Kitchen cabinets.

[Jar944]

I posted this awhile back in a different section but here is the machine I built to notch the beaded face frames. I had the idea after seeing a commercial notching machine and then fixing one of my hinge borers. I didn't realize at the time when I built it but its basically a large Hoffmann dovetail machine.

 

[Raclettefordinner]

The frames are pocket screwed and glued together.
View attachment 105602

Thanks for the very clear show and tell, i have not used the pocket hole jigs but am aware they are popular - i had imagined you may have a doweled /domino connection there.
Also really interesting to hear that maple is a cheaper alternative to MDF !! Wow.
I hate MDF so in your shoes would definitly be using Maple .
I dont buy it as a timber here in the uk but imagine it is quite costly compared to MDF etc

 

[Jar944]

Thanks for the very clear show and tell, i have not used the pocket hole jigs but am aware they are popular - i had imagined you may have a doweled /domino connection there.
Also really interesting to hear that maple is a cheaper alternative to MDF !! Wow.
I hate MDF so in your shoes would definitly be using Maple .
I dont buy it as a timber here in the uk but imagine it is quite costly compared to MDF etc

Pocket hole are an industry standard for faceframes here, to the point there are semi automated pocket hole machines and assembly tables designed specifically for face frame assembly. I actually have one of the smaller manual pocket hole machines that I upgrade with a pneumatic clamp and foot pedal.

 

[mark w]

0.070 gap around doors, I thought for a minute you were measuring in metric.

 

[mark w]

Metric would be very tight.

 

[Jar944]

0.070 gap around doors, I thought for a minute you were measuring in metric.

That would be very tight.

Sorry. 1.75mm or so..lol

 

[Jameshow]

That would be very tight.

Sorry. 1.75mm or so..lol

Would you not use 1/16"???

Cheers James

 

[Spectric]

That is very very nice workmanship and I love the style. Also I noted that on your frames you don't just butt them up but slightly insert them, I like that concept because it provides positive location. What pocket hole screws do you use?

 

[Jar944]

Would you not use 1/16"???

Cheers James

Well nominally it is. 1/16 is 0.0625" and I'm going for. 0.070" before paint. Its about the limit for the blum thick door hinges. With a 1.125"/28.5mm door before it binds. With a salice 200 series I can go tighter on the gap, but for me the salice hinges are harder to get in a cam lock soft close model.

 

[Jar944]

That is very very nice workmanship and I love the style. Also I noted that on your frames you don't just butt them up but slightly insert them, I like that concept because it provides positive location. What pocket hole screws do you use?

The notch is really just a mitre for the bead. The screws are kreg brand.

 

[sammy.se]

I posted this awhile back in a different section but here is the machine I built to notch the beaded face frames. I had the idea after seeing a commercial notching machine and then fixing one of my hinge borers. I didn't realize at the time when I built it but its basically a large Hoffmann dovetail machine.


View attachment 105608
View attachment 105609

That notching machine looks top notch! (pun intended)
It also looks like magic - I have no idea how you did that, I assuming is pneumatic - it's great.

 

[Jar944]

That notching machine looks top notch! (pun intended)
It also looks like magic - I have no idea how you did that, I assuming is pneumatic - it's great.

Lol. Yes its pneumatic. Two solenoids and a foot pedal switch. Really a simple thing.

 

[Spectric]

That is some cutter head Mike is using in his table saw to cut those recesses. Looks like a very efficient system but here in the UK we can only fit std blades to our table saws and big cutters like that are taboo.

 

[Spectric]

Looking at your method with the pneumatic vertical router is again well thought out, and I could see I could do this using my Woodrat although maybe not as fast. What cutters are you using, they look pretty large?

 

[Jar944]

Looking at your method with the pneumatic vertical router is again well thought out, and I could see I could do this using my Woodrat although maybe not as fast. What cutters are you using, they look pretty large?

Its a standard kreg notching bit.

https://www.kregtool.com/shop/routing/routing-system-components/14-x-1-12-notching-bit/PRS4200.html
They have a system they sell for the exact same purpose, that works on a router table. That is what the bit was intended for.

 

[Jar944]

That is some cutter head Mike is using in his table saw to cut those recesses. Looks like a very efficient system but here in the UK we can only fit std blades to our table saws and big cutters like that are taboo.

I'm not sure I understand? There was no tablesaw used for the notches.

 

[Spectric]

I think I opened another video when yours stopped, this one shows the cutter being used by Marc Sommerfield



but the video with Mike used a home made sled with microjig runners. Anyway your method with a router is good and I never realised the range of Kreg products.

 

[Jar944]

I think I opened another video when yours stopped, this one shows the cutter being used by Marc Sommerfield



but the video with Mike used a home made sled with microjig runners. Anyway your method with a router is good and I never realised the range of Kreg products.

The commercial units that gave me the idea use a similar cutter to the sommerfield. Ideally its a better method as you can notch after the bead is there, but you can't mirror the parts with one stop setting.

Commercial notcher