Kell III, perhaps the ultimate honing guide...

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Boz62":1py75t30 said:
Just to correct the correction :shock:.

The wheel axle axis is centred on the main brass plate in the Kell 3 ie it is all symmetrical. So the registration pins can go either side - you just reverse it before inserting the blade. Any projection setting jigs will still work the same.

And a fine piece of kit it is too :D.

Boz
Boz - quite correct...you can have a coupla three tonight as well then :lol: - Rob
 
Boz62":1b2s1hwy said:
Just to correct the correction :shock:.

The wheel axle axis is centred on the main brass plate in the Kell 3 ie it is all symmetrical. So the registration pins can go either side - you just reverse it before inserting the blade. Any projection setting jigs will still work the same.
Ahhh, wasn't aware that it was reversible, problem solved :D
 
TrimTheKing":yly73qfz said:
I think BB and Derek have missed the essence of Karl's question.

In truth, I wasn't quite sure what was being asked - hence my somewhat discursive treatise on various freehanding techniques.

A shotgun answer, if you like.

BugBear
 
Since this thread was started, I have corresponded with Rob (Woodbloke) a few times and made a small improvement to his rather nice set up.

I really like the Kell when used this way and the Veritas MK2 has remained in a drawer since. I measured the angles using the projections Richard Kell supplies and found them not always correct. I measured my own projections using the digital angle gauge shown below and they are listed here (Rob has them and I think uses them):

32 = 14.5m
30 = 18.5mm

35= 10.5mm
37 = 9mm

25 = 24mm
27 = 23m

20 = 44mm
22 = 36mm

Method of determining these is shown here:

227260_l.jpg



I put a little support on the front edge

99014_l.jpg



that supports the Kell before the blade is presented - much easier now

99017_l.jpg



And the whole thing sits nicely on my tablesaw next to the sharpening location. very easy to use

99015_l.jpg
 
Tony - thanks for that updated information. I now use the distances that you let me have and have altered the projection boards to included the little bit on the front to locate the guide...as you say, much easier to use - Rob
 
Tony":kkzzt2pq said:
And the whole thing sits nicely on my tablesaw next to the sharpening location. very easy to use

I always wondered what tablesaws were for ;-)

BugBear
 
bugbear":2d92qgxj said:
Tony":2d92qgxj said:
And the whole thing sits nicely on my tablesaw next to the sharpening location. very easy to use

I always wondered what tablesaws were for ;-)

BugBear

Isn't it obvious?
 
Tony, thanks for the figures - I was going to try drawing it to scale and then saw in a mag. the method you had used for setting the angles!

A while back Matthew emailed me a formulae he had worked out, but I could not get it to give Richard Kell's figures so gave up on it - perhaps my calculator was faulty?

Rod
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Back
Top