Learning from Competition

[Soylent1]

Thanks for the info on skew sizes, I only have a 1/2'' skew at the moment but I'm not planning on doing any large spindle stuff so I think it'll do (If you can rough down with a 3/4 and then turn a 2mm bead with a 1/2''!)
From what Chas said, I'm now assuming you didn't rough down from a square blank with the skew, it was already cylindrical?
Apologies for all the questions! and good luck with making some tools - I'd be really interested in how you go about that.
Thanks Tony

 

[Dalboy]

Thanks for the info on skew sizes, I only have a 1/2'' skew at the moment but I'm not planning on doing any large spindle stuff so I think it'll do (If you can rough down with a 3/4 and then turn a 2mm bead with a 1/2''!)
From what Chas said, I'm now assuming you didn't rough down from a square blank with the skew, it was already cylindrical?
Apologies for all the questions! and good luck with making some tools - I'd be really interested in how you go about that.
Thanks Tony

It was square in section as these

With my larger skew I have rough turned a 2 1/2" square spindle. It is well worth finding a copy of Richard Raffans video "Turning Projects with Richard Raffan" as I said before as far as I know it is not on U tube so you may need to find a source for it

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Whilst learning you'll probably find it easier to control a larger skew - it's easier to keep the cut within the 'sweet spot' of the blade. The added mass also renders the chisel a little less likely to catch, a curved grind is also more forgiving.

Regards Mick

 

[CHJ]

From what Chas said, I'm now assuming you didn't rough down from a square blank with the skew, it was already cylindrical?

What I was referring to is that with any square blank, regardless of tool used you need to work from the centre of the spindle towards the ends to avoid a serious catch and splinters which is what will happen if you catch the corners approaching from the end.

At least until you have a complete cylinder and always good practice anyway.

 

[Soylent1]

Thanks for the advice guys, It's a bit embarrassing how little I know! I always start roughing at the powered end and go all the way to the tailstock end and then go back the other way, I do make sure I don't start right on the edge though! starting in the middle makes sense! But I really don't have the guts for roughing with a skew, I like my big hefty roughing gouge! - I take my hat off to you!!
I'm going to try and get some serious practice in this weekend, so hopefully I'll get a bit more used to working with the skew, and I think I'll go on the hunt for a larger skew.

 

[Dalboy]

When roughing with a skew take smaller bites than you would with a roughing gouge, and you will rough nearly to the end and then turn the skew and rough the small remaining piece. If you are left handed then the cuts will be reversed to what I have drawn