Jacobs Chuck

[wizer]

Hi Guys

I'm after a 2 MT Jacobs chuck for drilling on the lathe and also holding small items for turning.

Can anyone make a recommendation? Are they all about the same or are the cheap ones to be avoided?

Cheers

 

[jasonB]

The really vcheap ones can run a little off but for use on a wood lathe it probably wont make that much difference.

If using it in the headstock get a threaded arbor to take a draw bar so there is no chance of it comming out of the taper, a length of studding with a nut & washer will do as a drawbar. When using in the tailstock fit a short length of studding or even a short bolt so it can be ejected when the tailstock is withdrawn.

Some of the engineering suppliers will likely have a bigger choice than woodworking outlets. Are you going keted or keyless?

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/

http://www.mscjlindustrial.co.uk/cgi/in ... code=HER40 (use the virtual catalogue, its easier to navigate than just searching the site)

Jason

 

[wizer]

I'm thinking that keyed is better in this application?

I'll go and do some research.

Cheers

 

[Jenx]

Tom, I got one from Axminster not that long ago ... for the MT2 Adapter and chuck together I don't think I was £15.

As Jason Says, its probably sufficient for working on a wood lathe...
I don't have any hassle with it, and I've had it and used it for about a year.

HTH 8) :wink:

 

[PowerTool]

Same here - got the Axminster one,does all I need it to.

Andrew

 

[TEP]

Got 3 - 2MT and 1 - 1MT 1/2"/13mm chucks all from here they work fine on my pillar drill and on the lathes. Never found any problems with them running out, and I've got some crap drill bits.

PS - I'm wiv' Jason on using a Jacobs chuck for holding small work in the head stock, use a draw bar. Although I haven't tried it, it wouldn't surprise me if it was possible to drill and tap the back end of these cheaper arbours.

One thing I will say, I have never had any joy using a Jacobs chuck to hold small work unless the spigot is the full depth of the jaws. Tends to crush the wood and it goes slack all the time.

I see you bought a tap to fit your lathe nose threads, why don't you look at the possibility of making sets of wooden collets to hold small work.

 

[tekno.mage]

Like Tam, I bought a cheap 2MT Jacobs chuck from Proops and it works just fine in both lathe & pillar drill.

tekno.mage

 

[Richard Findley]

The really cheap ones can run a little off but for use on a wood lathe it probably wont make that much difference.

I think there is a common mis-conception that, because woodturning isn't high precision like metal turning/engineering, we should be happy with kit that doesn't run true. If something doesn't run true you will never get the results you want, which will lead to frustration and offen to giving up in woodturning.

Now I'll be the first to tell you that high precision in woodworking is pointless beyond a mm or so, lets face it, this is a material that can move 1/4" because its a bit cold and wet :evil: !!

Buy good quality stuff, no matter what you buy. As previously commented you won't go far wrong with the Axminster http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21238&name=drill+chuck&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0 although I'm sure I paid more like £25 for mine from there!!

Cheers,

Richard

 

[CHJ]

One cost effective way of stocking up on accessories like jacobs type chucks is to visit one of the bigger woodworking or a model engineering show.
There you will usually find stalls by Chronos, RDG, GMTools and a few other shall we say lower end Market stall type shifters of tools.

A few minutes sorting though the boxes of Chucks arbors etc. selecting for smooth working and lack of excessive play can save enough to cover entry fees and does wonders for the self satisfaction stakes.

Mind you I regularly use a 13mm chuck that came with my cheap pillar drill in my lathe tailstock, caused no end of niggles when mounted on the drill, no problem whatsoever with runout but the slack fitting actuating sleeve caused rotational vibration, but of course this is of no consequence in a tailstock

 

[dickm]

The other source of (very often) high quality stuff like that is Steam Fairs, Vintage tractor/Classic car rallys etc. You need to know what you are looking for, but generally, since they are aiming to sell to people who know their engineering, the stuff on the "market-stalls" is good.

 

[wizer]

Thanks guys. Funds dictate the Proops version. However, I will continue to look out at boot fairs and shows for others. I'd like a larger capacity one, especially if I get around to make faceplates with the M33 tap that I bought.

 

[TEP]

Doubt you'll find much bigger around Tom. If you go anywhere above the ½”/13mm capacity your looking at big money.

20mm £38 - £46 + VAT and you won't find it on a MT. Anything over a ½” drill you tend to get as a MT drill bit. Or buy a set of 'Blacksmith' drills with the narrow mount end similar to fostner bits. No doubt someone can come up with a huge chuck, but certainly not a everyday type one we use.

 

[wizer]

hmm I wonder how I'm going to use that big tap then. It's a 19mm shank. I guess by hand using some sort of support post.

 

[CHJ]

The normal method is to use a Tap wrench with the tailstock centre located in the tap rear centre to keep it aligned. (your tap does have a standard centre I presume?)

 

[jasonB]

you can get a 20mm chuck for £19 plus about £4 for an MT2 arbour from RDG.

http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/DRIL ... URS__.html

But as said its better to guide big taps with a tailstock ctr using a tap wrench to stop it turning while rotating the workpiece by hand If you don't have a big tap wrench then an adjustable spanner will do.

Jason

 

[wizer]

Thanks Chas, Jason. Makes perfect sense.

Just checked and the tap does indeed have a dimple in the top. Will have a go at this next weekend.

 

[TEP]

Good find on that big chuck Jason.