Kitchen cabinet standards?

[Farmer Giles]

I'm about to make some kitchen cabinets and I was aiming to build the carcasses but possibly use some bought accessories such as sliding baskets etc.

Is there a standard for size/spacing the mounting holes in the cabinet sides or are they all proprietary?

If they are proprietary, is there a particular manufacturer that is a defacto standard amongst kitchen fitters?

Please don't reply if you just want to talk me out of building my own carcasses, or if you know firm xyz builds excellent one etc. It's a done deal, I'm building them, that is already decided!

Cheers
Andy

 

[LarryS.]

I'm about to make some kitchen cabinets and I was aiming to build the carcasses but possibly use some bought accessories such as sliding baskets etc.

Is there a standard for size/spacing the mounting holes in the cabinet sides or are they all proprietary?

If they are proprietary, is there a particular manufacturer that is a defacto standard amongst kitchen fitters?

Please don't reply if you just want to talk me out of building my own carcasses, or if you know firm xyz builds excellent one etc. It's a done deal, I'm building them, that is already decided!

Cheers
Andy

Andy the cabinets are always standard outside dimensions , 300 500 600 800 and 1000, and the carcass thickness from memory is 15mm or 18mm (depending on manufacturer), so should be straightforward to work out dimensions for internal fittings ?

I'd go with b&q dimensions as fittings are usually available within a short drive

Hope that helps


Paul



Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk

 

[Distinterior]

Hi Andy,

They are all proprietary I'm afraid.........Having said that, a lot of kitchen component & accessory manufacturers utilise the System32 measurements. Basically, the spacings between the various fixing holes of drawer runners, hinge plates, shelf hole spacings are all 32mm apart or multiples thereof.

There is one company that immediately springs to mind when you think quality, choice and design of kitchen hardware.....Blum.
Not cheap, but their fittings will last a lifetime.

Hope this helps!

Tim.

 

[Farmer Giles]

Thanks Paul and Tim

System32 sounds interesting, that's the kind of info I'm after

unfortunate name when googling it though, keeps coming up with Windows system file information.

I have found some interesting stuff though

Blum and Hafale keep springing up.

 

[Distinterior]

Hafele offer a good, varied selection of fixtures and fittings for your needs from what you described.
I believe they sell Grass drawer runners and systems amongst others. Good quality, made in Austria as well.

 

[stuartpaul]

From memory the Hafale catalogue has detailed dimensions for fixing holes etc. for all its accessories (unless that's changed?).

I know it's available as a download so you can browse from a very extensive range of stuff (some you never knew you needed!). There is also quite a lot of online resources for their bits and pieces which is very useful but you do have to search a little sometimes.

 

[tomatwark]

I would use Hafele, I buy most of fittings from them.

One thing to consider, is if you are making an inframe kitchen the thickness of the frame, doors and drawer fronts can throw out the standard measurements from the face of the carcase, so if you have not done this before a test is always good.

But it is fairly easy to work out and adjust if necessary.

 

[RobinBHM]

I'm about to make some kitchen cabinets and I was aiming to build the carcasses but possibly use some bought accessories such as sliding baskets etc.

Is there a standard for size/spacing the mounting holes in the cabinet sides or are they all proprietary?

If they are proprietary, is there a particular manufacturer that is a defacto standard amongst kitchen fitters?

Please don't reply if you just want to talk me out of building my own carcasses, or if you know firm xyz builds excellent one etc. It's a done deal, I'm building them, that is already decided!

Cheers
Andy

There is no standard as such although drill hole centres are virtually always 32mm.

So for example, if you wanted to fit drawer runners, the first hole position back from the front of your carcase needs to be decided by you, then the next holes are going to be multiples of 32mm.

Face frame construction needs different thinking to overlay. Take drawers for example, you either need to use drawer runners with front to back adjustment, or you need to set the drawers say 2mm back and then use an ajustable to stop so you can then make sure your drawer finished in the correct place.

PS. why dont you buy in the carcases already manufactured, Ive always used XYZ carcases Ltd

 

[clanger]

Here is a fairly well detailed website:
http://www.davelers.com/32mm/

FYI: I personally don't rate XYZ Ltd carcasses. I much prefer ABC cabinets :lol:

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Andy,

You might find this useful.

HTH,
Neil

 

[Farmer Giles]

Marvellous, thanks guys, some good information and links I haven't found before that will prove useful. =D>

 

[Geoff_S]

I've made a few kitchen cabinets in my time. Nobody has ever tried to talk me out of it, they are just lost for words.

Anyway, Hafele, Blum are great, I've used both.

The thing that I do though is in general decide the approximate dimensions of a unit, source the nearest dimension unit that fits and then build
the cabinet around it.

There's nothing worse than making a cabinet and then realising that although the cabinet is physically the right size, the mechanism of the
pull out unit gets impeded. I'm thinking of the pull out units for corner units where the back half is hidden.

I of course, have never done that #-o

 

[Farmer Giles]

Thanks Geoff

I think I'm heading in the right direction now, I'm starting on the utility room first which is relatively simple. 3 x 600 tall larder units, one 600mm undersink unit, a 300mm wide tall unit for that bloody annoying ironing table, a bespoke size tall cabinet to cover pipes and other services, a wine rack and a few other bits and bobs, nothing very taxing.

 

[AES]

Hullo Farmer Giles. I'm no where near as expert as the people who've answered up to now, I fact I know very little really. BUT, when it comes to fitting out the kitchen and utility room with all the little "fancy nick-knacks" that one needs (not only cutlery drawer dividers, but odds n ends like saucepan lid holders, towel racks, SS trivets, etc, etc, etc) don't forget your local IKEA.

YUP, I know that getting out of there is a PITA (BTW, our local branches have now started hanging little "maps" all over, showing short cuts to the quickest way/s out - I guess some IKEA branch manager came to work one day and found a couple of corpses lying behind some internal alley way somewhere who failed to find the way out!!!), but despite all that, we found when doing the last knockings of fitting out our new kitchen (NOT made be me I hasten to add), not only did IKEA have a huge range of all that sort of stuff, but also the prices and quality were pretty good.

HTH

AES

 

[Farmer Giles]

Hi AES
Funny you should say that, i do rate IKEA kitchen accessories and was considering reusing the old utility rooms' innards, that was IKEA and wasn't half bad.

Hafele and Blum are good but ain't hafele bluming expensive too so will use them sparingly.

Cheers
Andy

 

[Shultzy]

Hi Farmer Giles, glad to see you are not being talked out of making your own cabinets.

If you check out my "New kitchen post in my sig, you will find a few good pointers in making the jigs required for accurate cabinet making.

Make sure you plan out your sheet material so as to reduce waste, otherwise it could be very costly.

 

[Farmer Giles]

Thanks Shultzy

Very nice kitchen, lovely job!

Some very similar thinking here, great minds etc.

I'm using Bona Mega for finish of the carcasses, very similar to what you used, its a floor sealer, water based poly, hard as nails and can be rollered, quick dry time etc. I use this on our oak floors, great stuff.

Jigs are a big yes, that was one of the main reason for this thread. I will buy the gear and measure it then set up the jigs but I have a few pointers now.

The main differences will be construction materials and legs, I'm using birch ply throughout for carcasses, a bit more expensive but I have already decided this, I will not be using MDF. This will make me extra careful when cutting the sheets to minimise wastage.

The cabinets won't be having legs as such, but a welded 25mm box steel frame with small adjustable feet. It may sound extreme but I can weld, I have the steel and the feet are on their way. I can set up the frame for a run of cabinets, level it and fix it to the wall then drop the cabinets onto it. There will be drawers in the frame and the space normally wasted under the cabinets in the plinth will be used for those items that are necessary but are not used often. The plinth will screw to the steel frame which will have captive nuts.

The doors and draw front design is still not finalised but it will probably be made from the pippy oak tree I had planked a few years ago. Probably some kind of shaker style design.

So it will probably be a face frame kitchen. Quite a few details to finalise yet but I'm in no rush, as long as I get it done by next Christmas I will still have all my extremities intact

Cheers
Andy

 

[Terry - Somerset]

If you are going to use built in or under appliances you need to make sure you have the right internal dimensions.

Otherwise you may find cookers etc may not fit, doors wont line up with other units etc.

 

[Farmer Giles]

If you are going to use built in or under appliances you need to make sure you have the right internal dimensions.

Otherwise you may find cookers etc may not fit, doors wont line up with other units etc.

Thanks Terry
I'll measure up the existing dishwasher cabinet before disposal

Cheers
Andy

 

[dzj]

If you don't do this kind of work often, then buy the hardware first,
also the appliances, before making any cutlist for the ply.
Regarding standards and dimensions for interiors in general,
Panero & Zelnik's book is a good place to start (Human Dimension & Interior Space).