Jewellers Bench - WIP

[OPJ]

I was actually referring to the rails that your jig runs on, unless I've misunderstood your reply...!

 

[Chems]

I'm still not entirely clear what you mean, but the whole jig is one piece and it moves across the perfectly flat table below. Does that make any sense?

 

[OPJ]

Ah, now I see :roll: - you've done yours slightly differently to mine as you have a large, flat 'bench to reference off of (I didn't have this, at the time of building my workbench). So, you've what I call the 'jig' permanently to the rails... My rails were fixed to bearers running underneath the top and the 'jig' could slide freely along the top...

Forget what I said before then, it isn't an issue with the way you've done it! :wink:

 

[Chems]

 

[OPJ]

Looks like a job very well done. That contrast is indeed quite interesting. How many coats of all did the iroko take, in the end?

Roubo... What, you're building a new workbench??? :shock:

I look forward to seeing that! :wink:

 

[Chems]

It only took one liberal coating for that colour. Knocked it back with wire wool.

Workbenches by Chris Swartz arrived last week an I've been reading it as I want to build a proper bench and I like the look of the Roubo so will have to break the bank an buy tons of beech and get on with it. Chris Swartz likes using yellow pine, but I've had enough pine for a lifetime!

 

[OPJ]

Normally, you'd want at least two-or-three coats of oil to start with... The first coat (and sometimes the second) will get soaked and almost act as a 'sealer' for the following coats, which will really add to the finish. The great thing about oil finishes is that they're very easy to maintain and apply anyway. You could always add more coats in future. :wink:

Beech is generally regarded as a good choice but, to be perfectly honest, it's not the most stable or durable of hardwoods... :? I only used it because it was one of the cheaper native species' available in the sizes I required! :wink: Maple is generally regarded as a better choice, if you can find enough and justify the cost... Saying that, European beech should be even cheaper than the English stuff and you won't normally have to waste loads of waney-edges and sapwood... Steamed beech is generally available but, I have no idea how this differs to 'white' beech even though I've been meaning to find out for a while... :roll: My only thought (and I could be wrong!) is that it has been through a steaming process to improve stability... :?:

Again, I look forward to seeing this. One of the guys from college made one not long ago. Richard Maguire also has his own take on this design, in hardwood. :wink:

 

[Chems]

I did apply it liberally because I thought it would drink it up, but it didn't at all, I think its something to do with it been so old. See what the others say who have been using the Corby Iroko.

That one from the College isn't a Roubo thats the other one from the book which I think he calls the old english workbench design.

Defiantly beech for me its good an cheap!