Is a planer / thicknesser worth the money ?

[wizer]

My personal opinion on the AW106PT is that it's a bit of a faff to convert between modes. You have to take the guard and fence off, put them somewhere, then flip one table up, wind down the table, flip round the dx chute.... and then reverse the process when you realise one length of wood is not properly jointed....

For me, this added mucking about led me to plump a bit higher and get one which was less stress. Of course I had to consider my back problems with taking the fence on and off, but even still, I felt it would grate on me.

Go and see the machines and ask to see how they change from one mode to another. That way you can decide for yourself.

Oh and I also didn't get a P/T specifically to save money on wood. It was, as above, to have ultimate control over thickness/squareness/straightness.

 

[motownmartin]

My personal opinion on the AW106PT is that it's a bit of a faff to convert between modes. You have to take the guard and fence off, put them somewhere, then flip one table up, wind down the table, flip round the dx chute.... and then reverse the process when you realise one length of wood is not properly jointed....

For me, this added mucking about led me to plump a bit higher and get one which was less stress. Of course I had to consider my back problems with taking the fence on and off, but even still, I felt it would grate on me.

Go and see the machines and ask to see how they change from one mode to another. That way you can decide for yourself.

Oh and I also didn't get a P/T specifically to save money on wood. It was, as above, to have ultimate control over thickness/squareness/straightness.

It only takes a few mins to change over but if I had to buy again I think I would go for seperates, either way well worth the money.

 

[LarryS.]

My personal opinion on the AW106PT is that it's a bit of a faff to convert between modes. You have to take the guard and fence off, put them somewhere, then flip one table up, wind down the table, flip round the dx chute.... and then reverse the process when you realise one length of wood is not properly jointed....

For me, this added mucking about led me to plump a bit higher and get one which was less stress. Of course I had to consider my back problems with taking the fence on and off, but even still, I felt it would grate on me.

Go and see the machines and ask to see how they change from one mode to another. That way you can decide for yourself.

Oh and I also didn't get a P/T specifically to save money on wood. It was, as above, to have ultimate control over thickness/squareness/straightness.

It only takes a few mins to change over but if I had to buy again I think I would go for seperates, either way well worth the money.

Like you guys say, I'll see one before I buy but like the idea of a machine which takes up less space, but will weigh that up against usability

 

[Digit]

Space is definitely an issue in my shop, as always, but I have separates and put up with moving them to use them, 'cos a Rich says it's a right pain if you miss a piece, (one job I did had 96 pieces) or something goes wrong you never seem to get the same size second time around. And like Rich I enjoy planing, pity I can't do it as accurately as a thicknessor, but the finish is better.

Roy.

 

[Digit]

The Charnwood for 20 quid? My mum was right, it's better to be lucky than Rich!!!
Sorreee!

Roy.

 

[OPJ]

My personal opinion on the AW106PT is that it's a bit of a faff to convert between modes. You have to take the guard and fence off, put them somewhere, then flip one table up, wind down the table, flip round the dx chute.... and then reverse the process when you realise one length of wood is not properly jointed....

For me, this added mucking about led me to plump a bit higher and get one which was less stress. Of course I had to consider my back problems with taking the fence on and off, but even still, I felt it would grate on me.

Go and see the machines and ask to see how they change from one mode to another. That way you can decide for yourself.

Oh and I also didn't get a P/T specifically to save money on wood. It was, as above, to have ultimate control over thickness/squareness/straightness.

I agree with you to some extent but, unless you're prepared to pay a lot more (thinking of the Jet machines, I think?) you probably won't find a P/T where you don't have to remove the fence. Without going for old cast iron, of course.

Actually, you don't have to remove the bridge guard assembly at all. I find it quite happily swings down and out of the way.

The reason I like having planer and a thicknesser in one machine is because you get the extra capacity for jointing boards that the wouldn't get on a standalone planer without paying some very serious cash. But again, that depends on your needs.

If you've got the space, by all means, go for seperate machines. I don't seem having to switch back and forth between the two modes as being as much of a problem when you're not trying to run a business, as frustrating as it still can be at times.

Depending on what you've already got, you may also want a new, more powerful extractor, too.

 

[LarryS.]

actually my 'extractor' is currently a knackered old vacuum cleaner, so its going to be two purchases when I do get the p/t, recommendations appreciated

 

[bob_c]

I used to have a dewalt dw50 P/T which i thought was very good,you can find them on ebay quite often.I used it alot until a leak in the roof got into the motor an wrecked it.I now use the aw106pt ,a good machine,though i do have problems with the feed after 6 years.

 

[OPJ]

Going back to the cost of buying PAR again if you look here on Interesting Timbers' site you will get a good idea of how much you can save be buying sawn and preparing it yourself.

Bear in mind also that, they class Hobby timber as having two square-edges, sawn. If you click on the Trade timber link, you'll be able to work out that it's even cheaper still to buy as waney-edged boards and do a little extra work yourself. You already have a table saw so, you're more than capable of dealing with it.

 

[LarryS.]

Going back to the cost of buying PAR again if you look here on Interesting Timbers' site you will get a good idea of how much you can save be buying sawn and preparing it yourself.

Bear in mind also that, they class Hobby timber as having two square-edges, sawn. If you click on the Trade timber link, you'll be able to work out that it's even cheaper still to buy as waney-edged boards and do a little extra work yourself. You already have a table saw so, you're more than capable of dealing with it.

consider me sold. now i've got to work on the person in charge