Kity 419 table saw dust extraction

[kityuser]

well I fired up the kity at the weekend after too many moons away.

cut some kickboards for my kitchen and a door for my youngest lads room airing cupboard.

I was truely shocked at just how bad the dust extraction was on my 419 with just the shop vac connected to the blade "scoop" (on the back).

so my next project I`m thinking of is a possibe conical dust hopper to fit under the mobile table its on.

What is the general consensus? show I modify the existing mobilebase/kity stand that is on at the moment, or build a dedicated table saw station?
bearing in mind it needs to be mobile...... (small workshop :-( )

for the hopper idea I was thinking about a conical design sitting under the kity (top of the kity base that the saw is bolted to, cut or removed) sealed with good positive air flow down through the hopper into the dust extractor.

have people experimented with this type of system?

Steve

 

[Anonymous]

Steve

I have sold my kity now and upgraded, partially due to the dust extraction (which was improved by Bean here and partially because the tilt mechanism failed.


Bean's idea worked very well and I can heartily recommend it

 

[kityuser]

tony , thanks, looks good.

At work we have a pretty handy fab dept so I`ll have to have a few words and see what they can come up with.

have the kitys fallen out of favor now?

Steve

 

[StevieB]

Nope, still happy with mine. Only gripe (apart from the extraction) is that the sliding table is a bugger to lock at a set position. Have to keep checking and rechecking and adjusting. I could always make a sliding table to run in the mitre slot though. Certainly no plans to change mine any time soon.

Steve.

 

[kityuser]

good, mines only just run in.

:shock:

steve

 

[woodbloke]

I've made a conical hopper for my K419 which improves the extraction about 500%. It's also useful to block up any holes with a bit of hardboard and fit a zero tol plywood plate. As Tony said, Bean did this first and I took his idea stage further ...extraction is now excellent - Rob

 

[Bean]

Kity
If I was to make the mods to my saw again I would design the hopper with a vertical takeoff point and not a horizontal one. As others have said plug up all holes not used for anything and fit brushes across the slots for the blade angle adjustment.

The extraction works a treat then

 

[kityuser]

I think the vertical/conical hopper sounds like the best idea.

I`ve got some 1/4 inch ply, sounds like its got a use now!

steve

 

[woodbloke]

Steve - you'll find it quite an interesting exercise to make and fit the hopper - Rob

 

[kityuser]

hum.... interesting in what way?

4 triangles with bevelled edges, frame work and a dust port at the bottom.

am I missing something?

does anyone have any plans/dimensions?

Steve

 

[woodbloke]

hum.... interesting in what way?

4 triangles with bevelled edges, frame work and a dust port at the bottom.

am I missing something?

does anyone have any plans/dimensions?

Steve

Wait 'til you try it, the compound angles invloved make it a bit more tricky than you might imagine, specially if you're going to use thin ply to make it and then you have to sort out how to join the vac hose - Rob

 

[kityuser]

rob, ok granted, sounds tricky.

Any advice with the hose fitting?

Steve

 

[woodbloke]

Kityuser wrote:

Any advice with the hose fitting?

I'll put some pics up tonite so you can see how I did mine. The hose was attached by truncating the pyramid and gluing on a lump of mdf and then simply making a big hole which was then a tight push fit on the vac nozzle - Rob

 

[kityuser]

Kityuser wrote:

Any advice with the hose fitting?

I'll put some pics up tonite so you can see how I did mine. The hose was attached by truncating the pyramid and gluing on a lump of mdf and then simply making a big hole which was then a tight push fit on the vac nozzle - Rob

Sounds superb many thanks for the advice

Steve

 

[Bean]

Kity do you know any fabricators? its easier to make in steel than wood, I abandoned a wooden version, it worked but some of the angles gave cause for concern and problems with sealing.

I had mine made out of 1mm steel with a flange face to enable a good seal to the base of the saw and an oppotunity to bolt up.
I also used a self adhesive foam sealing strip for the seal, but had a problem with it drying out and dusting, so i changed the seal to a bead of silicon sealent, which i allowed to set before bolting up

Oh yes I also got him to paint it, he he he

 

[woodbloke]

Here's a couple of pics of how I did mine:

This one shows the completed hopper upside down on the saw and this one:

shows the arrangement for extraction from the crown guard and the main port...all made from plumbing bits, duct tape and cable ties to hold it all together. You can also see that lots of the various holes have been blanked off with some hardboard just tacked in place with a couple of little blobs of hot melt glue - Rob

 

[mickthetree]

Hi Rob, Sorry to drag up this old thread. Appreciate you might not have the saw anymore.

I'm modding the DX on mien this weekend.

Did you block any of the holes where the sides meet the table top? The only thing I can think of for some of the bigger gaps is expanding foam....

Does it need top be a hopper on the bottom? Once there is enough clearance for the tilting motor can it just be flat? I presume the angles help with the dust removal?

MAny thanks!