I am US at finishing

[dicktimber]

When I got my recent project cutting list together and visited my timber supplier I started sorting through his stock.
I purchased some 1" boards which planed up the same colour, but the 2" stock I bought for legs was the same type of timber but darker and less figured.
When I have constructed the piece I am making, although it is the same wood, Elm, the colours of the parts vary.

So, what should i do when i finish the part?

Mess about for hours trying to make all the parts the same colour with dye?
Just oil and wax it?

When you see bought furniture it's invariable one colour...not different shades...

What is the correct way to deal with this situation?

 

[Chris Knight]

It's entirely up to you - or the customer. A skilful finisher can match colours etc at the time he does them - hard to guarantee they stay like that though. Any finisher can slap on loads of coloured pigments and make things the same colour but then might as well use MDF.

Personally, I prefer if at all possible to let the natural wood show through whatever finish I use although of course at times this just won't do and them matching has to be done. For elm, given its innate character of interlocking grain etc. I'd like to leave it as it is. YMMV of course.

A reasonably dilute mixture of van Dyke crystals makes a handy darkening dye that will let the character of the timber come through and it is colourfast. Always test first on an offcut!!

 

[dicktimber]

Chris
Do the van dyke christals just act as a colour dye, and do they say bring lighter wood upto a darker colour?
You can tell I am just a step away from Danish oil on everything, after just a good sanding.

Can you talk me through finishing just an oil finish please...should I use grain filler, or not?
Then should I use a sanding sealer?

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Dick,

The Oak unit I built for a friend of mine recently had some quite varying colours of Oak in it. I spoke to him about it and he was happy with it, saying that he liked and understood that wood comes in all different shades and grain patterns etc.

I finished it with 3 coats of Chestnut finishing oil and a coat of mellow brown woodwax 22, which has a slight darkening effect. This deffinatly equalised the colours to an extent. The other option might be to add a spot of wood dye into the finishing oil to add a little colour.

Always best to test on an off cut first though!!

Cheers

Richard

 

[dicktimber]

That does look well!

I will give it a whirl on the cabinet i am making.

Where do you buy the darkened wax from?
Is this the same as bison wax which is very black although I have never used it, sticking to the traditional clear stuff.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Dick,

I used the Chestnut Woodwax 22 but Black Bison also do a range of colours. Something like their Antique Pine (which looks really brown in the can) gives a lovely sheen and only tints the timber slightly. I can order the chestnut wax but it would be a while as I have to make up an order and I have not long had a delivery!!

HTH

Richard

 

[dicktimber]

Richard
Don't worry.

Thanks for the help

 

[SP]

I agree with Chris and am of the school that variations in shade don't really matter and in fact contribute positively to the overall character of the piece.

Years ago I used to spend ages sorting cherry to avoid using any sap wood or dark tar marks but have found that when all is finished it looks ok and 6 months down the line it all sort of melds together.

I suppose it depends on the wood used and the requirements set by the client, but if it is for a client you would do well to promote the 'naturally occurring variations in colour' as it makes the job of choosing stock much easier.

Stephen

 

[SP]

I agree with Chris and am of the school that variations in shade don't really matter and in fact contribute positively to the overall character of the piece.

Years ago I used to spend ages sorting cherry to avoid using any sap wood or dark tar marks but have found that when all is finished it looks ok and 6 months down the line it all sort of melds together.

I suppose it depends on the wood used and the requirements set by the client, but if it is for a client you would do well to promote the 'naturally occurring variations in colour' as it makes the job of choosing stock much easier.

Stephen