Lathe for hobby use

[brokentechie]

Hello,

I'm after some advice please on a lathe, I was looking for a wood lathe, however most pieces I'm planning on can be made in resin, plus I can turn bespoke metal parts for cars and motorbikes (another passion of mine)

The chap in this ad https://www.gumtree.com/p/lathes/myford-m-type-lathe-and-accessories/1163464357 Is willing to accept 170, and it comes with all the chucks and pulleys etc, two AC motors (both working) and tools etc.

I've done some research and the M type lathe seems reasonable for the light hobby use, plus it's cheap, I'm sure if it's a complete dog I can break for spares and scrap and easily make my money back.

What do you all think of it, and is there anything in particular I should be on the lookout for?

Is there any checks I can do on the headstock bearings, spindle and for backlash/wear or the bed?

Thanks in advance

BT

 

[MusicMan]

Yes it's a good lathe. It will also do fine for wood within its size capacity. It will run up to 1000 rpm if with the right motor etc (I can't read the speeds plate). I know a very distinguished maker of historical clarinet reproductions in boxwood, who made dozens of superb instruments on an ML7.

For spindle wear, hold the spindle and try to move it, but note that wear could almost certainly be taken up by adjusting the bearings.

Bed wear is the most serious, not terminal as it can be reground but this can cost a bit (just had my old Boley done). To check this, adjust the saddle gibs tight enough so that the saddle just moves freely when near the chuck, then wind it to the tailstock end and see if it can still move freely or whether it jams. Or adjust it smoothly near the tailstock and see if it is loose at the chuck end (can be 'waggled' on the bed). If it is worn, it will impact the turning of long spindles, e.g. woodwind instrument tubes, under power feed drive. However for plain turning of short items it will still be fine (over a range for which the saddle moves freely but snugly).

Looks like a good buy to me. Plenty of threads online on restoring a Myford.

Keith

 

[brokentechie]

Yes it's a good lathe. It will also do fine for wood within its size capacity. It will run up to 1000 rpm if with the right motor etc (I can't read the speeds plate). I know a very distinguished maker of historical clarinet reproductions in boxwood, who made dozens of superb instruments on an ML7.

For spindle wear, hold the spindle and try to move it, but note that wear could almost certainly be taken up by adjusting the bearings.

Bed wear is the most serious, not terminal as it can be reground but this can cost a bit (just had my old Boley done). To check this, adjust the saddle gibs tight enough so that the saddle just moves freely when near the chuck, then wind it to the tailstock end and see if it can still move freely or whether it jams. Or adjust it smoothly near the tailstock and see if it is loose at the chuck end (can be 'waggled' on the bed). If it is worn, it will impact the turning of long spindles, e.g. woodwind instrument tubes, under power feed drive. However for plain turning of short items it will still be fine (over a range for which the saddle moves freely but snugly).

Looks like a good buy to me. Plenty of threads online on restoring a Myford.

Keith

Brilliant, thanks Keith.

Is there any way of updating the spindle bearings to a more modern type do you know?

 

[MusicMan]

Probably, but may require quite involved reboring unless there is a special Myford kit. I don't see why you would want to unless you are after very high speeds (>1000 rpm). That is the only real advantage of ball/roller bearings (other than sealed/lubricated for life).

The precision of plain bearings nicely adjusted and lubricated is very high, and is only exceeded by the super expensive super precision roller bearings, the sort you'd use in gas turbines. They are better than ordinary ball etc bearings.

I have a Boley metal lathe dating from the 1930s with plain bearings, which still has only 5 micron runout on the main spindle.

Just remember to lubricate. Even if you forget, all that happens unless you wildly overdrive it is that the spindle tightens up and stops, but recovers when you lube it. From their metallurgical structure, they are hard to damage permanently.

Keith

 

[dickm]

Agree with all previous comments. It looks very much like the myford version of the Drommond flat bed which they were ordered to produce during WW2. I used to have the Drummond version and it was really tight and precise, even thoughit must have dated from the 1930s as it was originally treadle powered. From memory it cost me around £100 some 35 years ago, so £170 for that sounds pretty good. But forget about changing headstock bearing type. Just replace like with like if they are really worn.

 

[DTR]

As above. If it's good enough for the Royal Navy to install on their warships.... Until the ML7 came into widespread use, it was the standard model-engineering lathe.

 

[dickm]

Just went to have another look at the advertisement for the lathe and it says"removed"! Hope you were the lucky buyer- we'll want pics of it in action!

 

[brokentechie]

Just went to have another look at the advertisement for the lathe and it says"removed"! Hope you were the lucky buyer- we'll want pics of it in action!

Indeed I am the lucky buyer.

It seems to my untrained eyes to actually be in really good condition, as stated there is a ton of tooling, chucks ( 3 and 4 jaw, drill etc.) a fixed stay, counter shaft assembly.

The bed seems solid, the only concern I have is a little backlash in the cross feed screw (aka the one with the dial!) when reversing the cross feed direction, but my addled brain thinks that can be overcome.

I'm not sure how long it will take until it turns, as I need to make/source a decent stand, but before all that I need to clear the garage and have a blooming good clear out!

Will scotchbrite be ok for removing the surface rust without affecting accuracy?

The only other disappointing bit is that it doesn't have a complete set of change wheels, it has some, but I m looking to remedy that if people would stop pushing up a spares or repair job on eBay!

 

[dickm]

The backlash may be a very simple tightening up of a collar behind the handle or it COULD be a worn nut, which is more of a problem but not insurmountable once you have it running. Shame about the change wheels, they may be in the hen's teeth category as memory says they weren't the same as later, commoner Myfords.
Scotchbrite shouldn't harm anything.

 

[MusicMan]

All nuts have some backlash, old ones more than others. It's a mild inconvenience but doesn't stop you doing precision work. Even with a new nut you should get into the habit of only approaching the work from one direction (the one that will cut the work). If you need to back off, then back off an extra amount by the amount of backlash, then approach again. Use your position dial on the handwheel to remember where you were and where you need to be.

Keith

 

[brokentechie]

Well deary me, I may be the proud owner of exactly 1.75 (yes, one and three quarters!) M type lathes.

I bought a second spares or repair job from eBay, stupidly tho instead of taking a punt I contacted the seller and asked if there was any change wheels with it, the crafty sod realized that it was going to push the price up, so I paid £123 in the end (i reckon someone else was after the change wheels) but at least I can make the best lathe of the two, and probably (looking at the prices of spares on the bay) make a reasonable sum back if I split it and sell the spares.

There's chucks, a stand and tray all included in the "breaker" and I should have close to a full set of wheels after, plus collars and locking pins, bearings, spindle back gears and all.

The bed alone should fetch good money in scrap if nothing else!

Now I have also sold quite a bit of rubbish so my pot is reasonably restored (sometimes a garage full of rubbish holds treasure!) and I'd like a good book or two to purchase, I know of one called "The Amateurs Lathe" but can anyone else recommend some more worth having or even a "must have"

Cheers for all your replies so far it is much appreciated!

 

[Monkey Mark]

I'm very jealous!

Anyway, not sure on your level of knowledge but i, as someone very new to lathes, found the video below useful. There are, i think, 3 in the series each about 45 minutes long. Not very exciting but certainly helpful.

http://youtu.be/Za0t2Rfjewg

 

[adidat]

good luck with scrapping stuff, loaded up my van with 500kg of dross lying about the place and walker away with £7, made more on about 8 lengths of cable......

adidat

 

[brokentechie]

good luck with scrapping stuff, loaded up my van with 500kg of dross lying about the place and walker away with £7, made more on about 8 lengths of cable......

adidat

Stripped, cleaned, painted, checked for wear and sold as spares then on the bay of E, or kept for spares then I guess.

Besides, with the thread cutting ability restored I'm sure I can make new nuts for the lead screw and cross slides....

 

[Monkey Mark]

good luck with scrapping stuff, loaded up my van with 500kg of dross lying about the place and walker away with £7, made more on about 8 lengths of cable......

adidat

Scrap prices are very low at the moment.