Lamp bottom?

[WoodPecker]

How do you finish the bottom of a lamp made from a solid log? I would assume that one way would be to mount the top end in a chuck (which I don't have) and face off the bottom, but is this the only way?

 

[Argee]

You could part it off (i.e., use a parting tool to cut right through the cylinder an appropriate distance from the tailstock), or part it most of the way, use a handsaw to complete the cut, then pare of the nub with a chisel or gouge. If you make the cut angled slightly towards the headstock, this will ensure that the base sits square on the outside of the rim.

Ray.

 

[Anonymous]

If you have a faceplate Adrian you could mount a piece of scrap on it and turn a recess to accept the top of the lamp (It's a jam chuck).

Bring up the tailstock to support and turn/finish the base... you'll be left with a small protruberence :lol: which can be carefully pared away with a chisel.

I agree with Argee, bases should generally be concave to facilitate level seating on most flat surfaces.

 

[CHJ]

....snip... which can be carefully pared away with a chisel.....snip....

One other way of removing the 'Pip' , which I find not always easy on hard wood without producing other unwanted blemishes, is to fit a 50mm power sanding head in the lathe chuck and sand the pip off. Initially with a 80 Grit Disc then down the grits to match the rest of the base.
It is possible to readily maintain the concave profile by holding the turned item at the appropriate angle to the abrasive disc.

 

[Alf]

....snip... which can be carefully pared away with a chisel.....snip....

One other way of removing the 'Pip' , which I find not always easy on hard wood without producing other unwanted blemishes <snippage>

A gouge is usually less inclined to mar areas you didn't want messed about, fwiw. It being curved and all. That's a carving or scribing gouge of course, not a turning one.

Cheers, Alf

 

[WoodPecker]

Great Tips everyone, I was lying in bed the othe rnight trying to figure out how do this without a chuck :? , a bit sad i know, I'm sure I'm the only one this has ever happened to

Anyway, as for parting off #-o I must have been tired :roll: I like the sand paper idea, pays to ask the pros.

 

[CHJ]

A gouge is usually less inclined to mar areas you didn't want messed about, fwiw. It being curved and all. That's a carving or scribing gouge of course, not a turning one.
Cheers, Alf

You trying to tip us onto yet another slippery slope by any chance Alf :tool:[-X :wink:

I see it all before me,
>Carving tool might as well get set whilst at it
>They wont stay sharp enough for this wood!
>Is it the poor steel or is it my sharpening technique?
>Shall I by a more expensive set or should I get Diamond--- Water stones .... ScarySha-----

 

[Taffy Turner]

Funnily enough, I nearly bought a set of 8 Crown carving tools on impulse the other day (they were £30, and I thought that for that price they were bound to come in handy for something).

The only thing that stopped me was the fact that I had no idea how to sharpen them properly - especially the curved ones. I decided that was something that I just didn't want to get into at this point in time. :roll:

Regards

Gary

 

[Alf]

You trying to tip us onto yet another slippery slope by any chance Alf :tool:[-X :wink:

Curses, rumbled again. #-o :lol:

Cheers, Alf