Jig making ply

[Graham Orm]

Not sure what you want this stuff for but some years ago I got hold of several sheets (random sizes approx. pallet size) of MDF covered both sides in a very thin laminate which I've been using over the years mainly when making jigs & the like. This stuff was packing from a laminate flooring company I happened to be passing, I think the place was in the Cheetham Hill area of Manchester and the stuff was free, they were glad to get rid of it.

There must be many other places with similar scrap they would be glad for you to remove for them.

Hope that helps,

regards

Brian

Thanks Brian. I'm on the other side of the city to Cheetham Hill, but it's something worth exploring.

 

[dan73]

Cheers ver helpful

 

[GLFaria]

does it have to be ply/mdf? Because Wickes sell MFC ie melamine faced chipboard with max thickness of 15mm. Hideous stuff I know but it is flat and true so useful for jigs. Also Arnold Laver (country wide) sell veneer'd mdf of various hardwoods in all the standard thicknesses.

Thanks Bob, but nah. Chipboard wont hold a screw. Thanks for the veneered MDF idea, I'll look into that.

...nor will MDF, for that matter, unless you use dowels in it to hold the screws. But I still prefer MDF, except for the fact that it makes a horrible dust and, worse still, blunts my handtools as fast as anything...

 

[Dissolve]

Course drywall screws take quite well in MDF, I've recently been using melamine faced mdf for jig making and find that course threaded drywall screws are great (but I'm usually gluing as well)

 

[fluffflinger]

If you need to get better hold for a screw in MDF or Chipboard. Use some epoxy to reinforce the joint.

I have owned boats for years and all marine fixings are either potted in epoxy or screw fixing stregthened by using it in the pilot hole.

Simply drill a pilot hole, warm your epoxy (to reduce viscosity and aid penetration) in a glass of hot water mix and drip into your pilot hole, wipe some more epoxy on the threads pop in your screw and voila after hardening you will have as secure a fixing as you would probably need for most applications. leaving the epoxy to penetrate for a few mins and then topping up the hole works best. Try to use the slowest setting epoxy you can, as a general rule the longer setting time means better ultimate strength but if all you've got is the 5minute stuff it still works, just doesn't penetrate as well as it just goes off too quickly.

Try it you will be truly amazed at the improvement and if you are a truly sad puppy buy and read this for all you need to know about epoxy (and plywood boat building) http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gougeon-Brothers-Boat-Construction-Materials/dp/0878121668 These boys cut their teeth laminating wooden blades for wind turbines!

 

[eoinsgaff]

For me the best option for jigs is a plastic/phenolic coated shuttering ply. This would be typically used to line steel framed forms and would be made from a high grade birch plywood. The surface would be flat, very smooth and well able to accept a fixing. There are a range of thicknesses available as well.

Wisaform is a good quality brand but most products should be more than acceptable.

 

[Graham Orm]

For me the best option for jigs is a plastic/phenolic coated shuttering ply. This would be typically used to line steel framed forms and would be made from a high grade birch plywood. The surface would be flat, very smooth and well able to accept a fixing. There are a range of thicknesses available as well.

Wisaform is a good quality brand but most products should be more than acceptable.

Thanks buddy :wink: