Idea for fixing reversible box lid

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Kim_reaper

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Hello,

I've been given an interesting wood box for woodburning, and realised it would make an excellent gaming table. I plan to have a a chess board design on one side, a backgammon design on the other and a felt lined inner for playing pieces and doubling up as a dice rolling table.

IMG_20181012_201130.jpg


The problem is the box was originally for delivering a mechanical part so the completely flat lid was attached by screws into the 20mm (25 along one length) wide ply edge.
I'm looking for some inspiration on how to make something that will keep the lid in place on either side, whilst not detracting from the overall aesthetic.
I had considered brass handles in 4 corners on both sides so that the 4 underneath snuggled into the corners but I'm hoping someone might come up with a better option!

Box is 505x430x40mm (without lid) inside is 465x385x30mm and lid is 505x430x8mm.

Any advice/inspiration welcome!
IMG_20181012_201108.jpg
 

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The walls of your box are quite thick, so you could glue a shallow lip all around, about half the thickness of the walls. Trim each side of the top (incidentally removing the screw holes) and drop it in to the well thus created.

Of course, to get the lid off you now have to turn the box upside down. Drill a finger hole near one edge? Or two small holes with a string loop?
 
Ah I like this idea. It saves a patch job on the screw holes too which is a bonus. Not feeling the finger hole option, but finding a solution to getting the lid out seems more doable. Thanks Prof!
 
How about a steel pin running top to bottom through the side? Push the pin up from underneath to raise one edge of the top enough to lift it off.

I'm thinking a long M3 bolt, the head sitting in a recess in the top surface of the side. A nut on the bottom, in a recess large enough to allow you to press it up. Maybe just a notch cut into the bottom edge of the side.

Or, simplest, a cloth tab attached to an edge of the top ...
 
Magnets, either sized to fit the holes or holes altered to fit the magnets - These are reasonably priced:
Click here

Finger holes, or recesses in the box side, or any number of lifting points are possible.
 
Magnets was something I'd been considering but the screw holes are not quite symmetrical or evenly placed and I felt they might detract from the overall aesthetic. Was definitely one of my top choices!

In terms of lifting, I think when I cut the lid to take the screws off as per profs original post, that I'll leave a sort of tab along one edge. The wood strip I'll add along the box edge to create a lip, will have a gap for this tab and will also be tapered towards the edge and therefore the box lids "tab" will be more prominent.
 
IMG_20190303_110428.jpg


Just wanted to say thank you all for your help and suggestions with my games table. As you can see, the added lip and stripped off screw holes has really done the job and made it look far more professional than I had hoped for.
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Ended up going with a small finger hole after all, mostly because I chipped the ply and a finger hole was ideal to cover up my mistake!

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Going to add a little gold leaf for embellishment before giving it a final protective coat. Then I'll get the legs attached and line the box using the very helpful guide here. Already used it to line a couple of ring boxes for 2 different weddings!

Thanks again,
Kim
 

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Wow! You made that from discarded industrial packaging? Brilliant job! =D> =D> =D>
 
Did you make those designs on the lid with pyrography?

If so that's pretty impressive. I'll be honest I'm not normally a fan of pyrography, but those designs, and in particular the texturing, looks amazing!

=D>
 
custard":34b6p0r4 said:
Did you make those designs on the lid with pyrography?

If so that's pretty impressive. I'll be honest I'm not normally a fan of pyrography, but those designs, and in particular the texturing, looks amazing!

=D>
Agreed, they look great. I've dabbled a bit with pyrography and it's an art that requires a very delicate touch; sadly way beyond my ham fisted capabilities. Done well by somebody who knows their way round a pyrography pen, the results can be stunning. I use a basic pen now just to sign and date work which is as much as I want to do - Rob
 
Thanks! My pyrography is still fairly basic, I too lack the delicacy to master the light texturing that others do. The projects I've created so far have been mostly line work, it's like using a marker pen to draw rather than a pencil. It does create a really appealing texture though, I constantly want to run my hands over it!
 

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