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woody67

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.....box in a toilet? Please don't ask....but a workmate wants her toilet boxed in, infront of the cistern to the floor (hope piccy helps :oops: ) with tongue and groove.

My question is how do I get the profile of the toilet bowl so the t&g will butt up to it?

Toilet-01-450x450.jpg


Sorry for an such an inane question; my life is going down the pan! :wink:

Thanks

Mark :D
 
This is alot more difficult than it looks, primarily because you have to slot the tongue and groove boards together, which will always give you a gap the depth of the tongue at whichever end you finish. I have done this on a toilet and the best advice I can give is to start at the toilet and work outwards. If you are going over the top (ie infront of the cistern then you will liekly have a small gap when you do the other side as this will be equivalent to working from the outside in. From then on its a bit of trial and error to get the shape right. In the end I mocked up with a pencil line on a bit of T+G and cut the shape, noted where it didnt fit and adjusted on a new board and tried again until I got an acceptable fit. It wastes a few T+G boards, but they are very cheap.

One other thing to note is that you WILL need to get to the cistern at some point, usually just after you have finished the job. So do not nail all the boards in place, screw them and use cup washers so it doesnt look like a bodge job.

Two other tips - you could cut the tongue off the final board and 'place' it in position, but given toilet bowls are odd shapes this may not help much. you could also consider using T+G patterned MDF sheets rather than individual boards, but as most toilets are small I found manouvering the boards enough of a pain without going up to a sheet and trying to wiggle it into postiion. Also one mistake and its alot more expensive to replace a sheet.

HTH and good luck - its not a job to be rushed or for the faint hearted!

Steve.
 
Has she even considered the hygiene issues??

She needs a different pan that is designed to fit against a surface and use a boxed in cistern.


I'd avoid this job if I were you!

Bob
 
That looks like something that will go manky in next to no time. Is there no scope to change the pan (and cistern) for one that is designed to but up to a wall?

If not... I think you're going to spend a lot of time fettling a template.
 
9fingers":qdrbi2cl said:
Has she even considered the hygiene issues??

She needs a different pan that is designed to fit against a surface and use a boxed in cistern.


I'd avoid this job if I were you!

Bob

I've just helped someone rip out something similar in a flat he has just taken over :sick: :sick:
 
Like they said - change the pan. There are plenty of proper back to the wall ones around. I fitted one in our bathroom, with a commercially made cupboard, and even then there was very little room to fit it together.

You might be able to buy one without a front and make that to suit the decor.

The plumbing part of the job is a lot easier than it used to be with push-together connections and flexible pipes.

Andy
 
Not always possible to change the pan though - the one I did was a Victorian house and an old toilet where the waste outlet went out the side of the pan, not the back. On trying to source a replacement I was told they haven't been made for years like that and all toilets now have a back outlet in line with the pan. To change to one of these meant relocating the entire soil stack, which was bricked into the house wall :shock:

Steve
 
How is she going to flush the toilet? Or is it one of those energy saving toilets which don't require flushing :wink:
 
Blimey - Thanks all. Thought I would just get bog standard answers as I don't want to make a bum job of it ! :wink:

New toilet - No spare cash.

Flushing - Elongate the bar on the handle - I did this many moons ago (pardon the pun :oops: )

I was thinking of a hardboard backing to the t&g and as far as sanity goes - she doesn't want to know :shock:

Like's been said, trial and error methinks, but must press on, I've got that dresser to finish, for yet another workmate - bloomin' nurses eh? :wink:

Mark :D
 
If its going to be painted T&G then make it out of MR MDF and cut the grooves with a V bit in a router. More likely to stay together than single strips of T&G. It will be a fiddly job so make sure you charge time and a tird

You can buy longer lever handles for cisterns, though as others have said I would use a BTW pan and consealed cistern, should look something like this

Jason
 
in addition to the problems the others have highlighted - make sure she has easy access to the top of the cistern - for example if the ballcock jams down she or a plumber wont want to be faffing about getting the top off while the house floods.

I would suggest holding the false top down with magnetic catches.

I generally avoid doing work for workmates - as they never want to pay a decent price and if it all goes pearshaped they will be a lot harder to live with than a disgrunteled customer.......... says the man whos just agreed to make a table top for the mother in law :shock: I can give good advice - i just dont take it myself.
 
StevieB":3fllhmsc said:
Not always possible to change the pan though - the one I did was a Victorian house and an old toilet where the waste outlet went out the side of the pan, not the back. On trying to source a replacement I was told they haven't been made for years like that and all toilets now have a back outlet in line with the pan. To change to one of these meant relocating the entire soil stack, which was bricked into the house wall :shock:

Steve

Since the outlet on modern pans is horizontal, you can just swing the S-fitting plastic adaptor through 90 degrees so it goes out to left or right rather than straight down.

But to go back to the original query, a couple of points.
1. Really wouldn't do this, for reasons of hygiene and the "lid-up" problem (or is this some dreadful ploy on her part to stop blokes leaving the seat up???? :D .
2. If she insists, one way to make the template is to get a piece of stiffish card, cut out a hole that is definitely smaller than the shape needed, then make cuts into the remaining card at right angles to the cut. Push this up against the toilet, and then bend back the "tabs" so formed until you get a good fit. Then cut off along the folds.
 
jasonB":2ned9ju8 said:
make sure you charge time and a tird



Jason

Jason - I don't think for one minute that was a spelling mistake - you little trickster!! :wink:

I'd like to think my boxing in will turn out like yours, but I think I'll still have to cut a profile to match the bowl. Is this what you did? It doesn't look like it on the photo.

Thanks again all.

Mark :D
 
One more fly for the ointment. Sorry!

Watch out for problems with condensation on the cistern when full of cold water and a warm steamy bathroom. Perhaps stuff the void full of fibreglass?

Bob
 
Sorry, but this is one of those situations where stripping out and starting again is absolutely the best option. If she can't fund a BTW pan and concealed cistern, then to be frank she can't fund boxing-in around an existing close-coupled WC - it'll take just as long to do, if not longer, and arguably won't work out as well (no offense - if I was doing it it wouldn't work out as well...)

But if there's absolutely no choice, then I'd use the cardboard template method to get the right profile, be prepared to mock-up the profile in say, hardboard, then fab. it in MR MDF and route the groove in to suit the space you have. It's a lot of effort - and it'll still need plenty of silicone... ;)

Cheers, Pete
 
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