Ia there a way of attaching face frames after the worktop?

[Stanleythecat]

Hi All.

I am wondering, is there a way to fit a face frame(s) to a kitchen after the work tops have been installed?

It might be making more work for myself but my wife relies on her kitchen for her business and I was wondering what the earliest is that I could get her back in and using it.

If I can knock the carcases up and the worktops can be fitted (with hob etc) it gives me more time to do a better job on the frames and she can crack on.

Your thoughts and experience will be an incredible help!

Thanks in advance

Leo

 

[Myfordman]

I can't think of a face frame scheme that could not be added after the worktop.
Can you describe the problem that you envisage occurring?

 

[tomf]

Clamping the frame would be hard if you're just gluing it.

 

[carlb40]

Easy peasy

Pocket hole screws from the rear

 

[carlb40]

Clamping the frame would be hard if you're just gluing it.

Largeish G clamp, clamped to the units - then wedges to hold the frame while the glue sets

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks folks. I suppose I was wondering how I could clamp it without sash clamps or similar. I also had biscuits in mind originally.

Leo

 

[ColeyS1]

Keyhole slots ? - slacken off the worktops so it'll slide on

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[Shrubby]

If you have a biscuit joiner use lamello or knapp connectors
Matt

 

[nanscombe]

If you were just trying to hold the face frame to the carcass, and biscuits wouldn't be tight enough to hold it in place, what about using a couple of dowels?

You wouldn't have glue them in, just rely on friction to hold the face frame in place whilst the rest of the glue sets.

 

[Stanleythecat]

I have to say this forum in excellent, you guys have been really helpful. Thanks

Matt I never even knew about those connectors! They look like they might work. Would they be used in conjunction with ordinary biscuits?

Is there a way to 'retro fit' a face frame as it were or would i need to cut the slots on the carcases beforehand? To be clear do I need to cut the biscuit joints in the carcases and face frames at the same time or is there a way to do it afterwards? I can see that I could do the carcases ready to take the worktop but don't know how I would do the frames seperately afterwards.

Leo

 

[Shultzy]

You will find it much easier to make each unit separately, finished, and with a door or drawers. When you have completed a length of units, say from a corner to the cooker / sink / fridge, rip the old units out and replace the worktop on top of the new units. The weight of the worktop will be sufficient to work on without it moving about. I replaced all our kitchen units with out any disruption of the wife's cooking (most important -))). It takes a bit of planning, write it all in a notebook and adjust where necessary.

PS plan it out in something like Sketchup, it pays dividends later.

 

[Berncarpenter]

Hi Leo
Here is another method that hasnt been mentioned yet . 25mm square battens screwed to the back of the face frame .

Use your cabinet material as a guide . You can then screw through from the inside of the cab into the batten.

Here is a face frame job that i am working on at the moment.

Hope this helps

Cheers Bern

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks Bern, lovely work and that certianly gives me an idea for lining things up!

Is that birch ply and poplar?

Leo

 

[Berncarpenter]

Thanks Bern, lovely work and that certianly gives me an idea for lining things up!

Is that birch ply and poplar?

Leo

Hi Leo

Yes you got it ,got a thread running on The Woodheaven Forum for the full story.

Cheers Bern

 

[Stanleythecat]

If only Shultzy!

I completely agree. This totally goes against my instinct but my wife's business is her cooking and this is an extension. So at some point the old kitchen will cease to exist, probably when the floor goes down, and then the stopwatch starts! It's a bit of cat and mouse with us earning as we go so the income is vital. If I can get the worksurfaces installed she can pretty much crack on... leaving me some time to make the frames properly. I know, I know, asking for trouble! But my wife is goal orientated where as I am process orientated, we both want a good job but she has little interest in the journey!

 

[Stanleythecat]

Thanks Bern, lovely work and that certianly gives me an idea for lining things up!

Is that birch ply and poplar?

Leo

Hi Leo

Yes you got it ,got a thread running on The Woodheaven Forum for the full story.

Cheers Bern

Had a look Bern, your a talent! I shouldn't really be looking at kitchens like yours, they'll only depress me when it comes to making mine!

Where to you get your wood from? With the frames be painted?

Leo

 

[RobinBHM]

Screwing on battens at the back works really well, lve made many kitchens this way.

I make the carcase and frame flush to the inside of the carcase but make the carcase 1mm wider to avoid any carcase edges showing. I make the battens thin enough to allow for side cheeks to be added on the end cabinets. A marking gauge line Ive found is the easiest way to use as a guide when marking the side battens. Chamfering the batten edges helps to ease them on.

 

[Berncarpenter]

Thanks Bern, lovely work and that certianly gives me an idea for lining things up!

Is that birch ply and poplar?

Leo

Hi Leo

Yes you got it ,got a thread running on The Woodheaven Forum for the full story.

Cheers Bern

Had a look Bern, your a talent! I shouldn't really be looking at kitchens like yours, they'll only depress me when it comes to making mine!

Where to you get your wood from? With the frames be painted?

Leo

Sorry Leo somehow missed your reply .Thanks for the kind words .Poplar comes from a local place Nottage Joinery and the pre finished birch ply come from lathams via a local Travis Perkings , But for my next job a forum member will supply the ply boards cut to size for me .The frames and doors will sprayed so will test fit fine tune and then take them of to be sprayed.

Cheers Bern