How to use a stacked dado?

[custard]

would you not use a fairly hefty featherboard clamped to the fence to hold the stock down?

Bob, a feather board would be fine for a rebate, but not so good for a groove or a housing.

 

[DennisCA]

I would build a sled or jig of some kind with clamps to hold the boards down and incorporates some kind of blade guard of it's own, as well as a dedicated dado sled for shorter pieces. Or do it in several passes.

I'll probably get a dado in the future, since I am probably buying a woodford Xcalibur saw, and I am thinking of how to do it safer than what is commonly shown.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I can't comment on the Woodford dado set although I do have a couple of dado sets.The 5/8" versions shipped from the States and find them very useful. I have a Forrest sets and a Freud set which are quality items.

I did however make inquiries with the proprietor of Woodford saws regarding some kit I was after. He made a few promises regards obtaining the items but despite leaving several message for him afterwards I didn't hear from him again. Kinda told me a lot about the guy.

I also have a mate who visited his unit to buy a tablesaw from him. At that time much of his kit was stored in pig pens. I was also informed he ( the proprietor) was a bit of an odd character?

That said my buddy is pleased with the saw.

David

 

[Myfordman]

How to get it right first time with a dado set.
I've drawn up a table on paper which I keep in the box with the blades
Fit just the two outer blades and do a few test cuts and measure the the average width of the dado cut.
This is the minimum width (obviously) you can cut.
Remember each chipper widens the dado by the thickness of the BODY of the chipper not the width of the tip.

Make a table of all the combination of widths you can cut with blades and chippers.
Then make a second table of the thickness of the shims in combination.

When you want to cut a certain size dado, look for the greatest width in table 1 that is LESS than you want and then add shims from table 2 until you get the width or a fraction wider.
Fit the head and the cut will be right first time. I still do a test cut but there is no fiddling about adding/subtracting shims.

Here is my table - your dimensions will vary



Works for me
MM

 

[pcb1962]

I would build a sled or jig of some kind with clamps to hold the boards down and incorporates some kind of blade guard of it's own, as well as a dedicated dado sled for shorter pieces

Hmm, so when you get a kickback you get a sled thrown at you as well as the workpiece
A sled will reduce or eliminate the likelihood of a kickback caused by skewing the workpiece into the rising teeth of the blade, but as I understand it from Scrit's excellent post there are other potential causes of kickback when using a dado set, such as knots and voids.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I would build a sled or jig of some kind with clamps to hold the boards down and incorporates some kind of blade guard of it's own, as well as a dedicated dado sled for shorter pieces

Hmm, so when you get a kickback you get a sled thrown at you as well as the workpiece
A sled will reduce or eliminate the likelihood of a kickback caused by skewing the workpiece into the rising teeth of the blade, but as I understand it from Scrit's excellent post there are other potential causes of kickback when using a dado set, such as knots and voids.

It's actually surprisingly difficult to achieve kick back using a dado set.

If you use a sliding jig for example then you tend to have both hands on the jig/sled. Kick back, in my experience (I've had one) tends to be the part not being held or secured. It's not to say a reaction cannot occur but an unsecured part I am told leaves the saw at approx 100mph.

 

[DennisCA]

I would think kickback would be quite difficult to achieve, or it would not be as severe if it does happen when you have a proper grip on a whole sled even if things go awry.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

How to get it right first time with a dado set.
I've drawn up a table on paper which I keep in the box with the blades
Fit just the two outer blades and do a few test cuts and measure the the average width of the dado cut.
This is the minimum width (obviously) you can cut.
Remember each chipper widens the dado by the thickness of the BODY of the chipper not the width of the tip.

Make a table of all the combination of widths you can cut with blades and chippers.
Then make a second table of the thickness of the shims in combination.

When you want to cut a certain size dado, look for the greatest width in table 1 that is LESS than you want and then add shims from table 2 until you get the width or a fraction wider.
Fit the head and the cut will be right first time. I still do a test cut but there is no fiddling about adding/subtracting shims.

Here is my table - your dimensions will vary



Works for me
MM

Very useful myfordman. My reference guide for my dado set is becoming a tad worn thus becoming more difficult to read. I'll print a copy off and pin it to the wall adjacent the saw.

Nice one

David

 

[DennisCA]

This set is looking interesting to me, but $$$, will probably go the cheap route first
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD608-8-Inc ... B000089H8P

 

[Bluekingfisher]

If you decide to go the economy route you could buy this one.http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SDS-0842-8 ... =dado+sets

I bought it about 2-3 years years ago as my sister was posted in the States at the time so I was able to benefit from the cheaper US/£ prices and the domestic shipping rates provided for MOD staff.

Anyway, I haven't actually gotten around to using it yet although it looks good quality and it received good reviews hence my decision to purchase. It work out at about £45 shipped at the time.

David

 

[DennisCA]

Haha you bought it 2-3 years ago and still haven't used it? Maybe if it's still unused in a few years you can sell it to me.

 

[alan895]

I bought the Delta / Dewalt 7670 dado set from the US, £110 all in including the import charge. Very happy with it.

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Haha you bought it 2-3 years ago and still haven't used it? Maybe if it's still unused in a few years you can sell it to me.

That's because I am still using the two other sets and getting good results, at some point however I'll load up the Oshlun stack for a comparison.

The only down side I can see so far is the fact it comes in a cardboard box while the others come in a blow moulded or Ali box. Not a big problem of course because they are ideal for making finger joint boxes.

Also, I can't recall if the Oshlun set comes with shims, I have a couple of spare sets but if you decide to buy from the US ensure the set comes with shims or if they don't buy them at the time because I haven't found a source for them this side of the pond. Not sure the availability in the land of the Fins though either:?: