Is it worth trying to repair these Teak chairs?

[Shoestring restorer]

Hi k

 

[Shoestring restorer]

Hi all.

Yes I know you aren't supposed to jet wash but they have Ducks back on them and I don't have a spare year to sand it off.

I have 4 that are relatively intact and 2 that would require purchasing some teak and a lot of tennoning. Probably I'll need to take good legs off them and replace to the better ones. There are 3 legs in total that have rotted inside. As if they have been sat in a puddle for many years.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Jacob]

Hi all.

Yes I know you aren't supposed to jet wash but they have Ducks back on them and I don't have a spare year to sand it off.

I have 4 that are relatively intact and 2 that would require purchasing some teak and a lot of tennoning. Probably I'll need to take good legs off them and replace to the better ones. There are 3 legs in total that have rotted inside. As if they have been sat in a puddle for many years.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Waste of time paint stripping. Fix, fill, paint again.

 

[Shoestring restorer]

Waste of time paint stripping. Fix, fill, paint again.

I'm feeling that.

What about Shou Sugi Ban?

 

[Shoestring restorer]

Which brings my next question. Will filler show obviously or cause any problems with Shou Sugi Ban scorching? Hmm

 

[Jacob]

I'm feeling that.

What about Shou Sugi Ban?

Good idea!
Work over it with a blow torch. Friends of mine did that with some crude redwood cupboards they made and then torched, followed by rub down and paint finish. Worked quite well and they sold a few.

 

[Shoestring restorer]

Good idea!
Work over it with a blow torch. Friends of mine did that with some crude redwood cupboards they made and then torched, followed by rub down and paint finish. Worked quite well and they sold a few.

Thanks. I'm wondering how Ronseal 2 part wood filler will like being torched. I'll do a test sample.

I have a few small parts that need complete replacing and tennonising (is that a word) I wonder if using Oak instead of Teak would hurt being as I plan to torch the timber? Obviously Teak is very expensive even for small parts.

 

[Jacob]

Thanks. I'm wondering how Ronseal 2 part wood filler will like being torched. I'll do a test sample.

I have a few small parts that need complete replacing and tennonising (is that a word) I wonder if using Oak instead of Teak would hurt being as I plan to torch the timber? Obviously Teak is very expensive even for small parts.

Ordinary redwood is good for torching as the soft grain burns faster and you end up with a very rustic grainy surface. If you paint it you can rub off the high points and bring out the grain, with paint in the hollows.
Don't think it would pass as high end cabinet making - they are very picky!

 

[thetyreman]

imo teak is far too nice looking a timber to burn it, in japan they use japanese cedar for shou sugi ban and it's for house carpentry, I've done it with redwood pine on some outdoor furniture to make it last longer, but I'd feel really bad about doing it on teak.

 

[Shoestring restorer]

Ordinary redwood is good for torching as the soft grain burns faster and you end up with a very rustic grainy surface. If you paint it you can rub off the high points and bring out the grain, with paint in the hollows.
Don't think it would pass as high end cabinet making - they are very picky!

Not really bothered about that. Just trying to turn around an item that I paid £130 for 6 chairs with cushions and a table and make it look nice and a few hundred quid

imo teak is far too nice looking a timber to burn it, in japan they use japanese cedar for shou sugi ban and it's for house carpentry, I've done it with redwood pine on some outdoor furniture to make it last longer, but I'd feel really bad about doing it on teak.

I do agree but this has been painted with Ducks Back wax enriched preserver and god knows how many times it's been jet washed before. To restore it would be massively time consuming.

 

[recipio]

As far as I know the ancient art of shou sugi ban relies on the resin in softwoods turning into a kind of 'caramel ' under heat. I doubt if the teak contains much resin at this stage. If you want to use them outdoors I think the best option is a few coats of one of the black wood preservatives like Sadolins . They will need at least a week to allow them to dry out however. To keep costs down I would just use some Iroko to splice in new legs - the stain will cover them anyway.

 

[Shoestring restorer]

As far as I know the ancient art of shou sugi ban relies on the resin in softwoods turning into a kind of 'caramel ' under heat. I doubt if the teak contains much resin at this stage. If you want to use them outdoors I think the best option is a few coats of one of the black wood preservatives like Sadolins . They will need at least a week to allow them to dry out however. To keep costs down I would just use some Iroko to splice in new legs - the stain will cover them anyway

Awesome feedback. I hadn't considered that fact.

This is a larger project so I am going to continue to think on it. I have a pine bookshelf that will look great charred. And I also have Osmo oil.

If I was going to char the Teak for outdoor use I was going to have to buy Polyurethane oil which at the moment I can't afford.

Thanks again.

 

[rob1693]

Sho sugi ban or yakisugi if known by its proper name works really well with resinous Woods here's a couple of stools and a planter just finished with blo after burning

 

[Ed Weber]

Have you though about soda-blasting as a way to strip them down so you know whats under the finish.
Just a suggestion

 

[eribaMotters]

Just jet wash the black treacle off, cut new bits of teak in and leave. It will go a nice grey and if it is teak could well outlive you without any form of treatment.

Colin

 

[thetyreman]

Not really bothered about that. Just trying to turn around an item that I paid £130 for 6 chairs with cushions and a table and make it look nice and a few hundred quid

I do agree but this has been painted with Ducks Back wax enriched preserver and god knows how many times it's been jet washed before. To restore it would be massively time consuming.

I see your point, but seeing as you've already kind of half stripped/sanded off the paint, it wouldn't be much more work to bring it back to the original surface, I'd use a power sander and have at it.

 

[okeydokey]

Ive never tried the charring something you've made but maybe I will try on some scrap wood. Does the "charcoal" come off onto clothes?

 

[Shoestring restorer]

I see your point, but seeing as you've already kind of half stripped/sanded off the paint, it wouldn't be much more work to bring it back to the original surface, I'd use a power sander and have at it.

I'm contemplating having it as a side project and using it myself and just slowly restoring it properly and then PU sealing it and looking after it and just keeping it for myself. I will have to hand tenon multiple pieces and scarf joint or brass rod about 5 legs plus sand the bejesus out of it. All under a gazebo. Will take just too long to make actual money I think but it'll look great in the end so will do it on the side and turn around smaller faster bits. Got a pine book case in the works

Ive never tried the charring something you've made but maybe I will try on some scrap wood. Does the "charcoal" come off onto clothes?

You have to char it with a roaring flame and then blow it off and/ or wipe it down. Let it dry and oil to finish depending on the look you want.
.

 

[jcassidy]

I'm contemplating having it as a side project and using it myself and just slowly restoring it properly and then PU sealing it and looking after it and just keeping it for myself.

Some projects are a winner, some are a loser and you get rid of them or sell on as-us, and some you keep for a bit before selling on.

I had a beautiful '60s dining table and chairs that I ended up redoing completely at significant effort,, so I kept it for a few years until the family outgrew it and then I rehomed with a doctor for a tidy sum, happy out.

I would do a decent job with iroko and stain, as has been suggested, and keep for myself, seeking in time for next year's good weather...