kreg pocket hole jig

[StevieB]

Daft question - but can you use normal screws for the Kreg pocket hole jigs or do you need special Kreg screws?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Kreg-Mini-Kit-Pocket-Hole-Jig-22519.htm

I have a large amount of studding to do and for a number of reasons do not want to be banging 4 inch nails into the studs (mainly space or lack of it to swing a hammer). For £16 this would ensure good strong joins between the plates and studs in tight corners but if I have to buy special screws as well then it becomes expensive.

Cheers,

Steve

 

[9fingers]

You need screws with a flat under the head so I guess you could use a round head woodscrew. The Kreg screws will have less tendency to split the wood yo are screwing into.
If you use a countersunk screw then there is a risk of splitting the part with the pocket in it.

Bob

 

[StevieB]

Cool, thanks Bob.

 

[studders]

Kreg screws will also 'Drill' their way through, if you haven't got the setup bang on and don't go right through when drilling, rather than tear or split the Wood.
I tried coarse Pan Head self tappers but they didn't seem quite as secure as the Kreg screws.

 

[jasonB]

Can you not just use say a 5mm drill and drill on the skew and then use 75mm screws. I often do that when I don't want to hammer in older properties were too much vibration could loosen old lath & plaster. Nail gun is the other option.

Jason

 

[studders]

Can you not just use say a 5mm drill and drill on the skew and then use 75mm screws.

Jason

Didn't read the OP properly.

That's exactly what I usually do, I wouldn't have used the Kreg to do it.

 

[chippy1970]

Can you not just use say a 5mm drill and drill on the skew and then use 75mm screws. I often do that when I don't want to hammer in older properties were too much vibration could loosen old lath & plaster. Nail gun is the other option.

Jason

DITTO, I have a Kreg jig but I wouldnt use it for studwork theres no need, as Jason says just skew drill and screw with normal screws, use a quick clamp if need be to hold the stud in position.

 

[studders]

If you shell out for a box of Riesser Cutter Screws (sp?) you don't even need to drill a pilot hole. Can save a lot of hassle even if they are a bit dear compared to normal screws.

 

[StevieB]

:-k Yes, suppose I could just screw at an angle with normal screws. I tend to find when doing this I always drill too close to the end of the timber and have a less than perfect result but with the number I have to do practice should make perfect! I always seem to fail to get the joints pulled tight as well, but guess if I ensure to drill through one and into the other then it should work Will mull it over for a while. Tis only CLS but I want it to be strong and last well.

Steve

 

[9fingers]

Obviously the fixings are important but also cutting accurately and square give the joints the best chance of holding.

Don't get your CLS from B&Q unless you select every piece

Good Luck

Bob

 

[jasonB]

If you just drill the first piece of timber clearance for the screw then it will pull up a lot better than a tight pilot or no pilot hole. I tend to use a 5mm hole and 5.0x70 screws.

And if you cut the studs & noggins the right length there really should not be any gaps to pull closed, best to be able to tap the timber into place and have it firm.

Jason