Screwfix also have them….
https://www.screwfix.com/p/varilight-v-pro-2-gang-2-way-led-dimmer-switch-white/98455
 
That may work, but it’s designed for use with halogen lamps. Using it with LEDs is likely to make the lamps flicker.

The cheapskate electrician who did our refurb used standard dimmers with LEDs. They flickered, buzzed, introduced horrific electrical noise, and blew a load of the LEDs. After a pointed email our builder made him come back and replace everything including the LEDs that hadn't yet blown. All to save about £4 per dimmer.

We've got the Varilight dimmers now and they work correctly. It's not worth skimping.
 
Our old dimmer was failing, and put out horrendous electrical noise.

Replaced it with a Varilight. A three way, in which I replaced one with a push switch. The two dimmers control the ceiling lights, and the push switch the non-dimmable work surface lights.

Expensive, but works a treat, and fades up the LED's over a second or so. Main installation problem was working out what the four red wires did!

They seem to be multi-function, and sense whether the load is LED, incandescent, dimmable fluorescent or halogen.
 
You can also programme them to some extent - set minimum and maximum brightness. It's a weird combination of turning all the way up, pressing four times, all the way down, press three times, say "Candyman" backwards and then set the thing you want. Though if you just follow the instructions it's not actually tricky.
 
Sorry guys I'm back again. Will the way the previous electrician wired this, be compatible with the dimmer switch recommended above?
ie two separate lives and a single neutral that bridges both?
 
Joe I think you will find that the "Neutral" is actually the live feed. If so the electrician should have put brown sleeving around it. The other 2 wires should be the switched feeds to the fittings
 
Hi, sorry you are right. I probably would have worked that out for myself if I'd actually bother to stop and think about it hahaha.
 
For the unskilled in this field could you elaborate further please?
You also need to beware of the minimum load, believe it or not.

A dimmer, even a Varilight which are really good, have a minimum load current at which they can operate.
It's never been a problem in the past with incandescent lamps because the wattage is so high it ensures adequate current flow once you get a couple of lamps on the circuit.
It's not always the same thing with LED lamps.
The current demand is so low, not all dimmers work as intended, & that's without the complication of the "disagreement" between the dimmer electronics and those of the lamps.
 
I have always used varilight dimmers. The reason is that their literature explains their specification clearly and they are reasonably priced. One aspect is maximum number of led bulbs Irrespective of total wattage. The reason is that led’s draw a high current when switched on.

I have a number of dimmers in my house, about eight, all varilight, installed about three years ago, all still working and the two in the kitchen/family room get a lot of use. They do get warm.

I had problems in one room and had to put in one incandescent bulb but they were very small bulbs In a chandelier, not the down lights you have.

It is a case of reading the literature, selecting a suitable dimmer and setting it up correctly, leading/trailing edge etc.
 
We've got Varilight dimmers and found them so-so. Triple in the kitchen. One channel has failed to dim anymore. Second channel will periodically throw a hissy-fit and flash on - 0ff - on before it decides to stay on.
 

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