JPT 310

[Waka]

Need a bit of help with my JPT 310, I can't seem to lay my hands on the manual and my tables need adjusting, there's a slight wobbly when the infeed is at its highest point, which I might add is a tad below the outfeed table.

All help appreciated

 

[Paul Chapman]

Blimey, Waka, I thought you'd be doing all your planing by hand now

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woof]

Hi Waka,
I have the JPT260 same manual covers this and the bigger models. I have both the parts list manual and the manual but cannot find directions other than "the planer tables are precisely aligned ex works.". My dealer had them all set for me I believe. Plenty of instructions on how to change the knives ... But there are parts diagrams for infeed and outfeed tables which I could scan for you if they will help???

Mark

 

[wizer]

I beleieve the main difference between the 260 and the 310 (apart from size) is that you can adjust the outfeed table on the 310. If the infeed is wobbling then I guess it is to do with the pads that the table sit on? These can be wound up or down to evenly balance at 4 points. If it's not this then it's beyond me.

 

[RichardC]

Waka

I suggest you go the US Jet site and download the manual for the JJPT12. It appears identical to the Jet 310 and is a far better manual in terms of adjustments than the UK manual. The link is http://woodworking.jettools.com/Products.aspx?Part=708475

Richard

 

[Waka]

Guys

Thanks for the info and the link to the US site for the manual, I've downloaded and will have a play tomorrow, hoefully it will be relatively straight forward, you know one of those 5 minute jobs.

Paul, surely I'm not expected to use hand tools on those long bits am I?

 

[WellsWood]

Waka

I suggest you go the US Jet site and download the manual for the JJPT12. It appears identical to the Jet 310 and is a far better manual in terms of adjustments than the UK manual. The link is http://woodworking.jettools.com/Products.aspx?Part=708475

Richard

Not sure what you mean by "wobbly" Waka, but that really is a much better manual than the one we get over here. It still leaves out an important adjustment though in that it doesn't detail the process of adjusting the tables to be coplanar in the other axis i.e. along their length rather than across their width.
This is acheived with the eccentric rods normally used to raise or lower the infeed (and in the case of the 310 only, the outfeed) table. You'll need to remove the front cover to access them, but if the pinchbolts in the clamps for the link arm (ecentric shaft bracket -item 18 on page 30) are loosened, then the eccentric rods can be rotated independantly by inserting a tommy bar or stout screwdriver into the central holes. This has the effect of tilting the table lengthways in relation to its counterpart.

Be cautious with this process, minute adjustments can have profound effects on planing results. Be sure you really need to to it before you begin and wherever possible apply index marks with white paint/ marker pen to anything you intend to adjust in case you need to put it back again.

It goes without saying (but i'll say it anyway :wink: ) that you need to have good test equipment, known straight-edge and feeler guages, dial guage etc. - a couple of thou out can accumulate into quite an error over multiple passes.

 

[Waka]

Mark

Thanks for that, when I mean wobbly I'm talking about the straight edge across the two tables, not sure whether its a problem with the in or outfeed.

I'll have a good read tomorrow, then I'll get the feeling as to whether I feel competent in doing any adjustment.

 

[woodbloke]

Paul, surely I'm not expected to use hand tools on those long bits am I?

Waka - no excuses now, you've got a nice long plane for the long bits :lol: - Rob

 

[OPJ]

I assume you've already checked there's not a small build up of sawdust anywhere under the contact points or where the tables hinge up/down? :roll: :wink:

 

[PaulO]

Interesting that the US manual recommends the outfeed should be set level with the top of the arc of the blade, where as the EU model provides a "carry-forward" stick to set the blades slightly higher than the outfeed.

 

[Waka]

I assume you've already checked there's not a small build up of sawdust anywhere under the contact points or where the tables hinge up/down? :roll: :wink:

Olly, I haven't checked yet but i will, thought I'd get to it today but other things have got in the way, I'll look stupid if it is just sawdust.

Paul, youhave a good point there regarding setting the blades, I have to say that whichever way its done the US manual is much better that the UK one. A lot must have got lost in translation.

 

[ivan]

Waka, this may also help (below) The table adjustments all interlink - tweak one and it upsets all the others - as I found to my cost when correcting a slight droop. I think the tower bolts that support the tables (operator side) have mild steel (?) domed heads prone to a bit of wear. The Felder uses the same rise / fall / adjustment system and the link shows the testing to be undertaken by the commisioning engineer. It helps if you do it in the right order....

http://www.davidpbest.com/VA/Stonehorse ... cklist.pdf

Best also sells a book to tell you how to self - commission (which I havn't got) There's also a Felder Owner's Group on Yahoo

 

[pinkyinboro]

silly question
is it on level ground
does it rock?
i have just got one today have not got the plug on yet

 

[Waka]

It is on level ground and movable on castors, I have sorted the problem out it just needed some fine adjustments.

 

[pinkyinboro]

what is the 310 like to change the blades?
never done a planner before
i used it for the first time today great machine