Lapping chisel backs works too!

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woodbloke

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Following on from the thread on lapping plane soles and after a quick perusal of GW in WHS t'other day I had a go at lapping the back of my 'house' chisel, a Marples blue chip...pay no attention to the edge :oops:

The first shot shows the original state of the back, very roughly flattened with a load of the factory grinding marks still present:

lalkjrwe.jpg


These shots show the back after about 30 mins with 80p paper held in my plane sole flattening jig, using 10mm thick float glass, the chisel was used here across the short end of the jig:

rrt2yjyt.jpg


awere.jpg


This next pic shows the back of the chisel polished down to 1000g. What's interesting is that there was a fold in the 800g w/d paper (I was using up oddments of paper and this bit was folded in the drawer when I found it) which has produced a slight 'drubbing' at the front edge:

eeryety.jpg


In the article in GW, a block of end grain was planed flat and then impregnated with a polishing compound and some oil for lubrication:

556ey.jpg


Very little metal is being taken off at this stage, just enough to polish to a mirror finish:

65wr1twet.jpg


...and you can see my ugly mug in the back of the blade. I think that the w/d paper needs to be held down onto the glass with some spraymount adhesive to ensure flatness and there must be no kinks in the paper. This was done pretty quickly as a bit of a test, even so, this chisel took about 90 mins to do, so my set of LN's (which are partly done, but not mirror polished) and the skews are going to take about a day, once I've got hold of some more decent bits of w/d paper - Rob
 
Looks good. Any chance of some detailis of your plane sole flattening jig - that looks interesting.

Andrew
 
andrewm":3lnl9gyt said:
Looks good. Any chance of some detailis of your plane sole flattening jig - that looks interesting.

Andrew

This is an enlarged version of a jig I saw at the last Axminster show. Mine uses a metre of 10mm thick float glass on a bed of 18mm mdf and I made it specifically to finish the sole on a very large wooden plane (the one in the avatar) I recently made. The two side bits overlap the glass and are used to trap the paper being used, whole thing is tightened down using the screws and penny washers. The smaller bits at the end are 6mm ply and are lower than the thickness of the glass. The float glass had to be ordered specially from town and cost £20 so this jig isn't cheap to build...if you use 6mm float glass and make it a bit smaller the cost comes down considerably - Rob
 
Are you going to work away those scratches in the top left of the picture of the chisel or leave them Rob? I guess they do not go anywhere near the cuting edge and do not stop the whole of the chisel back from being flat, so no point in removing except to work up a sweat and wate some time.

Like the plane flattening jig - if only i had the space to store one :oops:
 
Tony - this was only done quickly as a bit of an experiment just to see if it's possible to get the backs mirror polished and flat. It is doable but as I said needs a bit of refinement and more care with my decent set of LN chisels. As this is only my 'house' chisel I won't be doing any more work on the back...might give the bevel and regrind and hone tho' :oops: - Rob
 
woodbloke":tp5a45ta said:
Tony - this was only done quickly as a bit of an experiment just to see if it's possible to get the backs mirror polished and flat. It is doable but as I said needs a bit of refinement and more care with my decent set of LN chisels. As this is only my 'house' chisel I won't be doing any more work on the back...might give the bevel and regrind and hone tho' :oops: - Rob

looks perfectly well prepared to to me Rob (I don't try to remove all the scratches as I am working wood after all) - apart from the bevel of course :D
 
woodbloke":3g2y97uk said:
In the article in GW, a block of end grain was planed flat and then impregnated with a polishing compound and some oil for lubrication:

556ey.jpg

Ooh! I've got one of those anti-racking spacers too!

They're jolly good.

BugBear
 
bugbear":14dwp12i said:
woodbloke":14dwp12i said:
In the article in GW, a block of end grain was planed flat and then impregnated with a polishing compound and some oil for lubrication:

556ey.jpg

Ooh! I've got one of those anti-racking spacers too!

They're jolly good.

BugBear

A now departed Alf invention I think :lol: ...and they do work well - Rob
 
Those most excellent pictures show the usual falling away or dubbing that I always see on chisels which have been subjected to scary sharp type methods.

This is why I do all my chisel prep on stones, keeping the edge off the edge of the stone for 50% of the strokes.

This technique might work with abrasive papers but I have my doubts.

I aim to create my chisel backs minutely concave in length.

best wishes,
David
 
David C":2hug98ef said:
Those most excellent pictures show the usual falling away or dubbing that I always see on chisels which have been subjected to scary sharp type methods.

This is why I do all my chisel prep on stones, keeping the edge off the edge of the stone for 50% of the strokes.

This technique might work with abrasive papers but I have my doubts.

I aim to create my chisel backs minutely concave in length.

best wishes,
David

David - that's why I tried it on a Marples Blue Chip to begin with :wink: :) - Rob
 
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