Iroko query

[StevieB]

I have managed to scrounge from the skip at work approx 30 boards of Iroko. These were skirting board and range in size from 3 feet to over 6 feet in length. All are of approx 3/4 inch thick and 4 inches wide. The only downside is every 15 inches or so is a hole where they were screwed to the wall. These are offset alternately. I am therefore left with a maximaum unblemished piece of timber of approx 30 inches long by approx 3 inches wide, or 15 inches long by 4 inches wide.

I know Iroko causes a reaction in some people, although it doesnt seem to have had any effect on me with respect to the bits I have cleaned up to date. My question is, does this reaction occour only in the natural timber, dust and shavings? The size of the pieces lend themselves to box making ideally, and there is some lovely grain pattern on some of the pieces. Is making boxes from Iroko a bad idea if the are fully finished? Any recommended finish to ensure they don't cause a reaction in the future if someone handles them?

Many thanks,

Steve.

 

[CHJ]

Steve, I am violently allergic to Iroko dust/shavings/released chemicals, but have never been aware of any problems when coming into contact with finished timber.

Handling unfinished wood in a suppliers yard is a problem, dust?

We had 'red wood' chopping boards for years that caused me no problems until the day I decided to try my hand at turning one we had discarded.

 

[woodbloke]

Steve - please take notice of Chas's advice on iroko, it is nasty stuff and affects different people in different ways. I don't seem to be too badly upset by the stuff but I wouldn't knowingly use it for an interior project. To my mind there are better timbers with more interesting grain to use...however that said, you 'obtained' :wink: yours free and gratis so that puts a slightly different slant on it. When you use it in the 'shop I would wear a decent P2 mask when doing any sanding or machining. It is tho' one of the very best timbers for outside projects as it's practically indestructible in the wet - Rob

 

[catface]

Hi steve, congrats on rescuing some "interesting wood"
RE allergic reactions, I,m halfway through making an iroko frame & panel bed, & have had no bad reactions from machining or handling the wood, (including sawdust). Ofcourse I may drop down dead tomorrow with some strange respiratory complaint, but so far so good. On the other hand I;ve been very careful with handling the wood - a clean air extractor with a 9inch main takes almost all machining waste away at source, & I made up enclosed hoods for machining processes I'd usually do unextracted ; I also run a room air filter full time and use a powered face mask for any sanding activity or similar. In this way I've had no problems, yet.
Hope this helps,regards, Catface

 

[Chris Knight]

Like Rob, I wouldn't use it for boxes. The grain and figure are IMHO not really interesting enough and the potential downside from allergic reaction or sensitization is just too high for the benefit. I'd keep the wood for exterior use.

If you do use it, I recommend a barrier cream in addition to a dust mask. I use Rosalex industrial barrier cream that helps me avoid or delay the splitting of finger ends that occurs when I use the stuff.

 

[momo]

Well without hijacking the thread, could this be used as a replacement for western red cedar ?, or rather for making beehives with ?, if so how much does it cost, is it comparable.

 

[TheTiddles]

Like any auto-immune response you may or may not develop or negate the sensitisation at any point in your life. So far I have never had a reaction despite in the past my exceedingly lax/non-existent safety precautions regarding it. Last night I routed a small slot for some t-track in MDF without extraction and I have had a sore throat all day, I spent three weeks working with Iroko making my bench without a glimmer of a sneeze. That said, inject me with penicillin and I'm dead.

Iroko is a bit like teak, it's nothing to set the world on fire regards it decorative properties but it's a nice dark easily worked timber for highlights, contrasting layers or general useage. I like laminating things, firstly because it has excellent mechanical properties and more importantly you can make things cheaper. If you plane the boards smooth and laminate them together you could make a workbench perhaps...

Aidan

 

[woodbloke]

The Tiddles wrote:

Iroko is a bit like teak,

Aidan - I might take slight issue with that one :lol: ...agreed teak and iroko share many of the same technical properties but IMO the grain pattern on some teak boards (not all) can be quite spectacular where dark brown or almost black markings run through the timber - Rob

 

[StevieB]

Thanks for your opinions, diverse and interesting as always! The grain looks something like this:

Thats not the actual piece I have prepared, but very similar. Not saying all 30 boards look like this but I have not prepped them all yet. To me that grain is fairly distinctive and interesting.

I will prep the rest, see what I get and go from there I think. Afterall, I have got to have something to test my new CT1502 planer on now haven't I

cheers,

Steve.

 

[ByronBlack]

I used Iroko with no problems when doing a small side table. I just used the same precautions as any timber - mask, specs, etc..

I actually like the grain pattern on Iroko, the second-hand salvaged boards that I used were all very distinct, and when finished looked fantastic. Iroko is nice to finish as well. I used a shellac sanding sealer and after a couple of coats I got a very nice french-polish type gloss without too much bother, I prefer it to teak.

 

[roombacurious]

Machining it and using the finished product are two different things.
It's very unlikely that the finished product will cause an allergic reaction. The majority of allergic reactions are caused by stuff you inhale, eat or absorb through the skin.
The risk would be higher however if Iroko is an oily wood (I've never used it myself). In that case you're better off sealing it very well or avoiding using it altogether (oil can be absorbed through the skin).

 

[Digit]

Following this thread has lead to me reading the small print in one of my books. Whilst it appears that more people are likely to react to the dust of Iroko than most timbers, other than a small percentage, those who suffer anaphlaxia, most will not be seriously affected.
One of the most seriously dangerous timbers is in fact Beech! It has a long history of causing nasal cancer, traditionally known as 'Carpenter's nose'!

Roy.

 

[Joe]

One of the most seriously dangerous timbers is in fact Beech! It has a long history of causing nasal cancer, traditionally known as 'Carpenter's nose'!

Roy.

I'm now wishing I'd been more careful whilst doing extensive flattening of my beech workbench. Still, at least I know now. Thanks Roy.

Joel

 

[Digit]

Or is it simply the result of 'unloaded' statistics?
Carpenter's nose was one of the earliest recognised industrial diseases, along with Phossy Jaw amongst match makers and lung diseases amongst pin and needle grinders. Beech has been used for many many more years in this country than has Iroko, so many more will have been exposed to Beech, and for longer, than those who have been exposed to Iroko.

Roy.