I think I'm going to need a chainsaw...

[dickm]

Is there any advantage to using a different chain for cutting with, as opposed to across, the grain? I thought I'd read somewhere that there are special chains for this.

 

[big soft moose]

Is there any advantage to using a different chain for cutting with, as opposed to across, the grain? I thought I'd read somewhere that there are special chains for this.

there is if you regularly opperate a chainsaw mill , but for the ocassional user the faff of changing chains (unless you have two saws one for each) then changing back again to octagonise the blank outweighs any advantage

the key is keeping the chain sharp whatever kind you use - sharp chains on power ful saws cut straight - blunt chains or those on underpowered saws cut curves

 

[PAC]

those on underpowered saws cut curves

Pete, I was thinking of buying just a small Styhl 170 MS saw with a 14" bar. Do you think it would be underpowered for cutting a few bowl blanks up to 12" or so?

 

[big soft moose]

those on underpowered saws cut curves

Pete, I was thinking of buying just a small Styhl 170 MS saw with a 14" bar. Do you think it would be underpowered for cutting a few bowl blanks up to 12" or so?

that would probably be okay - tho imo the 170 is slightly under powered to run a 14" chain - the general rule of thumb is to buy one size down from the maximum reccomended for the saw.

ie if the max is 14 get 12 , if its 16 get 14 etc

to put this in context I have a number of saws (tho most belong to work rather than to me personally)

My own saw is a stihl 023 with a 14" bar - this is used generally for firewood

I also have an axminster electric chainsaw with a 12" bar which is used when i want to octagonise blanks inside (petrol fumes in the workshop not a good idea)

MY principal work saw is a Sthil 361 with an 18" bar - this is the one i use for ripping down blanks and harvesting wood from fallen trees - however the average tree i'm dealing with is 24" to 36" dia - I dont generally bother with smaller than that unless its especially interesting - or for firewood

We also have a sthil 024 woodboss and a stil 261 both with 14" bars - these are generally used for felling small trees and dealing with fallen timber of a smaller dia.

My advice to you would be that if you only want to cut the ocassional small log then the 170 with a 12" bar would be fine - If however you might want to harvest or rip larger wood in the future i'd say get something more powerful now (A well maintained chainsaw ought to last for years) - A 361 would be total overkill for you however - my recomendation would be something like a 241 with 14" bar if you can afford the extra money

Also dont forget to budget for the protective trousers, helmet, gloves and boots - which altogether will be well over the ton (Though i have a spare pair of trousers i can let you have - which are in perfect condition just a bit dirty on the outside) and also sharpening files, petrol and chain oil can, and a couple of spare chains.

 

[PAC]

Ok, thanks for that Pete - might go for the 170 as my father has larger chainsaws, if I need to borrow them. If you have some spare safety gear I will definitely have it. Many thanks and I look forward to seeing you in a couple of weeks!