Just had to share this

[WonderWoman]

Cool, isnt uni a bit of a big commitment.
How would I earn my money for sweets and fizzy pop?

Ive had a look for classes but no joy, tho Il look into uni.

 

[WonderWoman]

Ive done a bit more soldering but its falling apart.I only seem to be getting it attached to the front of the piece, is it meant to run round to the back?!

 

[Losos]

WW - With a 5 mm rod and I assume a 'normal' 25W soldering iron it's most likely that the rod is absorbing heat quicker than your iron can provide it. Yes, the strongest 'joint' is one where the solder flows evenly all around two pieces being joined.

If 'structural' strength is not paramount, i.e. if the piece will hold together with just the front part soldered then don't worry about it.

If you want, or need, the join to be 'all around' then I would suggest a bigger soldering iron, or if you have a small gas torch (They make some really miniture ones now) you can aim the flame at the back of the join which should enable the solder to 'run'

To summarise, it seems like you need 'more' heat around the join, but 'less' heat further away on the joins you've already done. This was exactly the problem I had when I was an apprentice many many years ago. The experience is etched on my memory even now

 

[syntec4]

You could use this.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8822

Its a paste that is re-usable. You could put a blob on each side of the joint that you want to solder. It will keep the heat in the joint and not soften the other joints. It works great, I have used it for years when gas welding on old cars and hot rods.

I still am using the same tin I bought about 10 years ago. You just put it back in when you are done with it.

Lee.

 

[Losos]

Hi Lee,

I've heard of that stuff but not used it, sounds like the answer to many a prayer, wish it had been around thirty years back