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joethedrummer

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Hello good woodspinners

I am getting as much fun from making the tools as I am using them,,,

Latest effort is a 0.050inch thick parting tool,,,what do you think ???

Possible cause is I was a engineering production engineer way back.

,,,,joe,,,
 

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Hi

Nice looking tool - however at 50 thou its a little on the thin side for my liking, I'd be concerned over it flexing / twisting in use. Also the fact that it is so thin may lead it to mark the toolrest.

Regards Mick
 
What thickness would you suggest ?
I used what I had to hand,, I have Youtubed and Eddie Castelin uses 0.0625 in;,, I will try it out and see how I get on,, next post from the local hospital !!!!!
Real good to find out what you all think.
,,,,joe,,,
 
Hi Spindle,,,,
Would you believe ,I made some tool rests from tool steel and I hope they are not spoiled by the parting tool,, but hey ho,, let "s see what happens,,
Why do I do it ? I ask myself often,,,
,,,joe,,,
 
Hi woodspinners,,,,
Hope you all have had as much fun as I have had today,,,,

Got to using the thin parting tool,, an" hey Spindle it does flex a bit ,,I think it also might want some side clearance "cos it started to "bind up" when I got it about an inch and a bit deep,,,

Created my second pot as a gift to the lady who gave me the apple wood,,,, she said it was destined for their woodburner,, (the applewood,, not the pot,,I hope )

The lid was going to have a bead on the knob but my partner the "dig in" prevailed so no bead appeared,, better luck next time maybe,,,

Wish I had retired years ago,,

,,,,joe,,,,,
 

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Hi Joe,

Nice pot. Retirement is to be greatly recommended. I sent you a PM if you could take a look.
 
Where did you get the steel for such a thin blade? I'd like to make my own parting tool too, the one I have seems a little broad for some things, and prone to binding in the cut - some of that is undoubtedly beginner's mistakes.

Lovely lidded box. Parting tool made a good job of keeping the grain matching too! Is that a friction polish finish.

Nic.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
 
When parting off, run a secondary slot down the side of the first as you go to prevent binding, don't try and cut the slot all the way in one go unless it is a pretty narrow piece of wood.
For short gouges wide hacksaw blades are often used.

Pete
 
nicguthrie":1sevt9a6 said:
Where did you get the steel for such a thin blade? I'd like to make my own parting tool too, the one I have seems a little broad for some things, and prone to binding in the cut - some of that is undoubtedly beginner's mistakes.

Lovely lidded box. Parting tool made a good job of keeping the grain matching too! Is that a friction polish finish.

Nic.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

Another way too part off is to sway the parting tool from left to right as you cut in this makes a slot slightly wider than the tool witch also prevents binding. This movemant does not need to be a lot just enough to help with the parting
 
Woodyturner's home made thin parting tool
- make-your-own-thin-parting-tool-t64760.html

& my poor effort at the end of this thread
- two-questions-drilling-hss-lathe-lubrication-t62152.html

As has already been said, slightly wiggle the handle from side to side (fishtail), or tilt the top of the blade slightly left & right (more difficult to control) both of which will produce a wider slot or, especially with an extra thin parting tool, run a second slot along side the first. Practice with a standard width parting tool first then transfer your newly honed skills to the thin tool.

When you get really good you can cut at an angle to produce a piece with a ready made concave base.
 
Hello woodspinners,,,,

winemaker,,it was a 12 inch Starrett machine saw blade so it"s about an inch wide,,,

Spindle,, I reground it as you suggested an it works a lot better,,thanks,,

procell,,thanks and I PM",,d you an I hope that is helpful,,

nicguthrie,, thanks,, the finish is a couple of coats of Liberon paste wax over cellulose sanding sealer,,that is what I use most times,,

,,,joe,,,
 

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