I've made one too.......

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woodbloke

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Went over to Newt's yesterday and he kindly let me have some 4mm set screw bolts so I could finish the plane. Made in Cuban Mahogany with a Rosewood sole and deeply screwed and counterbored inset mouth for easy adjustment. Blade is set at 55deg and unlike the Record No4 which I haven't tested 8-[ this one takes beautifull shavings off hard rosewood. The bolt is after the style of Derek of Oz and locks down the blade very securely, 1/8th of a turn to hold it and a further 1/8th to tighten it. Those at the MiniBash on 09 Jun can have a play and will also take it to NickW BiggerBash on 01 Sept. Hope you like this latest sawdusty effort - Rob

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Now lookee here, Rob, you've got to get into the habit of showing these things with the shavings dammit. [-X :lol: And incidentally that #4 better be out of the airing cupboard on Saturday... :wink:

Just as well I have zero w'shop time or I'd be frittering it away under these terrible influences. Very nice. :D

Cheers, Alf
 
Tony":10klvid2 said:
Nice job Rob. Did you make the blade and metalwork or buy them?

Tony - all metalwork, blade, bolt and cap iron made in the 'shop, nothing bought - Rob
 
woodbloke":p7106pic said:
Tony":p7106pic said:
Nice job Rob. Did you make the blade and metalwork or buy them?

Tony - all metalwork, blade, bolt and cap iron made in the 'shop, nothing bought - Rob

Superb!!! :D

Bet the brass work was a pain :?

Just getting my blade surface ground to see if there is an improvement - then I'll be following the second hand tool market closely :wink:
 
Tony wrote:
Bet the brass work was a pain
Tony - too right, lot of sweat generated on a warm day hacksawing to shape, but worth doing I think.....am quite chuffed with the end result and she do work well - Rob
 
Looks amazing. Well done, Rob, she's a beauty. What did you finish the wood with?

Oh, and could either you or Tony maybe outline how you go about making a blade - is a surface grinder or something involved to flatten the back?
 
Glad you like the plane, finished with a single coat of finishing oil but I'm going to put a coupla more coats on in the next day or two.
Blade is made from some 3mm gauge plate hardened and tempered by Newt when he was round my w'shop last. The back was then flattened on a course DMT for the first 20mm and then ground to 25deg on the Tormek and finally honed on a fine DMT stone/strop....'ruler trick' used as well on the flat side - Rob
 
Sounds interesting. Did you have much work to do on the coarse DMT stone to get the back flat or was the plate pretty flat to begin with? Also does it not take a long time to remove all the metal required to get a 25 degree bevel on a Tormek? I thought slow wet grinders were better at final polishing but weren't up to much serious steel removal. Well, not quickly anyway.

I suppose now that you've mastered wooden plane making you'll be moving on to casting metal ones? :wink:
 
woden":1027y2pg said:
Sounds interesting. Did you have much work to do on the coarse DMT stone to get the back flat or was the plate pretty flat to begin with? Also does it not take a long time to remove all the metal required to get a 25 degree bevel on a Tormek? I thought slow wet grinders were better at final polishing but weren't up to much serious steel removal. Well, not quickly anyway.

I suppose now that you've mastered wooden plane making you'll be moving on to casting metal ones? :wink:

Took about 20 mins to flatten the back on the coarse DMT and about 10 to grind the primary bevel. The Tormek stone is intended primarily to grind and maintain this bevel and it cuts fairly rapidly...you need to speak to Philly about casting metal plane bodies :wink: :lol: - Rob
 
woodbloke":157s6zgi said:
woden":157s6zgi said:
Sounds interesting. Did you have much work to do on the coarse DMT stone to get the back flat or was the plate pretty flat to begin with? Also does it not take a long time to remove all the metal required to get a 25 degree bevel on a Tormek? I thought slow wet grinders were better at final polishing but weren't up to much serious steel removal. Well, not quickly anyway.

I suppose now that you've mastered wooden plane making you'll be moving on to casting metal ones? :wink:

Took about 20 mins to flatten the back on the coarse DMT and about 10 to grind the primary bevel. The Tormek stone is intended primarily to grind and maintain this bevel and it cuts fairly rapidly...you need to speak to Philly about casting metal plane bodies :wink: :lol: - Rob

Rob, I grind the primary bevel on a standard 6" grindstone and sometimes even start it off with an angle grinder before hardening and tempering - much faster mate (circa 2 minutes) and might be worth trying on plane number 2 - you know you'll be makig more :wink: :lol:
 
Yeah, I would have assumed that a high or moderate speed dry grinder would have been faster. So you do all the grinding when the steel is 'soft' and then temper the thing afterwards? I take it tempering doesn't destort the shape in any way and unflatten the back?

woodbloke":35msx2dh said:
...you need to speak to Philly about casting metal plane bodies :wink: :lol:
Seriously, is there a thread anywhere showing his work?
 
That thumb plane is a really impressive effort. I admire your dedication and skill.

So, can we expect Philly planes on the market any time soon? :wink:
 
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