How would you fix this?

[rs6mra]

I have a couple of door handles that I need to repair but I haven’t clue how to tackle them. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[mwinfrance]

New door.

 

[Daniel2]

@rs6mra , could you post a photo further out also ?
So that we can see better the context.

 

[Spectric]

With cheaper hollow doors the handles do not normaly screw to the door but the two handles use fixings that screw them together, one side is like a tubular nut. If you get these type of fixings you just might salvage that job.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Handle-Fix...ocphy=9046727&hvtargid=pla-698003814619&psc=1
https://universal-hardware.co.uk/pr...andle-spare-parts/door-handle-screws-sleeves/

 

[Bingy man]

Looks like the door has been hung the wrong way round as there is usually a solid block for the handles.those in your photo appear to only be screwed into the face of the door . A plywood plate glued externally over the damaged area both sides , sanded and finished to match the existing door . Once dry re drill and fix handles . Or as per @mwinfrance new door .

 

[eribaMotters]

The circular plates on the handles are bolted through the door to each other. If you are to save the door you somehow need to stabilise the break out and stop it collapsing inwards when you bolt the handles into position. As a wild card approach I'd try some expanding foam in the hole and then attempt a re-fit. You might be lucky.

Colin

 

[Orraloon]

I agree with Bingy man. The door has been hung wrong way round. There should be a solid block (the lock block) where the knobs and lock go. I would just start with a new door and make sure the lock goes on the proper side. They dont cost a lot and it will save a lot of bu&&ering around. Last time I hung new doors they were actually marked which side to hang.
Regards
John

 

[ChaiLatte]

...you somehow need to stabilise the break out and stop it collapsing inwards...

Many door handles of the design above are supplied with two through bolts and two screws, so are fixed at 90 degree increments.

In the spaces between the fixings, he could glue in an 8mm or 10mm dowel, that is trimmed flush with both door faces. Then the screw pressure would bear onto the dowels.

 

[Bingy man]

I agree with Bingy man. The door has been hung wrong way round. There should be a solid block (the lock block) where the knobs and lock go. I would just start with a new door and make sure the lock goes on the proper side. They dont cost a lot and it will save a lot of bu&&ering around. Last time I hung new doors they were actually marked which side to hang.
Regards
John

Yep usually at the top of the door edge - it’s the 1st thing I look for -if it’s not marked I won’t hang them as you have a 50/50 chance of getting it wrong or right- that can easily wipe out any profit especially if you ruin several doors.

 

[HOJ]

Not wishing to contradict anyone about lock blocks, but, I fitted 6 new JeldWen doors on Saturday, allegedly "solid", and having also fitted 6 Deanta "solid" doors the week before, there were no markings to indicate the lock or hinge side in either case, and once I drilled through the edge lipping for the mortice latches, not much sign of "solid" either, more like soft chipboard, the new handles came with small wood screws and through screws as @Spectric linked to, which along with an allen key grub screw on the underneath of the handle that clamps onto the mortice shaft on either side, makes for a solid job of tying them together rather than relying on fixing to the door, whether you will need to mend the fabric of the door is difficult to tell from your picture.

 

[toolsntat]

Cheaper to buy another door if you are paying trade to fix it.

The way I do it on the 35mm hollow core doors is to insert FROM THE EDGE a block of mdf

Remove everything.
Very carefully cut away the material behind the whole latch recess.
Fashion a MDF block to fit snugly through hole and deep enough to reach past handle plates.
Using PU glue liberally coat the necessary areas.
Insert MDF block past door edge to leave a near enough recess for latch.
Put paper over screw holes etc. and apply block and clamps
Have brew and look at the others you didn't know needed doing
Refit latch and handles
Cheers, Andy

 

[rs6mra]

I’m out but here is another photo
To add there two more doors like this and they are fire doors !!!
Thanks for the responses

 

[Nail]

if they’re fire doors then I doubt they’re fire rated anymore….

 

[Nail]

if they’re fire doors then I doubt they’re fire rated anymore….

Couldn’t turn the bold off for some reason!

 

[mwinfrance]

I’m out but here is another photo
To add there two more doors like this and they are fire doors !!!
Thanks for the responses

What are the regs on a fire door these days in the UK..that looks like it is an el cheapo hollow interior door , not quite paper faced hardboard hollow with eggshell / honeycomb carton inner, but I would n't want to trust that in a fire.

 

[rs6mra]

The one in the photo isn’t a fire door but the others are and are of the same design

 

[Bingy man]

I replaced a door in my sons bedroom a few days ago ( wickes ) a cheap panel door, no thrills- the top edge of the door was clearly marked in bold LOCK-others I’ve fitted have had a more subtle marking of a small L (lock) sometimes when you read the instructions the lock block is marked with a series of small dots or a similar mark . It’s not uncommon for customers to remove the packaging and dispose of leaving you with the 50/50 situation of hanging the door the correct way or they have purchased the doors pre owned and again these marks may well have been planed off. Explaining this to the customer before you fit them will exonerate you when the handles come loose as in this case . If there is any doubt then as my previous post I don’t fit them .

 

[HOJ]

@Bingy man , you are talking about lightweight doors, hollow core, which should/will have lock blocks, I was just outlining that this isn't always the case, the ones I fitted were "solid" doors, as I said in my post, but not that solid, hence why I use the through bolt option rather than just rely on the tiny wood screws supplied.

 

[Doug71]

As @HOJ says it is surprising how soft the core of some solid doors are, there is no chance of the handles staying on for long if they aren't bolt through or don't have grub screws in.

You can normally tell which side the lock block is by gently tapping mid stile with a hammer, I always do this to double check as a few years ago I bought a batch of doors really cheap because some of them had the lock block marked on the wrong side.

 

[Doug71]

Would be handy to see a photo with the handle taken off.