kity 618
- Thread starter marcros
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trsleigh
Established Member
I'll check mine for you this evening.marcros":3ecy9iq1 said:
Toby
CaptainBarnacles
Established Member
I just bought a 619 and I am thoroughly hacked-off that Kit didn't use standard sized slots!
The slots on mine measure 15mm wide with the 'T' part widening to 18.6mm and the overall depth is 6mm.
The slots on mine measure 15mm wide with the 'T' part widening to 18.6mm and the overall depth is 6mm.
Do you think that there is enough material to open them up to "standard". It is the one downside to the saw, that I dont doubt you can work around, but it would be good to have a mitre gauge that fits both bandsaw and tablesaw, without any fuss. It is the depth that is going to be the big question I would think- 18.6 to 3/4" shouldnt be an issue.
ossieosborne
Established Member
If the 618 is anything like the 619, then I would say that there is sufficient material to open them out. As CaptainBarnacles gave the sizes, the slot is an inverted "T" shape, so opening up the slot to 19mm is only a gnats' larger the wider dimension.
I thought about widening mine, but then some helpful chap on here happened to post this link. I made one of these sleds with a slightly better adjustable angle fence. HTH
Oz
I thought about widening mine, but then some helpful chap on here happened to post this link. I made one of these sleds with a slightly better adjustable angle fence. HTH
Oz
trsleigh
Established Member
trsleigh":23l62dmd said:
Sorry Marcros, totally forgot to check when I got home yesterday evening. #-o
I will have another go at remembering this evening.
Toby
ossieosborne":3cbejkru said:
Oz,
That is encouraging that it may be possible. It isnt an urgent job- when I stopped to think what I would want to run in the mitre slot, there is only the mitre gauge. I may just machine up a bar to fit the incra gauge I have. I have the original mitre gauge on the bandsaw, which is probably good enough for what I want to do on it, given that I will have both the table saw and a radial arm saw for when they are more appropriate.
The sled is a definite addition that I want to make. If I make a tenoning jig, I will run it along the rip fence, so in reality the slots are not that important.
Mark
trsleigh
Established Member
marcros":2b8h3a9m said:
I've just measured my 618's slot. Its dimensions are the same as the 619 measurements above.
My 618 must be at least 23 years old. In that time I've had one new motor and 2 major strip downs. These were because the alloy rise/fall motor mounting trunnion appears to almost fuse with the steel rods it moves on, so that eventually the rise/fall seizes up. All is ok for another ten years after stripping down & cleaning up the relevant surfaces.
Good luck with your 618.
CaptainBarnacles
Established Member
That sled does look very nice indeed, I could be tempted to build one of those when I get the time.
If a chap was feeling so inclined to open up the slots on his table saw's top to the accommodate a standard mitre gauge does anyone know how he might go about it? Would it need to be done on a milling machine or is there a DIY way to do it and still make a reasonable job of it?
If a chap was feeling so inclined to open up the slots on his table saw's top to the accommodate a standard mitre gauge does anyone know how he might go about it? Would it need to be done on a milling machine or is there a DIY way to do it and still make a reasonable job of it?
ossieosborne
Established Member
CaptainBarnacles":37cteobl said:
I'm going to replace my sled as I didn't make a very good job of the runners; The kerf in mine is now slightly oval as the runners wern't a tight enough fit. See this post by niki for a better method of fitting runners.
Another modification will be to make it wider (front to back) so as to accomodate something like the size of kitchen worktop.
Oz
If I was doing it, I think that i would take it very slowly with a file. I dont know if they exist, but i would try to find one with a wide safe edge, so that i was only working either a side or the bottom at a time. The file for the bottom might need a couple of safe edges. (I dont know much about this)
Milling it would be ideal- I am not sure how much it would cost. Not a big job once set up, but possibly a fair bit setting it up. axminster-ts200-would-an-incra-mitre-fence-work-with-it-t34550.html accounts the hassle of doing it on a ts200, which is cast iron. I dont know how thick the anodsing is on these kitys, but i would think less than a mm, and below that it should be pretty soft.
I guess that the main factor in the setup time is how flat the top is to begin with- that caused the issues on the ts200. And how much hassle it was to remove it.
I havent ruled out doing it, or having it done. I am going to check out the advantages of doing it first though- it would be a whole lot less hassle machining up a replacement bar for my incra gauge if that is the only thing that i am likely to use it for.
Milling it would be ideal- I am not sure how much it would cost. Not a big job once set up, but possibly a fair bit setting it up. axminster-ts200-would-an-incra-mitre-fence-work-with-it-t34550.html accounts the hassle of doing it on a ts200, which is cast iron. I dont know how thick the anodsing is on these kitys, but i would think less than a mm, and below that it should be pretty soft.
I guess that the main factor in the setup time is how flat the top is to begin with- that caused the issues on the ts200. And how much hassle it was to remove it.
I havent ruled out doing it, or having it done. I am going to check out the advantages of doing it first though- it would be a whole lot less hassle machining up a replacement bar for my incra gauge if that is the only thing that i am likely to use it for.
CaptainBarnacles
Established Member
Yeah, I think I'll look at modifying an Incra to suit the Kity and put the idea of filing/milling out the slots on the back-burner. Machining an aluminium runner shouldn't be to tricky and if I make a few at the same time I can avoid the pain of having to do it again when the first one wears and gets sloppy.
I have just received my saw- well my mate has, and it looks like the mitre gauge has gone missing en route. I need to tract it down between the seller, the transport company and my mate.
In the meantime, I have found a source of some 5/8 x 1/4 aluminium bar. I think that this should almost fit the narrow part of the mitre slot, and the depth, so a little minor material removal with something suitable may not be much work.
It is stated above that the narrow part is 15mm x 6mm, and I make the aluminium 15.87 x 6.35mm
http://www.plhillsales.com/product.asp?Type=45
I have used that chap for some brass in the past- he seemed cheap and happy to deal in small quantities.
In the meantime, I have found a source of some 5/8 x 1/4 aluminium bar. I think that this should almost fit the narrow part of the mitre slot, and the depth, so a little minor material removal with something suitable may not be much work.
It is stated above that the narrow part is 15mm x 6mm, and I make the aluminium 15.87 x 6.35mm
http://www.plhillsales.com/product.asp?Type=45
I have used that chap for some brass in the past- he seemed cheap and happy to deal in small quantities.
ossieosborne
Established Member
There is a standard size of 15mm in stainless steel available from metal stockists, but unfortunately it is only 3mm thick. It would save you the heartache of trying to file the imperial aluminium down to size. Any small machine shops near you?
Oz
Oz
there will be, i am sure. Not sure how much effort filing the aluminium would be- not something i have done before.
could always use hardwood. I am slightly concerned about stainless on an aluminium top- i would rather the bar wore rather than the slot.
I could possibly epoxy 2 3mm strips
could always use hardwood. I am slightly concerned about stainless on an aluminium top- i would rather the bar wore rather than the slot.
I could possibly epoxy 2 3mm strips
