Is this goodbye to my trusty Makita?

[MayKitt]

Not sure exactly how long I've had it but 25-30 years could be a guess. The £/year of service figure is very good! However, my trusty pal has now developed a fault that I can't find my way out of and would appreciate some help.

My Makita P2071F has a jammed chuck with a masonry bit lodged in it. It has one of those ratchet-type tightening chucks for universal drill bits and I can't get it undone not even with gas-plyers. Is it the end of the road for my old pal? If I could somehow undo the chuck and release the bit, can I replace the chuck? Not being one to throw away tools that are repairable, I would like to see if I can get it back to a usable state. The motor is running fine. So what's to do? Can I repair it or should I cut my losses and buy a new drill. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

?

 

[TRITON]

Try placing it facing into a bowl of diesel, thats got a good penetrating effect, might help shift whatever is causing it to jam if its internal rust or something (Though I hear diesel's at a premium currently ,,otherwise its at least going to act as a lubricant which might make it easier to turn.
NOTE - Metal on metal, as in the waterpump pliers on the chuck probably will slip anyway, try something like some rubber in between. Or maybe something like a constrictor strap. These are well known for undoing notoriously tight oil filters.

 

[Sandyn]

I have used two mole grips before to undo one of these ratchet chucks. They really get stuck. I think when they get worn something happens when you drill to lock it up. I can hand tighten my chuck, but need mole grips to open it.
Grip as tight as possible with mole grips in the two parts of the chuck, Some mole grips have really well defined teeth which bite into the metal. I would also try a stailchon wrench, the harder you turn, the more they bite. I found what really helped was the angle of one mole grip to the other. If they are as close as possible in a radial direction, but just enough to get your hands gripping, perhaps 10 degrees, you can get really good purchase on it. Soaking in diesel works really well. That was used on the farm a lot, but lots of diesel about. Toolstation sell penetrating oil. I found it worked very well on my cast iron planer to free up shafts. Could also try heating before penetrating oil. watch it doesn't catch fire!
If all that didn't work, I would attack it with a cutting disk!

 

[clogs]

gently tapping the side of the chuck can help but the other side of the chuck needs to rest on something solid like the corner of ur bench.....

just wish I could replace the chuck on my 90degree Hitachi.....
I just cant get it to move....tried with a large Allen wrench etc etc...
must try to find a repair shop......
this is what ya get when u lend out stuff, the ***** damage most/all the teeth on the chuck.....

 

[Inspector]

The chuck should thread onto the shaft of the drill. I would carefully start grinding off the chuck until it comes apart. Then you can either try to unscrew the chuck (I don't know what direction the thread is) or continue to carefully grind it off until the chuck piece is thin enough to split off. Taking metal off both sides should make it easier to crack. Do it right and the drill shaft threads should be clean and ready for a new chuck for another 25 to 30 years of use.

Pete

 

[Adam W.]

Slice the front of the chuck off with a disc cutter, then you don't run the risk of damaging any threads.

 

[Rorschach]

I would be very surprised if the chuck didn't use a standard threaded fitting such as 1/2"-20 or 3/8"-24.

I had a stuck chuck on a combi drill, I used a combination of angle grinder, hack saw and dremel and I managed to remove it with no damage to drill other that the tiniest of nicks on the threaded spindle so with care it can definitely be done. If the drill is good and you still want to use it then it's a worthwhile thing to do.

 

[okeydokey]

There is probably a flat on the shaft between the chuck and the body if there is get a spanner onto it then put Mole grips or Stilsons or suchlike on the chuck and simply unscrew the chuck from the shaft - then treat yourself to a new chuck as even if you can dislodge the drill bit somehow it will happen again unless you find some grit or suchlike that jammed the jaws and its now clear.
Anyway the old chuck will be nasty to hold with the mole grips and suchlike marks

 

[Adam W.]

There is a flat on the spindle, I thought there might be a screw in the end of the spindle which is why I said cut the end of the chuck off.

 

[screwpainting]

This might help...

https://www.partshopdirect.co.uk/makita-hp2071f-13mm-2speed-percussion-drill-spare-parts-s10739/
That new chuck ain't cheap.

 

[Blister]

At £72 for a new chuck it looks like time for a new Toy Opps! ---- drill

 

[HamsterJam]

Have you have tried hitting the chuck moderately hard on the side while resting against something solid like an anvil. The shock can sometimes budge whatever crud is jamming it up.

 

[MayKitt]

Thanks for the replies folks. I'll try some of the solutions you suggest. Yes, ouch! on the price. I'll price up the current equivalent of a 1,000W Makita hammer drill at some time to see how the comparison works out.

 

[stuart little]

There must be alternative chucks out there, not necessarily China rip offs.

 

[MayKitt]

Just to update this one. Securing the chuck in an engineer's vice and giving it a moderate clunk with a lump hammer, assisted by copious releasing oil has released the jammed mechanism and the masonry bit has been released. My old pal is back! Taking this forward I will now do a search for a replacement chuck at a reasonable price.

The releasing oil flushed out some rusty deposits so clearly, all was not well inside the chuck. The spindle has two flats on it, presumably for engaging a spanner and unscrewing the chuck. After all these years and all that work, I expect more releasing oil will be needed at this stage! I'm guessing that Makita does a spanner to fit the spindle. It can only be about 5mm thick to fit in the small gap between the chuck and the body of the drill so sourcing an appropriate spanner to fit will be one of my next tasks as well.

Thanks again for all the replies.

 

[mikej460]

if you've got access to a bench grinder you could grind a suitable spanner down?

 

[baldkev]

Find your thread size and pitch, then go on ebay. I got a clearance (new) 13mm chuck for my morticer for 6 quid! I bought a cheap of first to make sure it fits and will get an better one if it fails. It fitted and has been good so far

 

[user 35906]

I bought a new genuine Makita (steel not plastic) keyless chuck for £8.80 on Ebay last year and was so impressed when it arrived that I imediately ordered another one as did my son.

 

[MayKitt]

Thanks for all the replies and advice.

What I eventually did,,,,

1. Purchased a set of 7 double-ended slim (3mm thick) open-ended spanners to sneak in between the chuck and drill body to secure the spindle. (£12 on eBay).
2. Loads of releasing oil.
3. Tried a spanner and Mole grips on the chuck but 30 years of hammer drilling beat me. It wouldn't move and the inner tightening ring distorted a little under the Mole grip's pressure.
4. Held the entire chuck in an engineer's vice and with a soft-faced hammer tapping the spanner on the spindle persuaded the spindle to turn a tad tighter and then looser and off came the chuck.
5. Measured the spindle thread pitch.
6. Purchased a replacement chuck on eBay (£7.99) which is on its way now.

There was a Makita chuck on eBay for £21 so I will see if I made a wise choice sometime in the future! Still, the job is done for now so thanks again.