Kity K5 or what?

[cliffhanger]

Hello

I have just aquired(long story)four pieces of Kity machinery. They are as follows:

Circular saw - 617
Planer - 635
Spindle moulder - 626
Mortiser?? - 659

They are mounted on a table and driven by a central 1100w motor.

I accepted them as I'm a joiner by trade and have used some machinery before. Most were self-explanatary, but in a poor state with rusted threads extra. Good news is that all, apart maybe from the planer, have hardly been used, and have come up well.

My questions are:

1) Assuming they pre-90's and does anyone have a manual for these tools?

2) The spindle mouder has a 20mm central spindle and I have a set of 6 cutters. Can I expect much from this? I need to make some doors soon and need to cut ovolos and rebates 10mm x 33mm (two passes)? I assume only softwood?

3) The planer has a splined spigot to adjust the thickniser bed. Guess what, I have no tool. Have used socket so far, ideas?

4) The 659 is the horizontal chuck with sliding bed. Is this any good for cutting mortises? If so, what's the best cutter if anyone has one.

Many thanks

Cliff

 

[cliffhanger]

Right. I'm new to the forum and have just read an enormous post on the K5, so some of the questions are now answered. Just to say that mine has the green stand with straight legs and red guards, although the spindles a bit sparse. If anyone can contribute then all the better and it looks like Bob has the manual?

thanks

Cliff

 

[SteveF]

I have the full kit dismantled in my garage
if there is any pics you need let me know

Steve

 

[TFrench]

I have a 626 moulder - I've only used it for grooving a 6mm slot for the panel in MDF doors so far but its got a fair bit of power. Finding cutter blocks with a 20mm bore is the issue, unless you make up some adapter bushed so you can use modern 30mm tooling.

 

[cliffhanger]

Many thanks. It's the drill I'm interested in. Does anyone know the right cutter to get and where? Need to cut a fair few mortises. And can't raise the thicknesser bed, socket won't work anymore

Attached a pic. Manual anyone?


Cliff 8)

 

[Lons]

Many thanks. It's the drill I'm interested in. Does anyone know the right cutter to get and where? Need to cut a fair few mortises. And can't raise the thicknesser bed, socket won't work anymore

Attached a pic. Manual anyone?


Cliff 8)

It's not a K5 but its bigger brother the K704 around 80s vintage.
I have some info on pdf. pm me with your email address and I'll send it to you.

Bob

edit:
The cutters are just slot drills but I'm pretty sure are same as K5 in that they are reverse cut. I've seen them somewhere on one of the drill supplier websites but can't remember which one.

 

[MikeJhn]

I can see how the table moves into the drill to control depth, but how is the chisel held stationary to make the mortice cut?

Mike

 

[SteveF]

It's not a K5 but its bigger brother the K704 around 80s vintage.


Bob
.

seems I have the same version looking at the picture
I always planned to just rig up the thicknesser but not sure if they are any good?

Steve

 

[cliffhanger]

I can see how the table moves into the drill to control depth, but how is the chisel held stationary to make the mortice cut?

Mike

There isn't a chisel Mike, just a rotating chuck with a drill bit that drill the holes. At least that's how I see it. Got to research some slot drills.


Cliff

 

[MikeJhn]

So in effect its a horizontal drill with a movable bed and not a mortiser.

Mike

 

[woodbrains]

So in effect its a horizontal drill with a movable bed and not a mortiser.

Mike

Hello,

It is a morticer, look up slot morticer! They are very common in Europe.

Mike.

 

[MikeJhn]

As far as I know I am in Europe and these are not that common wherever I reside, as far as I can ascertain there would be a need for an up-cut drill to clear any blind mortice and then the need to round off the ends of the tenon to match the slot cut, seems an awful lot of faffing about.

Mike

 

[cliffhanger]

Yeah that's the gist of it. The table goes in out and side to side. It is what is is.

So it will drill the holes, join them up and then one would have to square the shoulders up. Can't decide what is more hassle, a router or this. When mortising for twin tenons on 50mm stiles the router can be a bit awkward. And you still have to 'square up'.

As regards the planer. Works well. Don't expect too much. There is a spare pair of blades. I have the thicknesser bed stuck down low at mo. Need the splined tool that raises it.

Cliff 8)

 

[powertools]

Your machine is basically the same as mine except i have the smaller planer 535. It is a very capable machine and dates from the 1980's when i bought mine new. The morticer is very useful and i modified mine to also be able to use it to also produce accurate dowel joints. I have the handle for my planer but was under the impression that if you haven't a deep 12 point socket of the correct size would work just as well.

 

[cliffhanger]

I took my life in my hands this afternoon and produced this glazing bar with the spindle moulder. I have no pressure guards and an alu table, does anyone know where I might get a shaw guard or similar?

Powertools where did you get suitable drills for the mortiser? Most have 13mm shank which is too big.

thanks Cliff

 

[powertools]

I bought mine new with the machine. I think your best bet is to speak to Scott and Sargent They do have suitable cutters listed on there site but they are not very long but they may may be able to help.

 

[Lons]

The morticer is a very capable bit of kit that can produce accurate mortices very quickly once set up. My staff used to demonstrate in our brach during the 80s and the Kity K704 was a popular machine.
I have used one a number of times but own a K5 bought new late 80s which is just a smaller version and have used the slot morticer on that many many times without problem. Rounding off a few tenons certainly isn't difficult and personally I find using a router much more of a faff.

having sold on my Axi morticer last year I'm left with only those two options apart from hand cutting and would use a router only on large work too big for the table though even that can be overcome using outboard supports.

Bob

 

[cliffhanger]

Thanks to you both. Did you get the pm alright Bob?

I may try and swap the chuck for a 13mm. More cutters out there for this size.

Cliff

 

[Lons]

Thanks to you both. Did you get the pm alright Bob?

I may try and swap the chuck for a 13mm. More cutters out there for this size.

Cliff

Yes thanks Cliff, hope the info is of use.

It's a long time ago but from memory the chuck was just a standard thread, can't remember which way it threaded on but should be opposite the direction of rotation - I think?

 

[cliffhanger]

Thanks to you both. Did you get the pm alright Bob?

I may try and swap the chuck for a 13mm. More cutters out there for this size.

Cliff

Yes thanks Cliff, hope the info is of use.

It's a long time ago but from memory the chuck was just a standard thread, can't remember which way it threaded on but should be opposite the direction of rotation - I think?

Thanks Bob, your're probably right, but I can't shift it. Been trying all morning, rusted solid. Tried the usual rap treatment. I managed to lock the shaft with a jubelee, can't risk damage otherwise. Probably needs heat treatment. but I don't have that with me(long story).

thanks again

Cliff 8)