Ideas on how to fix this....

[ScaredyCat]

I'm making a desk for my wife and decided that I wanted to grain match along the front. To do this I took my long board, ripped 1/2" from the left and 1/2" from the right. I then took the remaining board and cross cut it into 4 sections - 2 end pieces, 2 drawer fronts and a centre piece.

I then reassembled all of the parts in order, except for the drawer fronts, and glued them up. That gives me this: (please excuse photo quality)

It all worked out really well.... right up until I realised that I hadn't taken the saw kerf into account. when I insert the drawer fronts, the top and bottom are fine everything matched beautifully. But, the length of the drawer fronts is around 5mm (~2.5 mm at each end) short.

The only way I can think to fix it is to take a bit more off the top and bottom of the drawer fronts and add some highlighting wood as a surround (probably maple, although I do have some purple heart and the wife did say "Wow" when she saw the mallet I'd made using it..). - possibly adding a layer of walnut around that to make it look more like an inlay.

Just FYI the sides of the desk are maple. Ignore the top (where you can clearly see a gap) that's not completed (am going to have a go at veneering) or attached as yet.

Any other/better ways to fix the **** up?


.

 

[custard]

The solution you've come up with might sound tempting (after all, it's similar to **** beads) but IMO you're adding ton of extra work, and it'll clash stylistically with the mid century modern look you originally envisaged as well as completely destroying the clean, flowing grain lines along an unbroken front.

I guess this isn't what you want to hear, but if that were my project I'd chalk it down to experience and re-make that front piece.

 

[ScaredyCat]

it's similar to **** beads

There's no way I'm googling for that.

I guess this isn't what you want to hear, but if that were my project I'd chalk it down to experience and re-make that front piece.

I feared as much but was hoping for an alternative. Unfortunately I'm going to have to cut it off and I think that's going to be a task in itself. I only glued it at the weekend.

Thanks Custard.

.

 

[profchris]

If you used Titebond or PVA, heat should soften the joint enough to prise the front off, though it will take some time to heat the joint through. Hand hot is enough. Common practice for musical instrument repair, though of course the thin wood heats up fast.