jacubs chuck

[cowboy682]

Looking for advice on which jacubs chuck to buy for my Record lathe cl 2 x 36
thanks

 

[Orraloon]

Just a standard 13 or 16mm drill chuck with a morse taper to fit the lathe. I would go for a keyed rather than keyless but not everyone will agree with that.
Regards
John

 

[Paul Hannaby]

I would suggest you go for the 16mm chuck as the extra size comes in useful sometimes. Also, I prefer the keyless as they are easier to use, no key to lose and grip better than the keyed chucks.

 

[cowboy682]

thanks for the reply

 

[Sachakins]

+1 for 16mm

 

[Duncan A]

If you plump for a 16mm chuck make sure it will hold a 1mm drill bit. Some only go down to 3mm, which is annoying at times.
Chronos or RDG are good for such things.
Duncan

 

[Richard_C]

As above really, most drill bits are stepped so will fit a 13, I often use a 16mm stepped bit. The smaller chucks are often better with very small bits.

If you think you might ever want to run the chuck in the powered headstock end, get one with an internal thread in the more taper end, that way you can use a drawbar. Search for drawbar Jacobs chuck to get the idea. I think there have been a few posts on this forum.. Mine has the thread so it was a simple matter to use a length of threaded bar, a washer and a nut. If you get any sideways pressure on a more taper chuck, for example if you run a polishing wheel on the lathe, it can all precess out very quickly. If you will only use it in the tailstock, no worries because all the pressure is end on.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Duncan, you can use a pin chuck if you need to hold smaller drill bits. They are pretty cheap.

Richard, you don't need a drawbar if you are using the chuck in an application which is applying pressure back into the spindle - like when you are drilling!

 

[Richard_C]

Richard, you don't need a drawbar if you are using the chuck in an

Yes, understand that. I did point out that the risk came when you applied sideways pressure eg with a polishing wheel as an example. (Maybe you didn't read that far.)

 

[Duncan A]

Must confess, I hadn't thought of using a pin chuck but perhaps that's because my usual drlil chuck for lathe use goes down to 1mm so the issue only arises on those rare occasions that I want to use a 1mm drill in my pillar drill. The pillar drill chuck only goes down to 3mm.
A minor annoyance only!
Duncan

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Yes, understand that. I did point out that the risk came when you applied sideways pressure eg with a polishing wheel as an example. (Maybe you didn't read that far.)

I read all of it but your first sentence said "If you think you might ever want to run the chuck in the powered headstock end..."

 

[Vulcan]

As above really, most drill bits are stepped so will fit a 13, I often use a 16mm stepped bit. The smaller chucks are often better with very small bits.

If you think you might ever want to run the chuck in the powered headstock end, get one with an internal thread in the more taper end, that way you can use a drawbar. Search for drawbar Jacobs chuck to get the idea. I think there have been a few posts on this forum.. Mine has the thread so it was a simple matter to use a length of threaded bar, a washer and a nut. If you get any sideways pressure on a more taper chuck, for example if you run a polishing wheel on the lathe, it can all precess out very quickly. If you will only use it in the tailstock, no worries because all the pressure is end on.

Drill chucks are not designed to take side loads. Most drill chucks have a Jacobs or DIN taper in the body. This means that whilst a Morse taper arbor can be secured in the head stock with a draw bar, there’s nothing to stop the chuck coming off the shorter Jacobs or DIN taper. I’ve seen this happen several times on Pillar drills. A better option is to find a threaded chuck body or use a collet Chuck instead.

 

[steve355]

Drill chucks are not designed to take side loads. Most drill chucks have a Jacobs or DIN taper in the body. This means that whilst a Morse taper arbor can be secured in the head stock with a draw bar, there’s nothing to stop the chuck coming off the shorter Jacobs or DIN taper. I’ve seen this happen several times on Pillar drills. A better option is to find a threaded chuck body or use a collet Chuck instead.

True, but in practice they don’t come off even if you want them to, and you can swap the Jacob’s->mt adapter if you want to put it in another tailstock or arbor, which can be very useful.

 

[Vulcan]

True, but in practice they don’t come off even if you want them to, and you can swap the Jacob’s->mt adapter if you want to put it in another tailstock or arbor, which can be very useful.

I repeat, they can and do come off. As I said, I’ve seen it happen several times.