As a keen hobby woodworker, I usually work on my own. I wish to build infeed and outfeed tables, with rollers to help when passing lengths of 2 metres or more over the table saw or planer thicknesser. What height should the rollers be ? Exactly the same as the machines or a mm or two lower? How do you overcome the challenges of an ‘under’ thicknesser such as a Sedgwick?
Infeed / Outfeed tables
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Eshmiel
Established Member
Tables for this purpose are generally at a fixed height. They have a large area but I still prefer roller stands of the adjustable height kind. These are more versatile because: the height can be adjusted; they're easy to move between different machines; they don't get in the way as tables often can.
There are many varieties. I have two with cast iron bases consisting of a single vertical pole of chromed steel tube that slides up and down in the cast iron tube coming up from the base, with a large single locking nut and a roller on top. The roller can be pivoted out of the way to reveal a series of large captive ball bearings, which are sometimes a better otion than rollers for in and out feeding workpieces. I also have a Triton adjustable stand on a fold-out tripod with a pair of slide-over pieces on top.
There are many varieties. I have two with cast iron bases consisting of a single vertical pole of chromed steel tube that slides up and down in the cast iron tube coming up from the base, with a large single locking nut and a roller on top. The roller can be pivoted out of the way to reveal a series of large captive ball bearings, which are sometimes a better otion than rollers for in and out feeding workpieces. I also have a Triton adjustable stand on a fold-out tripod with a pair of slide-over pieces on top.
niall Y
Established Member
+ 1 for rollers - they can be very useful. The only downside is if your floor is not even, when they can be a real pain to reposition from one spot to another. Height wise, they should be exactly the same as that of the machine bed, for which the are an extension. I tend to set mine up with a long straight edge off the infeed and outfeed of the particular machine I am using.
They do, however, need a very positive locking mechanism, otherwise they can collapse under the weight of the wood. They also need to be stable at their base, or one is forever having to pick them up should you accidentally knock them with the piece of wood you are machining.
I also use a couple of roller tables that I keep permanently positioned either side of my Radial Arm saw. These are a godsend for positioning large, heavy lengths of wood. But, as they are tucked against one of the walls, they are not prone to getting in the way, as they might on my other machines.
They do, however, need a very positive locking mechanism, otherwise they can collapse under the weight of the wood. They also need to be stable at their base, or one is forever having to pick them up should you accidentally knock them with the piece of wood you are machining.
I also use a couple of roller tables that I keep permanently positioned either side of my Radial Arm saw. These are a godsend for positioning large, heavy lengths of wood. But, as they are tucked against one of the walls, they are not prone to getting in the way, as they might on my other machines.
Orraloon
Established Member
Adjustable height outfeed table.
Does the table saw and the band saw. Cheap $25 workmate and some offcuts. When I need infeed support on longer boards then I use a roller stand for that. As to heights I find a few mm below saw table works best. If they are the same then any sag in the wood causes it to catch the edge of the outfeed table. I do not use an outfeed table on the thicknesser. Best to catch the wood by hand as it comes out. Taking the weight of the end of the wood helps to prevent snipe. Surface planing and jointing is even more critical that the wood is flat on the tables. They reckon 2 to 2.5 times the table length can be planed flat. After that you may be getting less than flat boards. Any extensions/ support would have to be spot on. Its why long table planers cost more.
Regards
John
Does the table saw and the band saw. Cheap $25 workmate and some offcuts. When I need infeed support on longer boards then I use a roller stand for that. As to heights I find a few mm below saw table works best. If they are the same then any sag in the wood causes it to catch the edge of the outfeed table. I do not use an outfeed table on the thicknesser. Best to catch the wood by hand as it comes out. Taking the weight of the end of the wood helps to prevent snipe. Surface planing and jointing is even more critical that the wood is flat on the tables. They reckon 2 to 2.5 times the table length can be planed flat. After that you may be getting less than flat boards. Any extensions/ support would have to be spot on. Its why long table planers cost more.
Regards
John
Cabinetman
Established Member
Yes exactly correct, my new combi mc on the top planer ( these Americans are making the terminology difficult) has much shorter tables than I’ve been used to and it’s almost impossible to get a long flat board out of it, I tried a stand to catch the wood but even 1 mm out and it either lifts or lets the board sag downwards ruining the flatness needed.
Ian
In my small space, the tablesaw outfeed is also the work/assembly bench. For infeed it has to be a roller stand so that it can be stored. A roller that can be gripped in the jaws of a workmate is more stable than a cheap folding stand. A roller with a big round cast iron base is much more stable but they would be a pain to store in a small shop.
For planing, roller stands again. Set as near level as possible with the tables on the infeed and outfeed.
I place the infeed stand just over half the board length from the cutter block, so the centre of gravity is between and the board will sit flat as I move into position to start feeding and with heavy downward pressure.
Outfeed side the roller is closer so that it catches the board before it droops more than a couple of mm and will ride up and over the roller cleanly. I'm always applying a heavy downward pressure while feeding so the outfeed roller is to reduce the leverage of the long board near the end of the pass, it doesn't have to eliminate it completely or support the board flat after the cut.
Thicknessing, a roller on the infeed side about half a plank away as planing. Outfeed I walk round and take the weight by hand as it comes out.
For planing, roller stands again. Set as near level as possible with the tables on the infeed and outfeed.
I place the infeed stand just over half the board length from the cutter block, so the centre of gravity is between and the board will sit flat as I move into position to start feeding and with heavy downward pressure.
Outfeed side the roller is closer so that it catches the board before it droops more than a couple of mm and will ride up and over the roller cleanly. I'm always applying a heavy downward pressure while feeding so the outfeed roller is to reduce the leverage of the long board near the end of the pass, it doesn't have to eliminate it completely or support the board flat after the cut.
Thicknessing, a roller on the infeed side about half a plank away as planing. Outfeed I walk round and take the weight by hand as it comes out.
Only addition to all of the above is on the thicknesser I have the infeed support at the level or fractionally above the bed height. A hair below and I see snipe on the leading edge, fractionally above the impact is seldom obvious.
My thinking is : When the infeed is fractionally below the bed height the edge of the bed is acting as a fulcrum and the pressure roller is trying to deform the front 30cm (depending on bed length) down to the table. If the infeed is fractionally higher, then the board is not riding on the front of the thicknesser bed and the pressure roller has an easier job deforming the board to the bed of the table. I also find this when thicknessing by hand, if the board end drops below the table height going in or out the snipe is terrible, but above the table level makes little impact on snipe.
My thinking is : When the infeed is fractionally below the bed height the edge of the bed is acting as a fulcrum and the pressure roller is trying to deform the front 30cm (depending on bed length) down to the table. If the infeed is fractionally higher, then the board is not riding on the front of the thicknesser bed and the pressure roller has an easier job deforming the board to the bed of the table. I also find this when thicknessing by hand, if the board end drops below the table height going in or out the snipe is terrible, but above the table level makes little impact on snipe.
HOJ
Established Member
I gave up on roller stands, they annoy the carp out of me, on infeed, you need to control the timber alignment and not just push it along, rollers can direct it anyway they want if not set right, by which time you realise they aren't, your already committed.
On my inside shop table saw I have an outfeed table that can fold up/down when I have no need for it, its on a pair of loose pin hinges and a support leg I prop it up with.
With the thicknesser I just feed the timber in, then go round the outfeed side when the wood comes through by about half way, and don't waste my time (or knock them over) with rollers, and then having to adjust every time I change the thicknesser settings.
For reference, I regularly machine long lengths of timber.
On my inside shop table saw I have an outfeed table that can fold up/down when I have no need for it, its on a pair of loose pin hinges and a support leg I prop it up with.
With the thicknesser I just feed the timber in, then go round the outfeed side when the wood comes through by about half way, and don't waste my time (or knock them over) with rollers, and then having to adjust every time I change the thicknesser settings.
For reference, I regularly machine long lengths of timber.
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