kitchen query

[janner89]

Hi guys,

I'm currently designing and buillding kitchen and one of the wall runs is against a wall with insulted plasterboard, around 80mm i believe. I've never had to hang anything off it before so am a little unsure the best way of hanging potentially heavy kitchen wall units from it.

I have seen the bullfix fixings - would they be appropriate? https://www.diy.com/departments/bul...oard-fixings-starter-kit/5065002347008_BQ.prd

I'd be concerned that fixing a hanging rail will crush the plasterboard and it's relying entirely on the insulated PB adhesive to the external wall surely?

Would it be better to multi-tool out the insulation and fix a deep batten securely to the external wall that I would then fix my cleat/hanging bracket to?

I don't like the idea of fixing through the plasterboard 80mm to the back wall as essentially the fixing is then cantilevering through the insulation - any advice greatly appreciated!

Cheers

 

[Sgian Dubh]

The chances are there are vertical timber studs 610 mm on centre, and possibly some horizontal noggins to which the plasterboard is attached. Find those and attach the cabinets to the studs, possibly via a horizontal rail attached to the studs through the plasterboard. I may be wrong about the presence of studs, though; in that case my suggestion is invalid. Slainte.

 

[eribaMotters]

My initial thoughts are try and get the base units to take the weight by making a dresser type top.
Secondly for fixing to the wall I would only ever use these type of fixing. Self Drill Pozi Plasterboard Fixing Zinc | Toolstation
I use the metal and the nylon type. I've just finished fitting out wardrobes, bookcases etc throughout our new bungalow. Some of the walls are plasterboard and on these I've used a combination of the nylon or metal fittings, along with liquid nails.

Colin

 

[HappyHacker]

To remove the load from the plasterboard I have in the past used spacers under the fixings so the wall unit is tightened against the spacer so there is no load on the plasterboard.

In your case I would cut a small square/or round hole (in the region of 2 inches) out of the plasterboard/insulation and put in a block of wood as a spacer under each fixing point fixing with a long thick screw with a decent plastic plug in the wall behind.

 

[COWS]

Like @Sgian Dubh says, run a batten fixed to studs where the wall cab brackets will fix. Run another near the bottom so the cabs hang properly. You may need to adjust the base units to suit if they need to line up with the wall cabs. End panels should cover the gaps at the end of the runs.

 

[janner89]

there are no studs unfortunately, it is an insulated plasterboard panel, fixed via adhesive dabs back to the external wall - it performs better thermally this way but presents difficulties when fixing

 

[deema]

I’m assuming you’re using adjustable hangers for the cupboards. In which case just buy a length of the steel cupboard hanger rail and put lots of screw in. I’d use masonry screws so it’s just drill and screw rather than having plugs.
The alternative which I used to do is place a piece of 50x25 (2”x1”) baton against the wall, mark either side, and cut out the plaster. The wooden baton is then screwed to the solid wall and cupboards hung from it. Make sure you paint the baton all sides.

 

[peter-harrison]

I would just fix it to the plasterboard using Fisch fixings- where you use a tool to expand the fixing behind the plasterboard. Most of the load the fixings will be applying to the plasterboard will be downwards- just imagine how much weight you would need to drag one of those fixings down through the PB- then X by however many you're using. It's a lot!
Similarly, the load put on the adhesive dabs is also mainly downwards, so if they've been done properly, again no problem.

 

[Distinterior]

I would just fix it to the plasterboard using Fisch fixings- where you use a tool to expand the fixing behind the plasterboard. Most of the load the fixings will be applying to the plasterboard will be downwards- just imagine how much weight you would need to drag one of those fixings down through the PB- then X by however many you're using. It's a lot!
Similarly, the load put on the adhesive dabs is also mainly downwards, so if they've been done properly, again no problem.

Plus the fact that a run of 3 or 4 or more wall units will all be screwed to each other, so the load will be distributed between all the cabinets and their hangers.

 

[ColinDeVelen]

1. I'm sure it was an auto correct thing, but 'insulted plasterboard' made me smile.
2. Is there any way for you to build a frame against the plasterboard, attached to the wall through the board to stop it falling over, but so that the weight is actually down to the floor or to the counter top? You can clad the frame with a translucent material, put some LED's behind it for a unique lighting feature.

 

[owen]

I've just done exactly what you need to, I used these and they were perfect..



Check this out! https://amzn.eu/d/cELFOfp

 

[Jones]

It does depend on what you'll put in the wall cabinets,if it cornflakes, doritos and a few wine glasses then plasterboard fixings should be ok. With the wing type fixings you have to undercut the insulation a bit so they can expand properly. If you'll be putting a load of tins and all your crockery up there I'd recommend fixing a 2x3 to the brickwork and fixing the cabinet hangers to that, then you know it's solid.

 

[Distinterior]

Janner,

If you are overly concerned about fixing into the plasterboard itself, just buy some of these fixings to hold the rails/ brackets to the wall.....

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-...rGT_-Yeh4-E21hZ4fYBoCebwQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
They will be supported at the front by their tight fit in the plasterboard and will be more than beefy enough to carry the weight of a few wall units that are all screwed together.

Depending on which rail or bracket you are using, 4 per cabinet will be plenty.....Trust me!

 

[Spectric]

I have found the best fixings for plasterboard are either butterfly fixings SPO Spring Toggle for use in Plasterboard - Rawlplug United Kingdom

or these from Toggler.



In your situation it is similar to dot and dab plasterboard except your gap is filled with insulation. Once a fastener is tightened up then it no longer carries all the load, if you are securing a batten to the wall then the friction of the batten being pulled onto the wall will be supporting a proportion of the load and will alleviate your concerns.

I don't like the idea of fixing through the plasterboard 80mm to the back wall as essentially the fixing is then cantilevering through the insulation

If this was my job I think I would use Fischer frame fixings because you are not going to compress the PIR insulation, look at

https://www.fischer.co.uk/en-gb/pro...ng-sxr/frame-fixing-sxr-with-countersunk-head
You might have to use a larger diameter to get the required length.