Ipe/teak in-shower grating/duckboards?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Charlie Prime

New member
Joined
2 Mar 2019
Messages
1
Reaction score
0
Location
London
Hello all,

I’d like to have an ipe or teak grating or duckboards in my modern bathroom.

It will have to look modern, simple and rectilinear, be of marine-level durability, and made of a wood that won’t warp, twist, crack, flake, splinter etc. in a regularly saturated environment. My feet have to feel safe!

The grating/duckboard would sit in the “tray” of a fully tiled shower enclosure, and can be no more than 860 x 660 mm in size. It would need to sit proud of the floor in there of course to permit drainage. The floor is very slightly graded to permit 100% water drainage, so no need for any slope on the grating/duckboards.

I have two thoughts at the moment:

1. Find a recommended UK supplier

There are lots of suppliers out there but not so many in the UK. I’d like to support UK makers if I can.

I’m happy to pay a reasonable price of course, but not many £100s if that’s possible.

2. Find a craftsman who would make one

Again, I’d prefer to speak with someone in the UK if at all possible.

I know the wooden materials are available from timber providers, and that a handmade piece will be a perfect fit for the space.

If any experts here can help me out, I’d be very grateful indeed.

Many thanks,
Charlie
 
You can use pretty much any timber in this application so long as it's sealed properly, Had varnished pine on the walls of the shower room for years and they never twisted, warped, flaked, cracked or splintered due to the constant moisture changes. It's a little different since it's actually going to be in contact with running water but the same still applies, a properly made and sealed hardwood duckboard would last indefinitely.

You're far better off with a much cheaper timber such as Iroko or Keruing rather than spend a lot of money on "Marine quality" timbers. If it ain't going in the sea, it doesn't need to be "Marine quality", the water running onto it will be very clean and not as acidic compared to sea or rainwater.

I'm sure someone on this very forum could make you one to a very high standard at a good price. There's nothing really to making one.
 
Have you given thought to the poor person who will have to keep lifting it and stacking it every time the shower gets cleaned? :shock:
I suspect the cleaning lady will have her own opinions on it after the first week of use. #-o :roll:
 
Teak is the choice material for this sort of use but the price will be eye watering.
I suggest you look at marine suppliers who make to size.
 
I made a bamboo duckboard from left over flooring as a step out of the shower bath mat type thing. I tried leaving it natural after reading it could fare well being left bare. It looked alright but the underside began to mould slightly. I've now given it a two pack varnish type finish and it's doing well. Much better than having soggy wet mats. Should say the bathroom and adjoining bedroom have always suffered from damp so this may have added to my original mould issue.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
screwpainting":11lae2sv said:
Trevanion":11lae2sv said:
screwpainting":11lae2sv said:

Because who doesn't want their modern bathroom looking like the floor of an old-school engineering workshop?

Good point, I hadn't thought of that (homer)
He has possibly got lounge furniture made from pallet wood too! :lol:
 
I'm not sure how an enquiry about doors slipped into this thread!The original question about a shower grating deserves a straight answer and its an easy project.Teak slats of around 70mmX20mm, with a 5mm radius along the top edge trim to length.Three slats to go beneath for support,say 50mmX20mm and 650mm long.Lay the 860mm slats on the bench-top down and position the others to show where a couple of 25mm lifting holes would be useful.Drill the lifting holes and space the longitudinals so there is a gap of 8-12 mm to allow for drainage and not a big enough space for fingers to get stuck.Drill and countersink the lower slats for clearance for an 1 1/4 X8 non-ferrous screw add a tiny dab of polyurethane glue and screw together.If you exceed the tiny dab there will be an amount of clean up necessary.Turn over put in place and use.

The alternative is to splash the cash for something like this:
 

Attachments

  • cockpit grate.JPG
    cockpit grate.JPG
    366.6 KB
In the past, these sort of boards where used in showers on some of the ships I use to sail on. All I can say is that they get pretty disgusting and manky really quickly.
Though I have made the sort of grating like the picture and they are relatively easy to make, just the joints all need to be very tight.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top