Jewellery Box

[bobscarle]

It seems that there are a lot of jewellery box's being made at the moment. So, if you will indulge me, here goes with some pictures of another. I am sorry about the WIP pictures, I only remember them after the event!

So here is my box, made for my daughter. The main wood is ash, the lid is walnut. Inside is leather. The finish is Chestnut lemon oil, as requested by the customer. All of the joinery is done by hand, dovetails and housings.

Hope you like it, she does, and I guess that is what counts!

Bob

 

[PowerTool]

Very nice,Bob;dovetails look excellent,and the walnut is a nice contrast against the ash

Andrew

 

[wizer]

eureka! I have been planning a jewellery box for ages but couldn't make up my mind on the lid. This gives me a good idea, it looks great!

 

[motownmartin]

Nice one Bob, the curved top, is done with planing and sanding or is there another method, also can give the dimensions of the box, these things always look massive without anything to judge it against, after all that table could be 6 feet in diameter for all I know :lol:

 

[OPJ]

Very nice and I'm sure your daughter will love it as well.

 

[bobscarle]

Martin

The table is not 6' in diameter, its 8.... :lol:

The box measures 300mm x 200mm x 130mm.

I made the curve by first producing a card template and tracing that on to each end piece, after the dovetails had been cut but before assembly. I the used a block plane to get down to the line. Once the box had been assembled and the lid cut to size, i traced the curve onto it. I used a smoothing plane go get close to the line, then fitted the lid and planned to fit. It had a quick sanding after just to break the sharp edges.

Bob

 

[motownmartin]

A good size then, i'm currently making some smaller ones about 175mm x 125mm x 100mm, i've still yet to design and manufacture some trays, I was thinking about 3mm or 4mm stock, got any thoughts :?

Thanks for the info Bob

 

[woodbloke]

Bob - good box with a sensible contrast in timbers used. I wouldn't have used steel(?) lay on hinges...a good pair of Brusso box hinges would have looked better IMO. I think I can also see a bit of cutter burn in the lid recess, always a problem if a router is used to do this sort of thing and very difficult to completely remove - Rob

 

[motownmartin]

I wouldn't have used steel(?) lay on hinges...a good pair of Brusso box hinges would have looked better IMO.

Cost can be an issue here Rob at £17 a pair against a few pence for the type Bob used, I do agree with you though and have succumb myself for the boxes I am making, a total of £68 for the 4 boxes :shock:

 

[bobscarle]

I have to say that the hinges are a little bit of a let down. I just struggled to find some I liked at a sensible price. Maybe they will be changed at a later date. I did like the Lee Valley pin hinges but found them a little too late to use.

OK. There's always one who spots a mistake Yes, I have a little cutter burn in the recess and as you say it is very hard to get rid of. I didn't want to sand any more for fear of spoiling it.

Bob

 

[woodbloke]

I have to say that the hinges are a little bit of a let down. I just struggled to find some I liked at a sensible price. Maybe they will be changed at a later date. I did like the Lee Valley pin hinges but found them a little too late to use.

OK. There's always one who spots a mistake Yes, I have a little cutter burn in the recess and as you say it is very hard to get rid of. I didn't want to sand any more for fear of spoiling it.

Bob

Hi Bob - I think you're right about the hinges, decent small hinges for boxes are rarer than hens teeth (Dan T let me have some really good ones a while back, but they're 50mm so only good for bigger projects) which is why I suggest the Brusso ones. Granted they are pricey, but will add to the project rather than detract from it.
Cutter burn that you've experienced is a nightmare and happens so easily. Here's a way that you might want to try to get rid of it. On another piece of ash, make an identical cut with some burning at the end...impossible to remove with sandpaper. Then get hold of a small, razor sharp gouge and carve the complete finger pull to leave a finish from the tool...don't sandpaper it all (this will be a pleasant contrast to the smooth surfaces of the rest of the box) Work 'downhill' from each end (ie with the grain) to carve away the burning. Once you've mastered the technique on the practice piece, alter the pull on the box. This is not a perfect solution by any means but does provide a way round the cutter burn and gives an extra interesting dimension to the project.
The problem with making a really good job like this and then leaving it with a couple of glaring defects is that eagle-eyed idiots like me will spot them, but even worse, you know they are there and it will irritate you :evil: beyond belief...or at least it would me - Rob

 

[Jake]

Or burn the rest of the recess, if you are feeling brave.

These hinges are pretty nice for ordinary old hinges, and go down to pretty small sizes (possible that they could even be the same (Hafele?) ones that Dan T gave to Woodbloke).
http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/Prod ... wn_Hinges/

 

[wizer]

Or burn the rest of the recess, if you are feeling brave.

How would one do that?

You could also paint or dye it, that would also require bravery.

 

[Jake]

Soldering iron sprang to mind.

 

[wizer]

I know the turners use similar techniques, I wonder if it could look good in non-spinney things. Tempted to play.

 

[bobscarle]

Rob.

I have just ordered a pair of Brusso stop hinges from Classic Hand Tools. These have cost over £20, more than the cost of the wood to make the box in the first place. They better look great when they are fitted. I will post another picture when complete.

The cutting out of the burn sounds better than burning the rest of the recess. Not sure I am brave enough for that. The only problem is I do not have a gouge to do it (are you listening Santa?) Could be forced into yet another visit to a tool online shop to look for one .

Bob

 

[woodbloke]

Rob.

I have just ordered a pair of Brusso stop hinges from Classic Hand Tools. These have cost over £20, more than the cost of the wood to make the box in the first place. They better look great when they are fitted. I will post another picture when complete.

The cutting out of the burn sounds better than burning the rest of the recess. Not sure I am brave enough for that. The only problem is I do not have a gouge to do it (are you listening Santa?) Could be forced into yet another visit to a tool online shop to look for one .

Bob

Bob - I don't think you'll regret the Brusso hinges.
For gouges, have a look at car booties or your local second hand tool emporium...you should be able to pick up something decent for about a fiver. It's worth getting hold of a suitable slip stone as well for the inside bevel which can be further refined by stropping with a piece of leather bent to a suitable curve (dress the leather with a cutting compound, Autosol would be good) The outside bevel can be sharpened by hand with a small stone and then stropped. Practice is the key...the gouge must be razor sharp to cut cleanly without leaving any wooly surface marks. Once you've got the hang of it on some practice material, modify the pull on the jewelry box...you won't find it too difficult. Keep us posted on your progress, with pics of course :lol: - Rob

 

[motownmartin]

Bob, the Brusso hinges are very good, i have just started to fit some today but I think I need some lessons I bought mine from John Lloyds there about a pound cheaper than classic hand tools.

 

[newt]

I was routing some very hard maple this afternoon and I knew it would burn at the steady feed rate that was essential to reduce breakout. So I just undercut on the first pass (lot of burns) buy a few thou, then at full depth of cut at much higher feed rate removed all trace of burns. Its usually a slow feed rate that does the burning.

 

[Mr Ed]

You won't regret the Brusso hinges. In my view they are the best and worth paying the premium for. They finish the piece and do justice to the hard work you have done on the rest of it.

Cheers, Ed