So as not to hijack the other thread, this is just a thought that I always have when I'm adjusting wears, etc. I never got really good results fitting double iron planes until I had to make them. Now it's very easy to get a fine plane from England that is about $30 and make a plane that would provide someone a lifetime of jointing and panel preparing. I've gotten two English planes now with nearly unused Ward iron and Cap iron sets that I couldn't have bought the iron and cap for the same price (average of $50).
At any rate, what's curious to me is that in order to really get these planes working well so that dimensioning is essentially an easy operation that only requires sweat, has no risk of overshooting a depth mark to remove tearout (no matter the grain orientation), and where the shaving stays together so you can almost use one mark on one side of a board to thickness a panel accurately, just taking even strokes from left to right - anyway, runon sentence - in order to get a plane working that well, you have to understand it, and I don't get too many vintage planes that look like they were put away set up properly. There is no shortage, though, of planes that have been opened up improperly with a rasp or something ugly.
I don't have an unused example from the early 19th century to examine the planemaker's work, but many of the newer planes I've gotten needed a little bit of educated tweaking for them to work properly, and only a couple have had the leading edge of the cap iron worked into shape - it does work to stop tearout to some extent, even if the front edge is a little sloppy.
Warren Mickley, who goaded me into learning to use the cap iron - whether he knew he was doing it or not - mentioned that he'd had discussions with some people (now deceased) who had worked in the early 1900s and described themselves as experts on hand planing, but they had no clue about using the cap iron and one of them told him that once an iron is set too deep, you can do nothing other than take the wedge out and start over.
All of this leads me to the following bunch of facts:
* people were paying extra for the double iron, even though catalogs were filled with single iron options - those single iron options didn't sell well
* not many of the planes come to me in shape to plane without choking - one griffiths plane and one mathieson plane have passed that test. Another 20 planes, none did unless they had already been ruined by being opened too much
* Often the wear needs to be relieved to make things work with the cap that comes with the plane. Opening the mouth a little doesn't solve the problem. Opening it a lot (and making a garish mouth) usually will.
* I've never seen any evidence on any of my planes that a user adjusted the wear instead of the mouth, including on planes where setting the cap close caused a clog (and presumably that was never fixed). Small wear adjustment is usually superior to any mouth adjustment.
Is Warren's assertion correct, that even by the late 1800s, most of the users were fairly incompetent as far as getting the true potential out of planes? As well as these planes work when the cap iron is set - it's really a night and day thing - why don't we see more that are set up properly when they are put away?
I am guessing that in the era most of my planes were made, people had already gone to relying on machine planers for most of the work, and most didn't know how to properly adjust their planes, and they probably didn't care, either, as they were no longer heavily used. I think they also didn't use the cap iron for the most part, even though they paid extra to get it. That's certainly the case in the US. On top of that in the US, Stanley pretty much wiped out the wooden plane - there are accounts in the US at least of craftsmen burning their wooden planes and cheering once they got metal planes with an adjuster. No way they'd have done that if they did a significant amount of dimensioning, as you can sense the increased effort with a metal jointer within a matter of five minutes.
At any rate, what's curious to me is that in order to really get these planes working well so that dimensioning is essentially an easy operation that only requires sweat, has no risk of overshooting a depth mark to remove tearout (no matter the grain orientation), and where the shaving stays together so you can almost use one mark on one side of a board to thickness a panel accurately, just taking even strokes from left to right - anyway, runon sentence - in order to get a plane working that well, you have to understand it, and I don't get too many vintage planes that look like they were put away set up properly. There is no shortage, though, of planes that have been opened up improperly with a rasp or something ugly.
I don't have an unused example from the early 19th century to examine the planemaker's work, but many of the newer planes I've gotten needed a little bit of educated tweaking for them to work properly, and only a couple have had the leading edge of the cap iron worked into shape - it does work to stop tearout to some extent, even if the front edge is a little sloppy.
Warren Mickley, who goaded me into learning to use the cap iron - whether he knew he was doing it or not - mentioned that he'd had discussions with some people (now deceased) who had worked in the early 1900s and described themselves as experts on hand planing, but they had no clue about using the cap iron and one of them told him that once an iron is set too deep, you can do nothing other than take the wedge out and start over.
All of this leads me to the following bunch of facts:
* people were paying extra for the double iron, even though catalogs were filled with single iron options - those single iron options didn't sell well
* not many of the planes come to me in shape to plane without choking - one griffiths plane and one mathieson plane have passed that test. Another 20 planes, none did unless they had already been ruined by being opened too much
* Often the wear needs to be relieved to make things work with the cap that comes with the plane. Opening the mouth a little doesn't solve the problem. Opening it a lot (and making a garish mouth) usually will.
* I've never seen any evidence on any of my planes that a user adjusted the wear instead of the mouth, including on planes where setting the cap close caused a clog (and presumably that was never fixed). Small wear adjustment is usually superior to any mouth adjustment.
Is Warren's assertion correct, that even by the late 1800s, most of the users were fairly incompetent as far as getting the true potential out of planes? As well as these planes work when the cap iron is set - it's really a night and day thing - why don't we see more that are set up properly when they are put away?
I am guessing that in the era most of my planes were made, people had already gone to relying on machine planers for most of the work, and most didn't know how to properly adjust their planes, and they probably didn't care, either, as they were no longer heavily used. I think they also didn't use the cap iron for the most part, even though they paid extra to get it. That's certainly the case in the US. On top of that in the US, Stanley pretty much wiped out the wooden plane - there are accounts in the US at least of craftsmen burning their wooden planes and cheering once they got metal planes with an adjuster. No way they'd have done that if they did a significant amount of dimensioning, as you can sense the increased effort with a metal jointer within a matter of five minutes.