I only want to turn wood into dowel, otherwise round bars

[richard6299]

Hi. I've just bought an inexpensive lathe to turn wood into dowel. I've never done any wood turning before. My thinking is, I need only tools that will make dowel, and that I ought to buy tools of some decent quality. So, can anyone here please recommend some tools I coud buy that will do the job I am seeking to do and which are of pretty decent quality? No need to be of highest quality though. Thank you. Rich

EDIT: I think I need a roughing tool and a parting tool, and presumably another to make the dowel. Possibly then I strictly need three tools? I am assuming when you try to reach the diameter you are seeking, you exchange the roughing tool for another sort of tool.

 

[Etaf]

i'm sure you have a reason
also
you will need some outside callipers to check the diameter of the dowel, when i was making tools on a lathe - found really useful - but quite a few years ago now

toolstation sell 200 for 2.69
a little over penny each
or
you can buy dowell material in about 3' length fo just over a £1

I suspect the wood may cost more

 

[richard6299]

My first project is to make this jointing piece. Is this done entirely with the roughing tool? Or when I get near to the required diameter, do I choose another sort of tool? Because some precision is required. Thanks. Rich

 

[Alpha-Dave]

Short answer: yes, it’s possible. Buy a couple of 2.4m 44 mm square, planed timber from B&Q (£10 each), and turn it to the dimensions you need, you will get 14 per length. You may master it in half a dozen tries, or it may take you closer to 30. If you can’t do it by the end of 2x of those boards then you need a different method.

https://www.diy.com/departments/met...ck-timber-l-2-4m-w-44mm-t-44mm/1798351_BQ.prd
There are other tools that get better finishes (skew chisel), or remove material faster, or allow more complex shapes, but I would start with the roughing gouge.

Keep it sharp.

A parting tool may be useful for cleaning the ends or refining the shoulder of the join.

 

[JimTaylor]

If you are only turning dowels, You can do all the cutting with a spindle roughing gouge. The name does the gouge a disservice. You can get a very good finish and accurate dimensions with this one tool. Keep it sharp.
The roughing gouge will take your stock from square to round and turn down round stock to the diameter you want, it is more difficult to turn tight square shoulders on the dowels with the roughing gouge, but is possible.
To cut the shoulders on the drawing you can use a parting tool or a bedan ( wide parting tool) measure with calipers and creap up on your finished diameter.

 

[JimTaylor]

Just remember it will be more difficult to get a good finish on cheap pine than say ash or other harder woods, but with practice you can turn pine to a good finish.

 

[ScaredyCat]

How long/thick do you want your dowel? Would a dowel plate not be cheaper for this?

Just saw your other post saying 37mm - might be a bit big for a plate

 

[richard6299]

Hi. I've seen the odd beginner training video showing the usual tools used. The issue boils down to one of obtaining a certain precision in the diameter. Of course, when I see the roughing gouge used I assume (as a beginner might) it won't give me the precision I require, but I note comments above about that.. I'm trying to obtain an interference fit between the dowel / rod piece and the tube it's going to fit into. One wonders then if sanding down might be the way to have control over precision in this case. The wood I've got to hand is from crates that held heavy stones. It's reddish, very heavy. I'm concerned over achieving a rod that's parallel in it's sides. Not sure about that aspect given it's not an engineering lathe I'm using. Precision is what's on my mind.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

How many of these pieces do you need? That'll maybe influence how you do it.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You need to get the wood cleaned up and indoors drying or it's likely to distort after you've turned it.

 

[JimTaylor]

Getting your spindle parallel is all about practice, set your tool post parallel to the lathe bed, when you hold the gouge have your hand or a finger running along the tool post so that the gouge is running parallel as well. You can use the parting tool to cut to a depth of 37mm in several places and the join up the cuts with your roughing gouge.
If your wood is well over size try to get a 50mm dowel, then 45 and then 40.
So that when you get to your desired diameter you are more skilled. Do you have a local wood turning club nearby, they will be happy to help you.

 

[richard6299]

Hi. I'll probably make stuff other than pieces of dowel/ rods, it's just that at the moment I need to make this dowel-like piece. I see on YouTube that there are dowel-making jigs. I'd make one if I was minded to make lots of dowel of specific diameters, which I may or may not do. Definitely without a jig practice, practice, practice is going to be how I get parallel sides. I guess I've just got to get on with it and build the skill to be able to do that. As I see it, no-one is saying that it's not possible to get parallel sides without a jig. I'm not sure if a specific tool is better to use that lends itself to accuracy as to parallel sides. I got my lathe yesterday. I still need a set of cutting tools. I'm minded to choose a set in the £50 range, thinking in the long run that is the right thing to do. Not sure about a wood club. I live near Wakefield. My wood is in the house drying out. It's been inside for about one week.

 

[Agent_zed]

From my limited understanding one of the main tricks to making a parallel cut is to move your body not your hands. Get the cut going and then move your body smoothly in parallel to the lathe bed. Your leading hand will act as a guide against the tool rest.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Richard, get a copy of this -
https://www.turners-retreat.co.uk/woodturning-a-foundation-course/p1334
Loads available second hand, the newer ones have a DVD.
You need a spindle roughing gouge, a spindle gouge, a skew chisel and a parting tool. A bowl gouge is needed for bowls. You will not get anything decent for £50 a set.

 

[richard6299]

Here is the wood that I'd be using. It's light salmon pink colour. Obtained from a crate holding stone. Pretty dense. Anyone know what it is and will it present any problem cutting? I will be using square pieces, not this particular piece. Thanks.

 

[richard6299]

Given what's been said, can anyone please recommend a "starter" set of cutting tools that you would consider a decent set? I'm hoping to spend no more than say £120. Less if possible. Thanks. Rich EDIT: Maybe I should post this in tools section.

 

[G S Haydon]

I'm not an expert turner. When I had instruction last year I enjoyed using the Crown Cryo she had. I bought Crown 5 Piece Cryo Woodturning Tool Set as an addition to a lot of various cast steel skews.

There is a set of those Cryos as linked on eBay for just over £200.

 

[Jacob]

The older books are good. They tended to make do with less, and hence more essential kit.
e.g. Percy W Blandford "Woodturning" from a time slightly before the modern age of gadgets and over sold tools, so has lots of notes on how to do things without them.

 

[richard6299]

OK, I bit the bullet and ordered:

* CROWN SPINDLE GOUGE 10mm
* CROWN PARTING TOOL 6mm
* CROWN ROUGHING GOUGE 30MM / 19MM
* CROWN SKEW CHISEL 3/4 19 MM

That should do me for now. I think this thread is more-or-less finished. Thanks for assistance given. Rich

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Have you given any thought to sharpening these tools?