Kreg Jig advice:

[Scrums]

Hi all...

Just about made up my mind to invest in a Kreg Jig - the master k3 set. Done some research and it seems good - couple of questions:-

Screws, OK - the Kreg's are expensive, but I think that's the way I'll go - initially at least. I'l be joining almost exclusively 20 mm Oak board - am I right in thinking the fine thread cap head 32mm screws are the ones I need?

By virtue of the fact that you're screwing boards together via an angled hole - doesn't that tend to 'push' the board away in the direction of the screw movement?

Any other pointers gratefully received...

Chris.

 

[wizer]

By virtue of the fact that you're screwing boards together via an angled hole - doesn't that tend to 'push' the board away in the direction of the screw movement?

Yes, I find with hardwoods, you need to really clamp the boards well before screwing. Otherwise they'll move. Make sure you do some tests first. I found on some hardwood the screw would split the end of the board when going in near the end grain. Not tired oak tho.

 

[TheTiddles]

I bought a bulk load of Kreg screws for 18mm MDF, I think it was 1,000 or so, it was something like £30 but per screw it's dramatically cheaper, just shop around for the best price. If you can forsee the need, buy in bulk

Aidan

 

[wizer]

yes I find the Kreg excels with MDF, but again, I found you had to clamp everything well and screw slowly.

 

[chingerspy]

I just bought a K3 Master System, Lovely bit of kit! I also have the corner clamp but alas Axminster didn't have the right angle clamp in stock when I was over there. I'm going to order up a couple of right angle clamps when I can as I have already been in situations that demanded them to make the task a lot easier.

I've been making face frames in 3/4 pine and no problems so far apart from when going through into 18mm ply. If there wasn't sufficient clamping from the face clamp alone then the screw just pushed the pieces apart. So even with the Kreg u still can't have enough clamps you just dont need to leave them on while the glue dries anymore!

Use the fine thread screws in hardwoods. I've got a couple of the DVDs they produce and the guy is making an oak table from 3/4" boards. He was using the no.7 screws.

I'd stick with the Kreg branded screws as TheTiddles says if you are going to do a lot buy bulk as cheap as you can. I bought 500 each of the 1" and 1 1/4" when I got the jig.

 

[Scrums]

Thanks for your rellies....

I've gone and done the dirty deed - Powertooldirect - £110.24 total and that includes 1000 screws, so I'd better make use of it !

Chris.

 

[jim2007]

I have had some success with plasterboard screws - they are nice and sharp. Being trumpet-head rather than the pan-head of the Kreg originals you have to be quite conscious of the torque setting you use, but they seem to work really quite well. Can't remember where I got the tip. They are a much more sensible price.

 

[George_N]

I have had some success with plasterboard screws - they are nice and sharp. Being trumpet-head rather than the pan-head of the Kreg originals you have to be quite conscious of the torque setting you use, but they seem to work really quite well. Can't remember where I got the tip. They are a much more sensible price.

I haven't used pocket hole joinery at all buy I thought you needed to use pan head or washer head screws to reduce the risk of the screw head pulling through the workpiece, which would be more likely with trumpet head screws. That may not be a big problem if you are using the pocket screws to hold face frames together but it might be if you want to build cabinets with that method.

 

[wizer]

Chris, have you got the Kreg DVDs? You can have a borrow if you like.

 

[chingerspy]

They are definately worth a watch Chris. I am building my router table using some of the ideas from the DVD.

 

[Graeme]

I use a combination of pocket hole and biscuits on a wide variety of applications.

I find the biscuits help keep the alignment, the pocket hole screws then help clamp things together nicely. I dont like to use pocket holes on there own as I find that the boards can be pulled out of allignement, but may be more cramps would fix that!

I must confess that I use straight foward wood screws, probably 4x30mm and get a good fixing without the cost.

Cheers
G