Kity K5 combi machine
- Thread starter smiler6303
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Lons
Established Member
Thanks Mike, just seen his post and will pm him. £40 is a hell of a price, hope it's all there.
Hi guys. It's a combination of 511, 535 and 521 on the table. The riving knife is missing but the blade guard is there. Do yours think it would be safe to use a riving life from another type of table saw of it looks like it fits?
Lons
Established Member
Yes as long as the thickness is correct for the blade being used, you can alter the shape by filing if required or just make up your own, several threads on here on that subjectGmcnally":128rwwud said:
Hi,
I am having issues with the power switch for my kity setup. it wont stay turned on. If you hold the switch on then the motor runs. i opened the switch to have a look. does anybody have any idea on the electrics for these? if a post a pic of it can you tell me if its just a switch and i can replace it or if its possibly a transformer on it? it didnt do this when i purchased it.
I am having issues with the power switch for my kity setup. it wont stay turned on. If you hold the switch on then the motor runs. i opened the switch to have a look. does anybody have any idea on the electrics for these? if a post a pic of it can you tell me if its just a switch and i can replace it or if its possibly a transformer on it? it didnt do this when i purchased it.
frost
New member
Bob,
There has been a Woodmen K5 in my wife's family for a long time, and it found its way to me a few weeks ago. I haven't checked it over yet, but I would really appreciate a copy of your manual as a good starting point to understanding how it all works (mike2357 [at] gmail [dot] com).
I already have several standalone Sheppach machines, so I'll probably just get it all restored and pass it on to someone else in the family.
Thanks!
Mike
There has been a Woodmen K5 in my wife's family for a long time, and it found its way to me a few weeks ago. I haven't checked it over yet, but I would really appreciate a copy of your manual as a good starting point to understanding how it all works (mike2357 [at] gmail [dot] com).
I already have several standalone Sheppach machines, so I'll probably just get it all restored and pass it on to someone else in the family.
Thanks!
Mike
Lons
Established Member
No problem Mike I'll get them off to you, is it a splayed leg version?
Hi all,
newbie to the site so I hope I have the right place on the board. Just bought my own K5 (cream one with yellow guards) and looking forward to building some cabinet doors. (hammer)
I have lots of questions that I was hoping someone would be able help me with.
Thanks
Chris
newbie to the site so I hope I have the right place on the board. Just bought my own K5 (cream one with yellow guards) and looking forward to building some cabinet doors. (hammer)
I have lots of questions that I was hoping someone would be able help me with.
- Bob, would it be possible to send me a copy of of the K5 manual? It would be incredibly helpful. My email is cb_lees [at] yahoo [dot]co [dot]uk
- I want to change the old on/off switch for a more up to date safety switch, does anyone have any advice on how to do that or the best switch to use.
- I need to cut grooves in the side rails and tenons in the cross rails for my cabinet doors. I was planning to do that using the profile tool but I don't have the right size cutters. Is it possible to new cutter, or do I need to update the head to a more recent design?
Thanks
Chris
Lons
Established Member
Hi Chris I'll send the manual tonight, it's for the model which follows yours but will still be of use.
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
Ten years of giving out manuals completely FOC, That's some devotion Bob!
=D>
=D>
Lons
Established Member
I haven't counted, life's too short but many hundreds now and it's just seconds to send so no probs for me. I get something out of it as well as I find it interesting to see just how many of these are still being used all over the world. I've had many extended email conversations with the owners, often beginners so feel I'm giving a little back even if it's just advice which might help them hold on to their digits.Trevanion":3lbrergg said:
I rarely use my K5 these days but it's like an old friend I would find difficulty saying goodbye to. :wink:
Hi all,
I recently spent a happy day in the workshop disassembling, oiling, and reassembling my newly acquired Kity K5.
As part of the referb, and because I have a project coming up, I decided to get a new blade for the Saw, and I hit a snag which I'm hoping someone may have seen before.
My new blade is 195mm diameter, with a bore of 30mm. To get it to fit, I also got a reducer washer to take the bore down from 30mm to the required 15mm.
The problem is that when I put the arbour back on and do up the bolt, the blade is not held fast. I took everything apart and it looks like the face of the removable bit of the arbour is slightly convex. This means that when I do up the bolt, the centre touches before the outer edges. As result the reducing washer is clamped nice and tight, but the saw blade can rotate freely, basically spinning on the reducing washer.
TBH it seems a bit unlikely to me that the arbour had bent, it looks like it's a cast alloy and I would have though that was quite stable and more likely to crack than bend.
I wondered if anyone had come across this before, or had any suggestions on how to fix it?
I was thinking that I could; replace the arbour; add some sort of large rubber washer to hold the blade, try and find a blade with a 15mm bore.
Chris
I recently spent a happy day in the workshop disassembling, oiling, and reassembling my newly acquired Kity K5.
As part of the referb, and because I have a project coming up, I decided to get a new blade for the Saw, and I hit a snag which I'm hoping someone may have seen before.
My new blade is 195mm diameter, with a bore of 30mm. To get it to fit, I also got a reducer washer to take the bore down from 30mm to the required 15mm.
The problem is that when I put the arbour back on and do up the bolt, the blade is not held fast. I took everything apart and it looks like the face of the removable bit of the arbour is slightly convex. This means that when I do up the bolt, the centre touches before the outer edges. As result the reducing washer is clamped nice and tight, but the saw blade can rotate freely, basically spinning on the reducing washer.
TBH it seems a bit unlikely to me that the arbour had bent, it looks like it's a cast alloy and I would have though that was quite stable and more likely to crack than bend.
I wondered if anyone had come across this before, or had any suggestions on how to fix it?
I was thinking that I could; replace the arbour; add some sort of large rubber washer to hold the blade, try and find a blade with a 15mm bore.
Chris
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
When you say removable part of the arbour do you mean the saw flanges? They definitely shouldn’t be convex, if anything they should be concave with a ring left around the outside of the flange so there is good, positive contact with the blade.
Are you sure the reducing ring isn’t slightly wider than the blade plate?
Don’t use anything other than a metal on metal contact with the blade otherwise it will warp and wobble while you’re cutting due to the softer material clamping it and you’ll have a nasty kickback.
The flange could probably be corrected without too much issue, there a few people on this forum with access to a metal lathe including myself that would be happy to help you get up and running proper.
Are you sure the reducing ring isn’t slightly wider than the blade plate?
Don’t use anything other than a metal on metal contact with the blade otherwise it will warp and wobble while you’re cutting due to the softer material clamping it and you’ll have a nasty kickback.
The flange could probably be corrected without too much issue, there a few people on this forum with access to a metal lathe including myself that would be happy to help you get up and running proper.
Quick trip home from work to get measurements.
Blade thickness = 1.73mm
washer thickness = 2.16mm
0.43mm different. Not a great deal but probably not helping things.
Attached is a photo that I hope shows how concave the saw flange is.
I guess I could place it on the flat bed of my bench sander this evening and see it that will level it off.
Blade thickness = 1.73mm
washer thickness = 2.16mm
0.43mm different. Not a great deal but probably not helping things.
Attached is a photo that I hope shows how concave the saw flange is.
I guess I could place it on the flat bed of my bench sander this evening and see it that will level it off.
Attachments
Lons
Established Member
The flange definitely shouldn't be like that Chris you should be able to flatten it with care. The reducing ring however is too thick and I'd file that down to less than the blade thickness, it will be soft enough, or buy another, they're cheap enough.
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