Inca bandsaw

[powertools]

The tyres on an Inca saw are hard and should be.
The blade should run with the teeth running just in front of the wheels, you would not be able to achieve that with soft tyres.

 

[woodbloke66]

I had one of those for donkey's years; great little saw and as far as I recollect it never broke a bandsaw blade. I used the 1/2" 6tpi Diamond Ground blades from Ax (and still do on my current small bandsaw) on it and they were superb - Rob

 

[Bm101]

Mine clamped up yesterday. Under a bit of pressure I stripped it out and had it working again in 20 minutes. I'm a rank amateur round machines in
terms of that. It's just so well designed. A bomb proof little saw built to great standards.
Phone Ian at Tuffsaws. Don't email. He will talk you through what you want your saw to do and supply you top quality blades.
Rob above recommends the Axminster ones and he's certainly no slouch so you have a choice of two suppliers but if you don't know what blades you want Ian will help you out for nothing at least for your first blades.
Online copy of the manual here:
https://m.imgur.com/a/XW1av

At this point I don't want a circular saw but like you ( I think?) I am a hobbyist. The Inca was a total game changer for me. Completely altered how I work (dabble) from night to day. I think you've made a good choice based on personal experience at least.
Welcome to the fan club.

 

[Sideways]

I've seen the rip fence for these. You're not missing much. They are pretty small and feeble. Press on with your search for an aftermarket alternative.

 

[samhay]

I have a similar vintage of Euro 260. Lovely little thing.
I assume your's has a Hoover motor?

You can get spares from:
https://incamachines.com/english/inca-spare-parts.html

I find the mitre guide and rip fence useful, but wouldn't buy them at those prices. You are also missing the guide that the fence clamps on to, which further complicated things.

I built an extension table for my saw that extends towards the throat and out over the motor. This is bolted to the underside of the table via a number of existing threaded blind bolt holes in the table - think they may be M6, but easy enough to check. These are also used to bolt the fence guide in place and should be able to be repurposed to add another type of rip fence.

 

[woodbloke66]

Rob above recommends the Axminster ones and he's certainly no slouch so you have a choice of two suppliers but if you don't know what blades you want Ian will help you out for nothing at least for your first blades.

At this point I don't want a circular saw but like you ( I think?) I am a hobbyist. The Inca was a total game changer for me. Completely altered how I work (dabble) from night to day. I think you've made a good choice based on personal experience at least.
Welcome to the fan club.

Blade length from memory is 73.5" which is exactly the same length as required on my current small bandsaw
If you're dithering over whether or not you need a tablesaw, the answer is that you don't, especially in a smallish workshop. What you do need is a really good shooting board; I've made loads and this one is several light years ahead of the curve . With a good bandsaw (and the Euro is one of the best IMO) and a shooting board you're pretty much set up for most stuff and you have the option to buy a dedicated plane if required which makes it super efficient.
Speaking to a mate the other day (I do have a few ) who as a pro', mentioned that his Hammer combo was indispensable for quick, accurate repeat cuts in order to churn out stuff for craft fairs, Etsy etc etc which is not the sort of work I'm interested in, so yes, that's when a table saw comes into it's own - Rob

 

[oyvin10]

I have a similar vintage of Euro 260. Lovely little thing.
I assume your's has a Hoover motor?

I find the mitre guide and rip fence useful, but wouldn't buy them at those prices. You are also missing the guide that the fence clamps on to, which further complicated things.

I built an extension table for my saw that extends towards the throat and out over the motor. This is bolted to the underside of the table via a number of existing threaded blind bolt holes in the table - think they may be M6, but easy enough to check. These are also used to bolt the fence guide in place and should be able to be repurposed to add another type of rip fence.

Mine has a Leroy Somer motor, 0.44kW / 1000rpm.
Agree with your and others assessment of the OEM rip fence, does not look to be worth the price on incas website. I think going for a table extension as you have is a good idea, and something I will go for as well. Makes it easier to adapt/make a new rip fence and other accessories. Extending it towards the motor is a great idea.

Rob above recommends the Axminster ones and he's certainly no slouch so you have a choice of two suppliers but if you don't know what blades you want Ian will help you out for nothing at least for your first blades.

At this point I don't want a circular saw but like you ( I think?) I am a hobbyist. The Inca was a total game changer for me. Completely altered how I work (dabble) from night to day. I think you've made a good choice based on personal experience at least.
Welcome to the fan club.

Blade length from memory is 73.5" which is exactly the same length as required on my current small
If you're dithering over whether or not you need a tablesaw, the answer is that you don't, especially in a smallish workshop. What you do need is a really good shooting board; I've made loads and this is several light years ahead of the curve . With a good bandsaw (and the Euro is one of the best IMO) and a shooting board you're pretty much set up for most stuff and you have the option to buy a dedicated plane if required which makes it super efficient.
Speaking to a mate the other day (I do have a few ) who as a pro', mentioned that his Hammer combo was indispensable for quick, accurate repeat cuts in order to churn out stuff for craft fairs, Etsy etc etc which is not the sort of work I'm interested in, so yes, that's when a table saw comes into it's own - Rob

I have been considering a table saw, but find that I can do most of it with my track-saw, and the size / set-up of my "shop" does not really allow for effective use of a tablesaw. The band-saw purchase further reduces the need for a table saw.

I have bought a couple of hand planes recently and made myself a quick and easy shooting board, love the results I am getting.

I think I will try the axminster blades or ones from a domestic supplier here in Norway if they would just answer my emails.

 

[Bm101]

Thanks Rob. An almost prescient reply.
Sorting extraction issues and trying to sound damp the vac and sort a cyclone next. Then yeh. That shooting board is on the cards. Looks a proper job. I have a couple of router options to sort but they are longer term goals. Day to day I think you nailed it.
I have no desire to have a table saw tbh.
It's taken me a while to find the right balance of where I want to be in the 240v and hand tool spectrum. Have some planes to move on shortly but I might just keep the record 5 back... might even tap a handle in the side... :-"

 

[woodbloke66]

I think I will try the axminster blades or ones from a domestic supplier here in Norway if they would just answer my emails.

Axminster like Scandinavia; if they won't answer your emails, pick up the dog n'bone (that's a 'phone :lol: ) and give them a ring - Rob

 

[Trevanion]

Is it just me or does seeing a bandsaw with the pillar on the righthand side make anyone else feel funny? Just doesn't sit right with me at all! :lol:

 

[John Brown]

Is it just me or does seeing a bandsaw with the pillar on the righthand side make anyone else feel funny? Just doesn't sit right with me at all! :lol:

All the bandsaw I've ever owned have been that way, so no.

 

[powertools]

The blade length for the Inca saw is 1850mm or 73".
I have used blades from several suppliers over the years and I can only say that from my experience the blades from Beaverstock Ltd are far and away the best I have ever used.
http://beverstocksaws.com/
In the Inca saw I use 1/4 4 tpi blades.
It is important to understand that the bar across the front of the table is not only there to support the rip fence but also keeps the table square across the slot in the table.

 

[powertools]

Is it just me or does seeing a bandsaw with the pillar on the righthand side make anyone else feel funny? Just doesn't sit right with me at all! :lol:

That along with the fact that the switch is out of sight round the side is a bit of an odd design but you get used to it.

 

[Bm101]

Wait till you have to reach round the back of the right of the machine to turn it on and off.


Edit. Apologies. Already said!

 

[samhay]

Mine has the switch in a more conventional spot.
Still arsed about backwards though.

 

[MusicMan]

Seems natural to me, but then I also use an Inca.

 

[HobbyMekanik]

Hi!
Here is a pic on my Inca.
Bought it today. Had another one years ago, but sold it a few years back. Regret selling my old Inca and today this baby became mine

 

[Bm101]

Welcome to the site. That looks absolutely spotless. Almost new. Congratulations!
Could I ask what the dust extraction is? It looks neat. Samhay has a similar looking port In the photo above and it got me wondering.
I have a cobbled together version that extracts from the bottom of the machine on the side you can remove. I also bought a version from a very inventive forum member that's plastic printed. The only reason I haven't fitted it is that it means you cant tilt the table. It's a cracking bit of kit other than that but requires cutting a hole in the body. Just not sure it's 100 percent the right solution for me yet tbh.
I sometimes just whack the vac nozzle in under the table but its deceptively useless there. Wondering if a port directly under the table or maybe even lower down is better as the dust loses velocity.
Could you take a pic when not too busy?
No worries if you are busy. Regards.
Chris.

 

[HobbyMekanik]

Welcome to the site. That looks absolutely spotless. Almost new. Congratulations!
Could I ask what the dust extraction is? It looks neat. Samhay has a similar looking port In the photo above and it got me wondering.
I have a cobbled together version that extracts from the bottom of the machine on the side you can remove. I also bought a version from a very inventive forum member that's plastic printed. The only reason I haven't fitted it is that it means you cant tilt the table. It's a cracking bit of kit other than that but requires cutting a hole in the body. Just not sure it's 100 percent the right solution for me yet tbh.
I sometimes just whack the vac nozzle in under the table but its deceptively useless there. Wondering if a port directly under the table or maybe even lower down is better as the dust loses velocity.
Could you take a pic when not too busy?
No worries if you are busy. Regards.
Chris.

I will try to remember to take a photo and post. But it is the original dust port, in which the previous owner glued the red part which fits on a vacum cleaner.

 

[samhay]

I can take photos of the dust collection if needed. I broke it recently, so is now a little modified, but otherwise is the original part that came with the machine.
It is not spectacularly effective, but does allow the table to tilt while in situ. If someone with a 3D printer fancies making some, I'd be very happy to help.