Kitchen drawers

[Kev]

Sorry if this doesn't make sense but I am just about to start making my new kitchen.

We want one which has a face frame on to make the carcass look thicker than just the 18mm it really is and therefore inset rather than overlay the door and drawer fronts. My question is if I do this does this mean I cannot use drawer runners or do you just effectively pack them out a bit on the inside so they are in line with the reduced opening. Most kitchens I have seen with these thicker face frames on them tend to have traditional dovetail drawers and not soft closing (or other) runners.

As the cabinet doors are inset rather than overlay due to the frame it means I can use standard hinges rather than cabinet hinges which should look quite nice (I hope).

 

[jameslee30]

Yep, you just need to pack them out to the opening size. How are you going to make your drawers? make sure you check your runner sizes before making them as some require different spacings etc.

 

[Kev]

Thanks James. Thats good news. Will probably dovetail them and add a drawer front, but not 100% on that yet. First job is of course to make the carcasses! Can see long hours in the workshop :lol: Will be making the out MR MDF.

 

[JonnyD]

It is easier on a drawer pack carcase to make the carcase flush with the inside edge of the face frame and allow the faceframe to overhang the carcase. You just need to pack the Gap out when the carcases are bolted/screwed together. Doing it this way you arent mucking around with spacers and can screw the runners directly to the carcase sides.

For the measurements the distance between the drawer sides is 42mm less than the internal carcase width and your drawer sides can be a maximum of 16mm thick unless you rebate out fot the drawer slides.

heres some that i have done

cheers

Jon

 

[Benchwayze]

Can't you use under-drawer runners?
I haven't used them myself, but I think if I was using face-frame construction I would. It would mean that once you position the runners, the drawers wouldn't need any guides at the side. (I think!)

I appreciate why you want face frames, but depending on the width of the run of cabinets, aren't you losing a deal of horizontal space?

Best of luck
John

 

[Mooeee]

JonnyD

Nice looking kitchen did you use underdrawer runners or are they traditional drawers as you would have in a piece of furniture??

Thanks

 

[jasonB]

If you intend to have draws above cupboards then you will need to use packers as JonnyD's method is only really suitable for full draw units if you are not going to loose a lot of cupboard width. I'm also not keen on a separate faceframe on each carcase, prefer it like this.

You can use packers that are a few mm less than your faceframe overhang so reducing the loss of draw width but the amount will depend on the thickness of your draw sides.

I think JonnyD is using Blum Tandem undermounts or a similar make with full extension and softclose.

Jason

 

[JonnyD]

JonnyD

Nice looking kitchen did you use underdrawer runners or are they traditional drawers as you would have in a piece of furniture??

Thanks

As Jason says these are on Blum Blumotion Runners.

These are the drawers in context to the kitchen with a face frame that covers all the carcases like what Jason prefers.

These are some drawers with a separate Face frames for each carcase

It depends on the design to which one i do but large lengths are definetly easier with separate face frames.

cheers

jon

 

[Kev]

Thanks guys for the advice.

Jon - nice cabinets, have given me a lot of confidence in what I am doing. As it si a large kitchen I can lose a fair bit on over hanging the face frames without a problem.

Jason - really like the proportions and layout of what you have made. I take the point about the mixture of drawers and cabinets. Whats sort of cabinet latches have you used (magnets, pressure release or ball catch?)

Jon- have been looking at the bluemotion - would you say they are worth the extra money.

Have all the sheets for the carcassing coming tomorrow so things are moving on at a pace!!! Just need to finalise the style now.

 

[JonnyD]

Jon- have been looking at the bluemotion - would you say they are worth the extra money.

The blums are nice and work well the cheaper runners tend not to have a rear tilt adjustment which can be handy when fitting.

I have just started using a runner from grass called a dynapro which are excellent with strong diecast fixing clips and adjustment all around including side to side which you dont get with the blum runners. I am fitting some in some bedroon furniture at the moment so will try to take a pic for you they are about the same price as a blum blumotion runner.

cheers

jon

 

[jasonB]

Whats sort of cabinet latches have you used (magnets, pressure release or ball catch?)

The handles still had to be fitted when the pics were taken( hence the masking tape pulls) but the doors are held shut with these the magnet screws in/out to give about 4mm of adjustment which is handy.

This was done at the same time to go in another part of the room

Jason

 

[Digit]

That's done it, I've gone off you Jon! The wife's just placed an order with me for similar to your work! :lol:
Very nice indeed.

Roy.