Kity 1619 and 3636

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boycey

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19 May 2024
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Location
Retford
Hi -Apologies if this is not posted in the correct area or has been covered before
I have just acquired a kity 1619 table saw and a 636 planer thicknesser
I am just starting out am refu4bishing where necessary
I am looking for pdf manuals for both if there is anyone that could help it would be most appreciated
Many Thanks
 
Good Morning Roland
I can't thank-you enough for those
I am refurbishing both so these will help no end
Really appreciated
Thanks again and Regards
(y)
 
I completely rebuilt a 636 planer/thicknesser about 18 months ago. I bought it in a bit of a state from an old barn clearance, stripped the machine to individual components, removed of rust, cleaned and then re-treated before re-assembly. Mine didn't have a fence so I had to make one and have some bits machined for that, there are posts about it on the forum if you search or if you look at my previous threads. I also had some dust collection ports and a thumbwheel for the planer bed 3D printed which weren't unreasonably expensive as mine didn't have any with it so can share you details for that as well if needed.

Overall it wasn't a bad job, the most difficult things I came across was refurbing the block and getting the heigh adjustment chain for the thicknesser table to run properly.

For what it's worth I have found the 636 to be excellent for my needs, it's compact nature suits my small shed workshop and it excels at everything I ask it to do.

Do message or tag me in a post if you get stuck or need any advice along the way and I will help if I can.
 
I completely rebuilt a 636 planer/thicknesser about 18 months ago. I bought it in a bit of a state from an old barn clearance, stripped the machine to individual components, removed of rust, cleaned and then re-treated before re-assembly. Mine didn't have a fence so I had to make one and have some bits machined for that, there are posts about it on the forum if you search or if you look at my previous threads. I also had some dust collection ports and a thumbwheel for the planer bed 3D printed which weren't unreasonably expensive as mine didn't have any with it so can share you details for that as well if needed.

Overall it wasn't a bad job, the most difficult things I came across was refurbing the block and getting the heigh adjustment chain for the thicknesser table to run properly.

For what it's worth I have found the 636 to be excellent for my needs, it's compact nature suits my small shed workshop and it excels at everything I ask it to do.

Do message or tag me in a post if you get stuck or need any advice along the way and I will help if I can.
Many thanks for that
Much appreciated
Got both machines for a good price
The 636 looks in great condition overall so shouldn't need too much work ( famous last words)
The table saw doesn't start though - found 2 capacitors In parallel across motor- one has clearly failed - but there discontinued.
Was going to post details on here for some guidance maybe.
Looks like I need an equivalent but not an area I'm over familiar with
Thanks
 
Many thanks for that
Much appreciated
Got both machines for a good price
The 636 looks in great condition overall so shouldn't need too much work ( famous last words)
The table saw doesn't start though - found 2 capacitors In parallel across motor- one has clearly failed - but there discontinued.
Was going to post details on here for some guidance maybe.
Looks like I need an equivalent but not an area I'm over familiar with
Thanks
You will find a great deal of advice on this forum and if you post about your problems as and when they arise I have no doubt there is the knowledge and experience on here to help with whatever you come across.
 
I completely rebuilt a 636 planer/thicknesser about 18 months ago. I bought it in a bit of a state from an old barn clearance, stripped the machine to individual components, removed of rust, cleaned and then re-treated before re-assembly. Mine didn't have a fence so I had to make one and have some bits machined for that, there are posts about it on the forum if you search or if you look at my previous threads. I also had some dust collection ports and a thumbwheel for the planer bed 3D printed which weren't unreasonably expensive as mine didn't have any with it so can share you details for that as well if needed.

Overall it wasn't a bad job, the most difficult things I came across was refurbing the block and getting the heigh adjustment chain for the thicknesser table to run properly.

For what it's worth I have found the 636 to be excellent for my needs, it's compact nature suits my small shed workshop and it excels at everything I ask it to do.

Do message or tag me in a post if you get stuck or need any advice along the way and I will help if I can.
I have had my 636 for nearly 30 years and it has always satisfied my needs. Routine blade resets have all it has needed.
But recently I got hold of a BIG long block of mahogany, rough cut and not straight sided.
I started by putting a flat side on the side closest to true then tried the thickness it. It wouldn’t go through the thicknesses! Finally I determined that the cutter block was not engaging because something has slipped; the workpiece is being stopped by the toothed bar which prevents to workpiece being pushed back by the cutters. Obviously something, perhaps more than one part, has been displaced by the weight of this big piece of hardwood. But which? Where do I started?
Any advice will be much appreciated.
 
Are you saying that the workpiece hits the non-return 'teeth' as you are feeding it in, or are you talking about the ribbed roller?
 
Yes. They stop the workpiece. The feed-in level, relative to the cutting head, and the output space, is too high. Changing the height of the feed-in isn’t the answer. The problem lies in the upper part of the machine.
 
Interesting. I actually don't have that bar and the anti-kickback teeth on my machine, as the 3D printed dust hoods I use won't fit to the machine with it in place.

To my recollection when I removed it, it is just a straight steel rod with the teeth sat loosely on, each separated by a washer. There is at least 3mm or more of clearance though between the bar height compared with the cutting blade height, so I can't see why you would be hitting it and not the cutters. There isn't really a way for it to drop subtly, it's a straight steel rod fixed at each end (not adjustable). If the steel rod fell out one end of the machine housing then of course one side could drop, but that is only possible with the tables off and the block carrier off which hold the sides of the machine in place. The cutter block is also not adjustable depth-wise.

I am wondering if because of the size and awkwardness of your workpiece you are feeding it in at a slight upwards angle resulting in the leading edge of your workpiece being high off the table at the point it hits the teeth, to check this for sure you could try and thickness a smaller piece of scrap to test.

Alternatively, could your thicknesser bed be sat at a slight angle with the outfeed lower than infeed end? For this to happen it would have had to skip a few teeth on the chain underneath the machine, the chain can sit slightly loose if the tensioner slips and from what I remember the tensioner isnt held in place particularly well just a bolt and washer. it won't have skipped on the upward threaded rods as they have very chunky ACME threads on them. I still think this is unlikely as I don't think there is enough play on the lifting threads to be honest with you to allow that to happen unnoticed.

Let us know how you get on with those things, if not will keep thinking! I can go out and inspect mine again tomorrow if needed.
 
I woke up during the night with the realisation that I was feeding from the wrong side!
It is a long time since I used the thicknesser and I am getting old (86) and my brain sometimes isn’t in gear. This morning I did things correctly and got the job done.
Thank you all for your suggestions. This is the first time I have used the site and found it encouragingly helpful. Pity it is so late in my woodworking career!
 

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